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#1
03-22-2007, 04:42 PM
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70 RAIV Blocks - WW or SR??
I have a SR block for my car, but lately I am thinking of getting a WW block instead.
If you car is missing the original block, which block you will rather use if they both are readiy available? WW non-matching number or SR block? Also, if you were to buy a car, which is more correct and worth more to you?? |
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#2
03-22-2007, 04:57 PM
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I just recently went down this road. My car is missing the original block (455 HO block) and had access to both SR or correct coded WM block. I went with the correct coded, non matching number block. EITHER block will be a NON matching block. People who know the RAIV's and the 455 HO's KNOW what code the block is supposed to be. I always check when I see them at car shows. If I see an SR block, I know it's not the original block, doesn't mean it's incorrect. I wanted the correct code for my car because that is what I like to see when I look under the hood. People wont know it's not the original block unless I tell them or they have read this post
 . I don't typically see people crawling on the ground to get a look at the VIN stamping to see if it matches AND I'd better not see anyone crawling on my car to get a peek at the date code by the dist....it just doesn't happen. Which is worth more? That will vary with each buyer. To me, neither are "correct" as the original block is long gone. And for me, buying a non matching block, I'd rather see original coded block in there than an SR, That would hold more value for me than an SR. JMHO.
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Pat Brown |
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#3
03-23-2007, 01:07 PM
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Your car could have got an SR engine from GM but never a block with another cars VIN#. JMO
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`70 GTO, 370 hp, 3:90, TH400. |
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#4
03-23-2007, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
For my money, a correct coded and dated block is the next best thing to original. SR is overrated.
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69 Judge, SURVIVOR, Carousel Red/Parchment, RAIII, 4-sp, 63k orig. miles, unrestored, #'s match 65 GTO, SURVIVOR, Tri-Power, 4-sp, 79k orig. miles, Capri Gold, orig. paint, top, interior, #'s match 70 GTO Conv, 400, at, A/C, Atoll Blue/Sandlewood/White top, all #'s match 2015 Challenger R/T Plus, hemi, Sublime |
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#5
03-23-2007, 02:35 PM
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I would go Correct Code/Correct date
Correct Code/too early date Correct Code/too late date SR block (unless a freak correct date SR then I'd place it equal to #2 and #3.) JMO |
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#6
03-23-2007, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
If Your car after a couple of months back i the 69-70 blow the engine and got an SR engine on the warranty I would say it´s as close to matching# You can get. If You change that cars SR engine today to an engine from another car would that make the car more correct and more matching? Not to me!
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`70 GTO, 370 hp, 3:90, TH400. |
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#7
03-23-2007, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
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1970 Formula 400 Carousel Red paint on Black standard interior A no-engine, no-transmission, no-wheel option car. Quite likely one of few '70 Muncie three speed Formula 400's left. 1991 Grand Am: 14.4 @ 93.7mph (DA corrected) (retired DD, stock appearing) 2009 Cobalt SS: 13.9 @ 103mph (current DD; makes something north of 300hp & 350ft/lbs) |
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#8
03-23-2007, 05:28 PM
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Only way I'd agree with that is IF you had genuine paper work backing it up that this happened under warranty. Very few have this documentation where this actually happened and any way you slice it, still, not the original engine.
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Pat Brown |
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#9
03-23-2007, 11:08 PM
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SR hands down.
I wouldnt buy a NOM in a car but wouldnt think twice about a SR. SRs were supposed to have been stamped at dealer with original VIN I beleive after warranty or dealer service install. Part of warranty tracking. VIN stamped SR is right up there with a stammped #s block, not quite the same but much better then a NOM. A unstamped SR would be next best, as it has been said some didnt get punched at dealers for whatever reason. Ive seen some old timers say they sometimes didnt do because puch kit was somewhere else in shop being used or just plain forgot. ***Cardinal Red, If you decide to sell the SR let me know. Last edited by JLHarper; 03-23-2007 at 11:17 PM. |
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#10
03-24-2007, 09:32 AM
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Have to disagree, SR shortblocks should contribute next to no value W/O a stack of correct paperwork, noting the original installation by the dealership. Under warranty, this paperwork will include correspondence & authorization of the zone office. Its not just a simple reciept from the dealership service dept or parts dept. The instances I've run across of true dealer-warranty installation of an SR, all contained the zone correspondence.
Without this paperwork, all one has is an SR that someone has bought & installed. Too many times, a rare NOM vehicle is bought, an SR shortblock is sourced, owner installs, then when it comes time to sell the vehicle, the OUTRIGHT LIE is made or inferred that the SR shortblock was dealer installed when the original engine blew up. Total BS, only done to buoy the price of the rare vehicle upon sale. Last, even with a correctly documented SR, the vehicle takes a hit in value, due to original block/shortblock being missing. |
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#11
03-24-2007, 10:08 AM
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Well put, OPH. The SR stories rank right up there with the "428 swapped in at the dealership" nonsense. Unless accompanied by legitimate paperwork (and rest assured, there is no such paper work for 95%+ of the SR block-mobiles out there), the SR block is no better than a mid-70's Y5 400 block.
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69 Judge, SURVIVOR, Carousel Red/Parchment, RAIII, 4-sp, 63k orig. miles, unrestored, #'s match 65 GTO, SURVIVOR, Tri-Power, 4-sp, 79k orig. miles, Capri Gold, orig. paint, top, interior, #'s match 70 GTO Conv, 400, at, A/C, Atoll Blue/Sandlewood/White top, all #'s match 2015 Challenger R/T Plus, hemi, Sublime Last edited by GTOnly70; 03-24-2007 at 10:14 AM. |
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#12
03-24-2007, 11:09 AM
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It would be more plausible to have a SR then a block with another VIN installed. With or without warranty paperwork.
If person had paperwork, and block was code and vin stamped as I have read was supposed to have been done, then this would be the highest pedigree short of original block, IMO. I understand your point, but one thing is for sure: A SR might be fake, and never dealer installed, but a NOM for sure is. |
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#13
03-24-2007, 11:51 AM
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Totaly agree with You JLHarper, especially the last line! To bad the people back then didn´t know that these cars would bring a lot of money today and saved all the papers....
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`70 GTO, 370 hp, 3:90, TH400. |
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#14
03-24-2007, 03:47 PM
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Lots of good points here on both sides......I think JLHarper's last statement has convinced me that I should just stick with the SR block. You could argue that a SR block might have installed by the dealer, but a non matching number WW block can't be disputed. Thanks.
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#15
03-24-2007, 06:22 PM
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Something else to consider is the cost of a WW block if you can find one. Those go for a premium even when they have issues.
If you do find one......and hope like hxxx it's not someone's restamp from 10 years ago..... you'll still be paying top $$$ for a NOM for your car. |
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#16
03-24-2007, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
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Some guys they just give up living And start dying little by little, piece by piece, Some guys come home from work and wash up, And go racin' in the street. Bruce Springsteen - Racing In The Street - 1978 |
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#17
03-26-2007, 09:44 AM
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You only have the original motor once!
In my opinion (whatever that is worth), without the original engine (and the ORIGINAL VIN stamp being intact), the car's value is dramatically reduced.
Even a SR, with all the proper documentation, it is no longer the original engine. To me, a NOM is a NOM is a NOM. SR or correct code are no different than any old Pontiac engine being under the hood. Don't expect you all to agree, but that is my line of thought. Gary
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So many toys, so little time  '06 GTO, '68 LeMans project, bikes, etc. |
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#18
03-26-2007, 02:43 PM
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I would go with a SR. Thats what the dealer would have put in if it had a problem.
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#19
03-26-2007, 05:12 PM
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I agree with the statements that say once the original stove is gone, it's gone. Nowdays, do what you can to find a correct code, or a decent SR. My SR is dated before the car was built, and has the SR and some sort of serial number down below by the timing cover. It was the best I could do, and I prefered not to have some other car's VIN on my engine and a stamped WS was going to cost me a whole bunch more......and I still don't have the original. I worry more about proving I have a real Judge, but that's another thread.
Funny how we can fuss over this, but you could have a RAlV frame, numbers drivetrain and a firewall complete with the VIN tag, replace everything else, and be better off than the survivor car with a different mill. I just wanna drive mine and have girls turn their heads!
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"Drive a GTO".......Iggy Pop-Lust for Life Last edited by peppergreen; 03-26-2007 at 07:01 PM. |
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#20
03-26-2007, 05:13 PM
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I agree with the statements that say once the original stove is gone, it's gone. Nowdays, do what you can to find a correct code, or a decent SR. My SR is dated before the car was built, and has the SR and some sort of serial number down below by the timing cover. It was the best I could do, and I prefered not to have some other car's VIN on my engine and a stamped WS was going to cost me a whole bunch more......and I still don't have the original. I worry more about proving I have a real Judge, but that's another thread.
Funny how we can fuss over this, but on a numbers car, you can replace the fenders, interior, suspension, glass, you name it, and be OK.
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"Drive a GTO".......Iggy Pop-Lust for Life |
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