[tikiklubracing]

I'm putting in the ford solenoid to help starting. Does any one have a schematic or diagram or instructions on how to wire it properly.

[tikiklubracing]

geee I thought someone would help me for a change.

[LPete]

Depends if you have the kind with one small terminal or two. If you have two, one is for the power to pull in the solenoid, and the other would be an ignition resistor bypass. You only need the first terminal.

Hook the start wire from the ignition switch to the small terminal on the relay. Hook one big post to battery power, and the other to the starter in place of the start wire from the ignition switch. The solenoid body has to be grounded to work -- one end of the coil is hooked to the bracket.

Make sense? The ideal is to get more current to the solenoid on the starter. Use big wire, like 10 or 12 gauge.

[Jack Ferris]

You have PM

[60man]

What Pete said and I will add that I had to make a "jumper wire" for my mini-starter. Jump from big terminal (battery lug) to small activation terminal on starter..no big deal..That wire (from switch) will wind up on the solenoid
The Ferd part seems to help !!

[gtofreek]

Originally Posted by 60man

What Pete said and I will add that I had to make a "jumper wire" for my mini-starter. Jump from big terminal (battery lug) to small activation terminal on starter..no big deal..That wire (from switch) will wind up on the solenoid
The Ferd part seems to help !!

You can only do this if you run a 2 or 4 gauge cable from the Ford relay to the solenoind on the starter. But then you would have to rewire the whole starter circuit and relocate the wires off the solenoid hot post. The way that LPETE was explaining simply reroughts the purple start wire. He mentioned running a 10 or 12 guage wire to the solenoid start post[which is fine for what he's describing] and if Tikiklubracing does what you say, the starter will crank as soon as the battery is hooked up. Personally I like the way you are trying to describe as it leaves no hot wires at the starter when the starter is not cranking. The way LPETE was describing is simpler and easier for someone to do.

[screamingchief]

But then you would have to rewire the whole starter circuit and relocate the wires off the solenoid hot post.

Personally I like the way you are trying to describe as it leaves no hot wires at the starter when the starter is not cranking.

That's the whole reason for doing this.

Gets rid of hot wires running down to the starter where the heat increases the resistance within the wires,also drastically reduces the chance of the insulation melting and shorting out the wiring.

You can only do this if you run a 2 or 4 gauge cable from the Ford relay to the solenoind on the starter.

I advise 2 ga. battery cables minimum,I really prefer 0 ga. as the "better" first choice (have used 00 welding cable for those "tough ones" too),and please no cheap autoparts store "generic" cables,only fine strand pure copper with crimped and soldered lugs,no cheap clamp on battery terminals either,they allow too much resistance in the cable,they also corrode easily.

Also dont overlook the ground side of this either.

It's all real easy to do.

Any wires that run to the S or R terminal on the "original" starter solenoid go to the corresponding S & R terminal on the "new" ford solenoid,any terminals that run to the the large "hot" battery terminal on the "original" starter solenoid go to the "hot" or "battery" side of the new ford solenoid,a jumper is then run from the large battery cable terminal on the "original" starter solenoid to the S terminal on the same,and yes you will need to get new battery cables to do this correctly.

Do make the cable between the battery and the ford solenoid as short as possible,this reduces the voltage drop and lessens the chance of a short in the positive battery cable as well.

Depending on the starter being used here,the jumper can be done several different ways,but the most basic is a simple short 10ga. jumper wire with crimped,soldered,and heatshrink terminals.

For OE style GM starters theres also a one piece metal jumper available.

And yes the battery cable & starter is "cold" until the key is turned to crank the car...

And the ford solenoid mounting bracket does need to be grounded as stated earlier here.

With this set-up you'll also have a lot easier time hooking up a remote starter switch for bumping the engine over when working on the car.

I've been doing this since the late eightees,to the derision of most all those who observed me doing so,funny thing is they were also the same ones who wondered why I never had the problems they had...

The same ones who asked how me to do this on their own cars.

I saved some diagrams somewhere from an article online,if you want them lemme know,I'll dig 'em up and post them.

[b-man]

Here are a couple of links that might be helpful:

http://www.chevelles.com/techref/tecref4.html

http://home.comcast.net/~69bird3/jhandracing19.htm

[60man]

Mine was easy...
Just removed battery cable from junction block on fender well and attached to hot side of Ford solenoid and removed the "purple wire" from starter and placed on "S" terminal...Then ran jumper wire from starter battery terminal to "S" terminal on starter. Used the short existing 0 cable (that was on J block) on cold side of solenoid to starter..When juice hits mini starter the jumper wire activates it.
Very simply install. Solenoid just replaced the J block...I used O gauge cables and 10 G jumper...

[Dragncar]

Just like 60man wrote.I have been using one on my GTO for years.The idea is to get rid of some causing so much resistance and to get rid of that freaking purple wire runing all the way down to the starter.
The purple wire shorting out on the tube running between the headers on the staring line,durring eliminations,IN the fourth round was the last straw.
It is also nice to be able to tap the engine over with a screwdriver doing valve ajustments.Yeah I know I should install a start button under the hood but it works.