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#1
11-26-2006, 08:00 PM
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Dowel pin removal
Could anyone please tell me the different ways to remove the factory pressed in dowel pins, so I can install adjustable pins to compensate for runout? I hav a '70's block and am using the factory bell housing w/TKO 600 transmission. Thanks in advance for any info I might receive.
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#2
11-26-2006, 08:28 PM
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Block still in the car or out? I tried to get mine out in the car, no dice. Next time I had the block out I had machine shop yank them.
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  1967 Firebird ragtop, 464, Weiand 8-71, ported 6H heads, Hyd roller, 4L80E, paddle shifter, Moser 9", Cal-Tracs, Vintage Air, Corbeau seats, 13"/12" disk brakes, Hydraboost, electric cutouts and M&H drag radials. 
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#3
11-26-2006, 08:34 PM
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You're talking about the bellhousing dowels, right?
Two good ways: 1) drill into them then use a slide hammer that grabs self-tapping screws. Be sure to use a good sized screw! If that fails (or just do this first) 2) Drill completely through dowel. Install a zerk fitting in the hole and use a grease gun to hydraulically push the dowel out from behind.
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---------------------------- '72 Formula 400 Lucerne Blue, Blue Deluxe interior - My first car! '73 Firebird 350/4-speed Black on Black, mix & match. |
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#4
11-27-2006, 12:24 AM
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i soaked them with pb then used vice grips
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70 GTO 462 E-Heads TKO-600 9-Inch/3.60's |
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#5
11-27-2006, 04:08 AM
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I've only had to remove one using Will's method. After a small thermonuclear device failed to loosen the dowel, I drilled, tapped, screwed in a zerk and marveled at the power of hydraulic pressure. It was all I could do the move the lever on a big grease gun. It slowly, slowly slid the dowel all the way out.
I think the old "weld a nut on the end" solution would have been quicker as the act of welding the nut on creates a heat and cool down cycle to break the bond between the dowel and block just like it does a stuck bolt. The fact that you can nearly remove a stuck bolt by hand after welding a bolt or nut on it tells me its the heat that does the trick more than having attached something to put a wrench on. |
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#6
09-17-2007, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
i was a bit nervous about drilling the psgr side, as the oil passage to the filter is right behind the dowel in the block. but, when the end of the dowel was reached, i could feel it pop through before getting to the block. thx for the tip! |
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#7
09-17-2007, 02:58 PM
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I used the drill, tap, and thread a bolt method. I used a 3/8-16 bolt after drilling and tapping the dowel. Be VERY careful when drilling. Not so much about drilling into the block but breaking off the bit in the dowel. This happened to me on the second dowel. First one went like clock work. It will be evident when you are through the dowel. I started drilling a small hole and got progressivly bigger until I had the right sise to tap for a 3/8-16 bit.
Good luck!!!
__________________
67 Firebird Convert 455 +.060 TH400 74cc KRE d-ports piston dished 16cc H-beam rods Comp Cam 305-AH-8 cam 108* LSA 253/260 @.050 duration .577/.594 lift w/1.65 rockers Ford 9" 3.50 Detroit Locker M/T Sportsman Radials 31x18x15 on Convo Pro 15x15s |
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