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The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#1
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I just had some fenders and doors sandblasted to put on my 65 cat. Question is is there anything special I need to do to these other than a primer and paint
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#2
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I just had some fenders and doors sandblasted to put on my 65 cat. Question is is there anything special I need to do to these other than a primer and paint
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#3
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If the fenders are in bare metal . First use a self etching primer . Then use epoxy primer , followed by a ureathane primer . Make sure you allow enough drying time in between applications . Especially with the epoxy primer .
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Man is not complete until he's married , then he is finished ! |
#4
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Thanks for the input Jim. Are these primers available anywhere or are they a special order type and if so where can I order? ANY SPECIAL BRANDS i SHOULD LOOK FOR?
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#5
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We use PPG 401 Epoxy/Self etching. Then just go witn the Urathane Primer, PPG 93
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Outlaw Pontiac Racers Association "For Those Who Live The Legend" www.outlawpontiacs.com |
#6
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You can purchase the primers at any automotive paint supply store . Personally I like the Dupont paint line . Purchase what you feel comfortable with . All the paint systems of today work well . Not like the paint systems of yesterday . However be warned ....they are NOT cheap !
__________________
Man is not complete until he's married , then he is finished ! |
#7
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Thanks for the help Somehow I just knew not cheap would find its way into this subject but costs dont matter if you want a nice job
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#8
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The two main paint co. here in the states are, ppg,& dupont,guys here in ca.have gone with the house of color,since before gtos were here,from germany,sikens,& glassarot, if you really need sticker shock,as far as cost goes the products made here,are just fine,i feel luckey to still be able to buy the stuff.
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#9
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If you are spraying any "catalyzed" primers, sealers, or paints, realize that they contain isocyanates, and they can kill you if you breath the stuff in, of get too much on your skin. It absorbs through your eyes and skin, and "catalyzes" in your lungs. There were lawsuits filed against paint companies over this, and many people have become ill from catalyzed paints. A common dual filter respirator will NOT stop all the chemicals from coming in. What you really need is a supplied air mask or hood, nitrile gloves, coveralls. VERY NASTY STUFF.
If you can paint outside, you can get away with a standard dual cartridge mask, but I'd still use coveralls and some type of head and eye coverage. But then you also risk getting a lot of dirt or dust in the paint. Another option is a downdraft paint booth to take away all the overspray. A gravity feed, HVLP gun also helps, less overspray, and saves money too with better coverage. More paint goes on the car, rather than getting wasted as airborne overspray. [This message has been edited by zedo (edited 11-24-2001).] |
#10
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Jim D., couldn't the epoxy be put on as the last undercoat, so it acts like a sealer ?? Then basecoat on that ??
I hear you on the cost, I just dropped $105 for 2K self etch, and another $170 on urethane primer and epoxy with catalysts. And also another $15 for lacquer thinner for cleanup. And I didn't even get to the color yet !! [This message has been edited by zedo (edited 11-24-2001).] |
#11
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Zedo ,
You can use epoxy primer as a sealer if you like . I like to use it after the self etching primer is applied . It seals out moisture getting to the bare metal . Urathane primer will not seal out moisture .
__________________
Man is not complete until he's married , then he is finished ! |
#12
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Zedo, thanks for the heads up on dying while painting a usefull tip. I can still do this outside and will take precautions. What about the Por 15 tie coat primer it is a polyurethane primer ?
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#13
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You can tell if a paint is an ISO catalyzed paint, by reading the label on the catalyst. It will say contains isocyanates on it.
Jim, I actually have a little indecision myself concerning how/if to use epoxy at all on my GTO. It as been blasted to bare metal and etch primed. It has some dents that need to be filled, then finished in urethane primer. I'm toying with the idea of then sealing the whole car with reduced epoxy primer-then topcoating that. This should seal in all the bodywork and provide a flat un-porous surface for the topcoats. There's other considerations, i..e bondo can't be put over etch primer. So I either have to lay down epoxy or urethane primer first, to give the bondo grip. Or grind off the etch where the dents are, and lay the bondo on bare metal. FWIW, the Transtar paint rep told me that if I use urethane primer/filler, I don't need the epoxy. But a PPG authorized painter said, lay down epoxy over the etch, fill dents, fill pinholes and sandscratches with urethane primer/filler. Then re-epoxy the whole car to seal it. That makes sense, too. Jim, do you have any experience with the high-build polyester 2-part primer fillers ?? I hear they really fill fast, but have never tried them. Supposedly they fill 80 grit sandscratches !! |
#14
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High build 2 part primers work great . Yes they can fill 80 grit scratches , but can sink out after a while . I would only go 180 or better .
Transtar ???? I don't know to much about them . However for excellent results and longevity go with a Major paint system .
__________________
Man is not complete until he's married , then he is finished ! |
#15
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I bought the self etching primer yesterday Called around first and couldnt believe the difference in price between paint stores varying nearly $60 a quart. Ended up with Dupont Nason Waiting for warmer weather to shoot it
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#16
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Don't use alot of the self etching primer . One medium coat is all that is needed . What primer are you going to use on top of the self etching primer ???
__________________
Man is not complete until he's married , then he is finished ! |
#17
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Jim, I got the 5 star acrylic laquer primer. When I buy the base coat what kind should I get I figured I will need the best for that. This is the iris mist for the 65 also clear coat what brand should I use for that. I wont be the painter for this car. Sometimes I do really good painting and sometimes I dont. Guess practise makes perfect But I want this car to look good and last By the way thanks for your help
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#18
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Zedo, et al-
You can use other brands of plastic body filler that are designed to be applied over your protective primer coat. Rage lays down really nicely and generic Poly Putty (your region of the country will have it under varying names) also does an outstanding job. Primers? There's only one type of primer for me- lacquer primer/surfacer. Unfortunately, the EPA outlawed this stuff many years back. There are other types that are superior for their niche style, but none can compare when it comes to application/sandability/surface build/ease of clean up/etc. Although it would allow water to penetrate it if left out in the elements. Good luck w/ you projects! ------------------ John
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John IG: @crawdaddycustoms YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCK9...Nc_lk1Q/videos |
#19
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Talk it over with your painter and decide what's best for you . Just don't mix products . If you use a Dupont basecoat use their clear . The same would be for PPG , Sikkens etc . Good Luck .
__________________
Man is not complete until he's married , then he is finished ! |
#20
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I just got the fenders and doors primered yesterday when we finally got back into the 70 s The etching primer is caustic moixing or spraying All parts look good will replace when I get some more time Thanks everyone for their help
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