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#1
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Well I just had my new baby delivered today - a 1966 GTO hardtop w/the original WS code tripower engine and M20 4speed. I'd like some advice from the experienced on how to keep this car purring.
All the available documentation and owner history shows it to have 45,500 original miles. I don't think the engine has ever been modified as the heads, intake, carbs and block are all correct after exhaustive research. I've had several muscle cars but never a GTO or GM car and never one this original. I consider myself pretty competent with a wrench - but I want to keep this car forever so I want to treat it right My first (of many) questions is what oil should I use on this engine assuming it is the original motor and miles? I live in Atlanta and it gets steamy hot in the summer. My original owner's manual says straight SAE 30 for the summer and 5W20 for below freezing. Do you think this would still be right for a 36 year old engine? I drove it for the first time today and the oil pressure is about 35-40 at idle & goes up to 60+ at cruising speed. The (oil press) needle twitches some at idle but never goes below 30. I will eventually pull the oil pan and valve cover to see how things look inside but just want to start out with a fresh oil change before I drive it any. Have ordered a shop manual too so I will have a guide for the future. One more question (for this post). Does anyone recommend lead additives to boost octane or would I be better off retarding timing a little to prevent detonation. It didn't seem to knock at all on a fresh tank of Amoco 93 octane today. Sorry for the length of the post but I LOVE THIS CAR and want to treat it right. ANY help or advice would be appreciated |
#2
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Well I just had my new baby delivered today - a 1966 GTO hardtop w/the original WS code tripower engine and M20 4speed. I'd like some advice from the experienced on how to keep this car purring.
All the available documentation and owner history shows it to have 45,500 original miles. I don't think the engine has ever been modified as the heads, intake, carbs and block are all correct after exhaustive research. I've had several muscle cars but never a GTO or GM car and never one this original. I consider myself pretty competent with a wrench - but I want to keep this car forever so I want to treat it right My first (of many) questions is what oil should I use on this engine assuming it is the original motor and miles? I live in Atlanta and it gets steamy hot in the summer. My original owner's manual says straight SAE 30 for the summer and 5W20 for below freezing. Do you think this would still be right for a 36 year old engine? I drove it for the first time today and the oil pressure is about 35-40 at idle & goes up to 60+ at cruising speed. The (oil press) needle twitches some at idle but never goes below 30. I will eventually pull the oil pan and valve cover to see how things look inside but just want to start out with a fresh oil change before I drive it any. Have ordered a shop manual too so I will have a guide for the future. One more question (for this post). Does anyone recommend lead additives to boost octane or would I be better off retarding timing a little to prevent detonation. It didn't seem to knock at all on a fresh tank of Amoco 93 octane today. Sorry for the length of the post but I LOVE THIS CAR and want to treat it right. ANY help or advice would be appreciated |
#3
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What did you pay for this?
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#4
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Pingmasterson - Do I have to bare my soul just to get a little friendly advice around here?! LOL!
I looked around for 6 months and had some very knowledgeable help to guide me. I looked at '66 & '67s only and decided on a 4spd '66 tripower when '67 HO's with 4spd became almost immpossible to find. I went to Jersey to see two nearly identical cars except one was a convertible and this one a hardtop. Well there was no comparison in person as far as condition. The hardtop was much, much nicer with an original drivetrain to boot! The guy that owned it was an incredibly nice, honest fellow and we negotiated down from his starting price of $26K to one that was mutually agreeable around $24K. It is the nicest, most original 1966 tripower 4 spd I have seen for that price in 3 1/2 months of hard looking so I'm pretty stoked to be seeing it in my driveway!I probably could have gotten it for a little less but the guy was so nice and represented the car fairly that I knew I wanted it as soon as I pulled up in his driveway. Now, about my original question... What oil do you guys run in your cars in the summer? I thought about Mobil 1 but I read here that if there are any leaks or weak seals in the engine Mobil 1 will find them. I've always believed that any good qualiy oil changed often with a new filter is as good as synthetic for the same money over time. Also, any ideas on the fuel/octane booster? |
#5
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I have a 65 Tripower 4spd ( WS Block ) and I run synthetic. I do get a couple of drips from the rear main, but feel it is worth it. Synthetic oil is hands down better than non-synthetic. Whether or not we need that extra protection is a different subject. There is no better oil period.
I would point out that some of the rear end posi units specifically say do not run synthetic with their differential. Auburn for one. There are many discussions on synthetic oils virtues on this board and on the net. Jim Congrats on what sounds like a great car ! Luv to see some pics.
__________________
-Jim Doran- 1965 389 Tripower; 4 speed; convertible 2019 Tesla Model 3 Performance 2016 Chevy SS; Sold 2001 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 2008 Infiniti G35x |
#6
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Jim,
Thanks for the nod to synthetic. That's what I wanted to use anyway for my own peace of mind. More expensive but for the 1500-2000 miles a year I will drive it is a good investment I think. Mobil 1 has a 5W30 formula that should cover my driving conditions. Any ideas on the octane boosters? Your engine is basically the same as mine - what do you use? Thanks for the kind compliment on my car. I'll post some pic as soon as I figure out how to do it. Tim |
#7
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I try and run Sunoco 94 Octane. Previous owner put a large cam in the car. Too large in my opinion. It runs good, but some bottom end is sacrificed. I still need to shake out some tuning/timing issues. My point is the large cam has more overlap thereby bleading off some of the compression of the stock #77 heads. I also have availability of cam2 about 5 miles down road. $4.50 a gallon though. I have tried half tank cam2 w/half tank 94 didn't notice much diff. The motor does not ping w/12 degree init timing. But as I said, I think the timing advance is not right. Actually I plan on checking the total timing ( mechanical ) and at what RPM's today.
Jim
__________________
-Jim Doran- 1965 389 Tripower; 4 speed; convertible 2019 Tesla Model 3 Performance 2016 Chevy SS; Sold 2001 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 2008 Infiniti G35x |
#8
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I didn't think about using CAM2. There is a stock car track about a mile from my house so maybe I'll go investigate & see if I can try some. I think my car may have the original or equivalent original cam because it idles as smooth as a sewing machine at 600-700 rpm. I would think I'd detect something if it had a bigger cam but I don't have a lot of experience with modified engines. Plus, the motor looks stock everywhere else. I'll eventually look inside but thats kind of like pulling a loose string on a sweater - next thing you know you've got the whole thing apart! I'll start with a thorough tune up and timing check to see where I stand. Let me know how your diagnostic turns out.
This board has been a great source of info before I got the car. Looking forward to more exchanges now that I've got the car home. Tim |
#9
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Goatseeker,sounds like a dream come true for you,congrats on your purchase.A 45k mile original WS 66 is almost impossible to find.GTO's are still one of the fastest appreciating cars in original condition and all original stuff on the market,especially 4-speed tri's.Good work and have fun.All the best bigpop
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Mr. President, you can't say Dallas doesn't love you " |
#10
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Bigpop,
Again, thanks for the kind words! Like I said, you guys have been very helpful before I even bought the car. Now I know the check I just sent for dues is money well spent. I know my car would probably not win a concours show yet but nonetheless it is a 'dream car' for me. When I started the search, I set a goal of buying the most original car in the best condition within my budget and I think I made a good purchase in today's market. I look forward to putting your advice to good use to keeping this car running for many years. |
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