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The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#1
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I was wondering what guys have used on their Dupont Chromabase Base coat/Clear coat after fresh paint job.I have a few runs and would like to sand and polish the whole car but would like feedback on "how in detail" and "what polish", "what pad on polisher".The car turned out pretty good for a garage job, It has 2 coats black base with 3 coats clear.How long after the paint job till i can start to blade ,scrape off runs and 1500/2000grit sand top clear coat?If you have any advise on what not to do and what works well please fill me in ....here are a few pics of the car.(the blue on the front is the reflection of the sky.)
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#2
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#3
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Well, you've unmasked the car so I assume it's been at least 24 hours dry time...
The runs in the clear will be "soft"/easier to cut down sooner than later so get started. When you're done with that start with the 1500 on the clear using plenty of fresh water. Are you using a DA? What compound will you be using after sanding the clear? And hey...nice job..black is my fav color to shoot.
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Ric |
#4
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Thanks T/A70,Yes its been 48hours now since i painted.What exacly is DA? I'm not sure which compound to use yet i heard good things about the "Meguires mirror glaze machine glaze".Thankyou for the compliment...alot of hard work goes into the bondo with black paint, but everything pays off in the end.Here are some more pics..Gotta love black!!
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#5
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#6
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#7
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Sorry for all the pics, but i couldn't decide on a just a few..#6
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#8
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#7 thats a reflection of a basketball hoop!
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#9
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the absolute best buffing compound to use is called Truefinish. What makes it the best is it ease of use and the fact that you do NOT have to switch materials; it leaves no swirls. That is a big benefit especially on black. It can only be gotten mailorder, but it is worth it. I have stopped using other products and use this soley. It can be bought from http://www.autobodystore.com..., but it is produced by a detailer in califirnia who works with million doallr cars. It is as good as I say.
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Pete's Ponies Mustang RUSToration & Performance |
#10
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Wow, again, nice job. DA=dual action sander... You don't need one, but it sure cuts into time for sure. I use an AirVantage unit and love it. Okay, so you're block sanding huh? No prob, you'll have forearms like Popeye when done. I usually begin 12 hours or so after shooting depending on temp. I still use Presta Ultra only because I still have so much of it around. Can't comment on the Meguiers as I've never used it. Will you be using a variable speed buffer to polish? I highly recommend it but everyone's budget is different.
What gun and compressor did you use on this project? Lung/skin protection?
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Ric |
#11
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I've heard the buzz on TrueFinish. And if Pete's using it then that's the ticket!
Ric
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Ric |
#12
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Well to be honest, i'm not sure what to use to wet sand....block ?..what size?I was gonna just wet sand with 1500/2000 grit paper folded up in my hand ...i was told not to use the rubber block. My buffer is a two speed and i need to buy a pad for it..does it matter which pad i buy?I used a single stage-5hp compressor with a add on extra tank(an old taxi cab propane tank) about a 120 pounds extra..compressor ran only for a few minutes between coats,along with a suction style Devilbliss gun.I wore a charcoal filter mask and tight sweats with rubber gloves tapped around wrist.I painted it at 4am when bugs were nil and it had rained the previous day.I oppened the big garage door about 18" and tapped furnase filters along bottom.I layed out plastic with two sided tape to ceiling on both sides.I have a exhaust vent fan about 3 ft from ground, across from filters that were in door.It stayed clear while i was spaying.
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#13
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I usually use a 3m sponge pad with the 1500 folded around it. I have heard good things about 3m's new 3000 polishing kit, but haven't had 1st hand experience with it. One thing to remember to do is soak your 1500/2000 sandpaper, at least 10 minutes before trying to use it. irgoatmike
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#14
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I used 3-M perfect it III compound and swirl remover to good advantage in the past. Have not used tge new 3000 priduct, but would love to hear someones experience. bw
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#15
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Luckyluc, I'll use the sponge block on large or flat areas and my hands for curves and body lines to "feel" the surface. Just be careful not to cut through your topcoat. Do one panel at a time, relax, and think about how awesome it's going to look when you're done. I would actually start with 1000 or 1200 to knock the peel down some then move to 1500 since you have three coats of clear on it. Stick with 1500 on the body lines and edges as these are very easy areas to cut through to your base and I know you don't want to deal with that! When using your hands, position the paper where it will be flat; sorta karate chop style where it feels comfortable. Nice smooth, even strokes. And like I said, use plenty of fresh water as you go and check your progress as you rinse. When it comes time to buff, you can always go back and re-sand any areas you may have missed when you see the final finish and buff again. It's gonna turn out great!
Ric
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Ric |
#16
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But if i think of how awesome it will looks when its done.i start to giggle like a school girl.
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#17
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Well, you'll see your reflection in the car's finish, that will humble ya a bit...
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Ric |
#18
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If i wait longer will it be harder to cut leaks and to sand? Its been since saturday morning.
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#19
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Now, can i put my decal kit after i polish the car with cutting compound and machine polish??I'm waiting for the decal kit to be shipped to me from NPD and i dont really want to wait till they get here.Also, that creates another question..how long before i can put my decals on?? Thank you for all the help guys..gives me confidence and removes doubt!!
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#20
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You can sand now or later...won't be much harder either way. Yes, sand and buff before the decals arrive no prob. Remove any polish residue from the decal areas with wax/grease remover before adding the decals.
Ric
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Ric |
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