[jmb]

I installed a .030 over 455 in my 67 GTO last spring. I'm using 1971 "96" heads so my compression ratio is about 9.5:1. I'm running a 1966 tri power with standard points ignition. Cam is a Summit 214-224 with .442-.465 lift. The car has a turbo 400 with shift kit and a TCI Saturday Night Special converter with approx. 2000 stall. I'm running a 3.55:1 limited slip rear end. The concern I have is coolant temps. In traffic and at highway speeds in the summer the temp gage (new mech. autogage) creeps up around 215-220 range. The radiator in the car is a 2 year old Dessert Cooler. New clutch fan as well as new water pump and divider plates in the new motor. I am considering installing an aluminum Be-Cool radiator. They state that in most applications that I'll get a 20-40 degree temperature drop. That sounds great to me! Anyone out there that has done this? Please share any experiences. Thanks! JMB

[jmb]

I installed a .030 over 455 in my 67 GTO last spring. I'm using 1971 "96" heads so my compression ratio is about 9.5:1. I'm running a 1966 tri power with standard points ignition. Cam is a Summit 214-224 with .442-.465 lift. The car has a turbo 400 with shift kit and a TCI Saturday Night Special converter with approx. 2000 stall. I'm running a 3.55:1 limited slip rear end. The concern I have is coolant temps. In traffic and at highway speeds in the summer the temp gage (new mech. autogage) creeps up around 215-220 range. The radiator in the car is a 2 year old Dessert Cooler. New clutch fan as well as new water pump and divider plates in the new motor. I am considering installing an aluminum Be-Cool radiator. They state that in most applications that I'll get a 20-40 degree temperature drop. That sounds great to me! Anyone out there that has done this? Please share any experiences. Thanks! JMB

[Greg Minor]

I have almost the exact engine in my 62 cat with the same heads only my trans is a 700r mt temps also get above 210 on a hot day I have a 421 in another 62 Cat with a griffin aluminum radiator it never I repeat never gets over 185 even on a hot day I have another griffin radiator going in a 63 cat with a 428 I feel this is without a doubt worth the $

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[Frank]

I prefer aluminum radiators.

[Bill Meyer]

JMB, I had cooling problems with my 500hp
455, tried all the cheep stuff- no help- bit the bullet and put in a BE-COOL, hard to get the temp past 180! Upgraded motor to just over 600HP still no problems going rounds.
The only other thing I did was get rid of that lousy alum water pump and put on a stock one.

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GT37

[Vascar]

Bill Was something wrong with the aluminum water pump, or was it old and time to replace Did you have the Milodon aluminum Pump

[This message has been edited by Vascar (edited 12-30-1999).]

[boykoman]

I use a Griffin aluminum rad .On a hot day 105+ motor went to 190.My motor has high compression and is driven on the street.I bought my rad from Jegs.Here is a money saving tip from my engine builder.If you look in Jegs magazine a Be Cool rad will run you about 521.00 bucks i.e. this is bolt in and has provisions for your trans lines.Forget this and turn to the circle track section and look under Griffin aluminum rads.Just measure your own rad and pick out the correct dimensions.You will have to weld on mounting tabs,maybe change the lower rad hose.Also no provisions for trans cooling but most of us run a separate trans cooler anyway.Now compare the price!181.99 and for heavy duty cooling 275.99.I got the 275.99 one 27.5 by 16 inch. Hope this helps!

[Vascar]

I bought the Griffin Radiator for my car too. It has 2 one inch rows and it's every bit as big if not bigger that a 4 core. I paid around 235.00 for it.

[Bill Meyer]

vascar - the water pump that I had trouble with (it's been 6 yrs now) was an aluminum
made in japan that I think I got from NAPA-not positive- the vanes were shorter in diameter and didn't stick into the water
as far- thought I would save some weight, but just caused some "hot times".

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GT37

[455-66GTO]

Has anyone installed a Griffin in a A/C equipped 66 GTO that originally has the larger radiator. Since they measure by core size the larger radiator is 17in. tall but with tanks added top/bottom total size is 22+ inches tall. My width is 25+ inches wide. How much does the new side tanks add to the picture, is it 2 inches a side. Jegs only show the shorter radiator and in the back the tallest radiator is 19inch, 3 inches shorter than I need. Does anyone have a suggestion.

[Chambers]

Be wary of griffin radiators, I got one from Bill Mitchell Racing and it made my existing overheating problem worse. The problem was the fin density. The one I got was for oval track and is fine if you're driving 150 mph. Just make sure the fins are close/dense simular to modern OEM.

[Brian Baker]

I too had problems with the Japanesse made NAPA aluminum water pumps. The front seal in it didn't seem to last too long. I've noticed that the FlowKooler brand pumps are the same Jap. NAPA pumps but with a plate welded to the back of the impeller. I had a FlowKooler on my 79 T/A with 455 power, it made the car run hot, so I went back to a stock aluminum pump (and so far this one is holding up fine after 1.5 years). My block being filled may have had something to do with the FlowKooler running hot, but I've heard others having the same troubles. I'm considering a Griffin radiator this year, thanks for the tips folks.