[KEV]

Hey Guys, If you were building a 600 hp motor and needed to upgrade your rear (8.2 10 bolt), what would you chose and why? I know the Ford 9 allows for an easier gear swap but is heavier. How much weight would I be adding? Any other pros and cons would be appreciated. Who would you purchase it from as well?

Thanks,

Kev

[KEV]

Hey Guys, If you were building a 600 hp motor and needed to upgrade your rear (8.2 10 bolt), what would you chose and why? I know the Ford 9 allows for an easier gear swap but is heavier. How much weight would I be adding? Any other pros and cons would be appreciated. Who would you purchase it from as well?

Thanks,

Kev

[Goatman]

I would go with the 9". Moser, Currie, custom made, it really doesn't matter. Here's why. You can break/bend a 12 bolt. You can't with a 9", at least not with HP under 900. Its worth the extra weight and horsepower loss. I wish I had built one instead of a 12 bolt. The minute it breaks, its gone.

At the last day of the track last year (New England Drag Way) four of my friends broke their 12 bolts on the same day. Granted, that's a rarity, but it happened. Everyone was putting their cars on "kill" mode and four broke. That's not good. A 12 bolt will live a while behind your motor, but not as long as a 9".

[WDCreech]

You can bend a 9" with under 600hp. I bent mine. Car weighed 3040# with me in it. Foot braking and it still bent both tubes forward. The easy solution is a back brace. Wish I had put one on in the first place.

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Bill

[71Sport]

I really think this subject will go on forever.
When I was making the decision I automatically programed my head for FORD 9", but there are a LOT of people out there running big numbers/high torque on 12 bolts.
P-Dude said it when he mentioned weld tubes, aftermarket axels, c-clip eliminators, a spool ... nuff said.
There are many stories about broken 12 bolts and they far outnumber the horor stories on 9" units
What I have learned about Moser .... you better know exactly what you want because trying to get them to guide you through their options is an absolute joke.
If you are running a rear sway bar don't bother getting the "optional" drain plug ... it will lay right on the sway bar.
Remember you can get a new center section (9' housing) for an additional $50.00.
When you see the beat to crap reconditioned unit they sell you will kick yourself when you find out they had a new one available.
The welded brace is a must, and an option.
I am still using the drum rear brakes so I had to open up the backing plates to accept the large ford bearing, no big deal,
I went with a spool, 35 spline axels and 4:30 pro gears.
All in all I think this is a stroger set up than the 12 bolt, but it may not be necessary for our HP.
PS I have a completely rebuilt 12 bolt sitting in the garage now, 4:11 gears. Want to make an offer?

[This message has been edited by 71Sport (edited 09-06-2001).]

[Scott Misus]

Dana 60.

[WDCreech]

Misus is right. If you want an indistructable rear go with the Dana.
And they're less expensive than either the 9" or 12 bolt.
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Bill

[This message has been edited by WDCreech (edited 09-06-2001).]

[Rashionality]

Much heavier though...but, if you're gonna put a lot of torque in it...the DANA is the way to go, or a FAB9...if you can afford one.

[TTS]

Moser has the NEW 12 bolt rears, a little pricey but nice. I know everybody is sick of 12 bolt vs. 9 inch discussions but here's my opinion. The 9" is slightly stronger, heavier, easier to work on. It's a wash. I chose to stay GM. 3600+ lb. T/A at Butler's this year ran high 6's, runs much better here below sea level. Running a stock 10 bolt (8.5) for years, no problems. 406" cheby about the same weight running a mail order 9". Broke the carrier in half, broke the center section from main cap to pinion support. That car is slower, less torque, and can't put it on the ground. The rear was in the car a month or little longer. They all break, it's part of racing.

[KEV]

Hey Guys! Didn't mean to stir up an old discussion... guess I should have checked the archives. Understood, stuff happens when you race. I guess I am just looking for the best bang for the buck.

On the Dana 60, does anyone make one like they do the Ford 9's and some of the "new" 12 bolts? How much more does it weigh? What should one cost? Is it a front loader like the ford 9? Obviously, I dont know much about the dana.

Goatman, you from NJ? First time I heard the old "kill mode" was from Scott Rex! LOL

71sport, i would make you an offer on that rear but i need one for a 66 GTO. I think (may be wrong) that the one you have for sale is for a 68 and newer car. Those are an inch or so wider than the one I would need for my car.

What axel spline should I go with? 31, 33, 35 ? Which is stronger.

Thanks for the info,

Kev

[Scott Misus]

If your '66 uses the stock upper control arms, then forget the Dana, and go with the 12 boat.

[Jason H]

I was just facing this same question earlier this summer. I choose to go with a FAB 9. I have the rear brace on it. It is fitted with 31 spline strange axles, a locker, 3:89 gears, and the stronger third member. Everything is new except for the brakes, which are the stock drums. I plan on changing to discs, but I need to figure out how. I have some rear discs off of a 80 firebird, hopefully these will work. Anyways I also reaplaced the coil springs with a set of the HAL coil over shocks, nice pieces. When all was said and done I spent a little under $3,000. I don'n know what your budget is like but I have seen rebuilt 12 bolts for around $1,000. I wanted new stuff, cuz I was tired of replacing parts that are old.

Jason

[KEV]

Hey Guys! Well I have decided on a 12 bolt which is made by KRTE in Canfield/Jackson Ohio. Spoke with the guy there Ken Thomas I believe. He said he could build a 9 stronger than a 12 bolt due to the quality aftermarket parts available. Bad part was it is over $700 more than the 12 bolt.

The front loading of the 9 was appealing to me. I was talked out of this after Ken told me that he knows guys running ford 9s and none of them carry around a spare center section. He said that if you got a spare setup the way you wanted your "runner" it would cost about $1700. I could buy 2 12 bolts for that money!!

The cost is right around $2100 (tax and all). I went with 35 spline axels and a spool. Unit does not use c-clips. He aparently CNC machines the housing and welds on his own tubes.

Thanks for the help,


------------------
Kevin Swaney
Gold '66 GTO powered by a 389 with Trips
with TH350 12.511 @ 106.91 mph

'69 Ventura 400 cid 4bbl 15.33 @ 90 mph

[This message has been edited by KEV (edited 09-22-2001).]

[71 T/A]

71 Sport,
I also own a 69 GTO. Does your 12-bolt have a c-clip eliminator? How much do you want for it?