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#1
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I've decided it would be best to swap out my 350 for a 400. What is the best way to go for this and what should I look for in the core 400.
I don't know anything at all about a what core really stands for, so I'm assuming I'll need new intake and carb hoses etc. Will any parts that I need transfer over from the 350 and how hard will it be to mount? (I am hoping to find a 1968 400 but what other years swap very easy?). TIA Tyler
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Tyler |
#2
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I've decided it would be best to swap out my 350 for a 400. What is the best way to go for this and what should I look for in the core 400.
I don't know anything at all about a what core really stands for, so I'm assuming I'll need new intake and carb hoses etc. Will any parts that I need transfer over from the 350 and how hard will it be to mount? (I am hoping to find a 1968 400 but what other years swap very easy?). TIA Tyler
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Tyler |
#3
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As well as the average price I should look for (specify US or CAN).
Tyler
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Tyler |
#4
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Tyler,
A core is a rebuildable motor. It will usually require a complete rebuild. The 400 will bolt right in place of the 350, no problems. The first thing you need to do is determine what you want the car to do. Do you want a street car? If so, you will want to keep the compression at approximately 9.5:1 or less with iron heads. If you are doing this for the first time, do not buy any parts until you have disassembled the motor and taken it to a machine shop and have them go through it. That is if you plan to do the assembly, otherwise take the complete core to them. They will tell you what you need to have done and what size pistons, rings, and bearings you will need. What motor you get and what your intentions are, will determine what you need to have done. [img]ftp://members.aol.com/gr8one68/gr8one68.jpg[/img]
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469 (455 + .060") with the Edelbrock RAIV cam, Ported 6X-8 heads with 1.77" exhaust valves, 100 cc's, "0" decked block for 9.3:1 static CR, Eagle 1.65:1 roller rockers, Edelbrock RPM manifold and Edelbrock 750 carb., 1.75" x 3.0" Hedman Headers, 2.5" flowmaster exhaust system with "H" pipe and Dynamax super turbo mufflers. 200-4R with a Continental converter, 3.07:1 12 Bolt Saf-T-Trac |
#5
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Thanks much, but what years will just bolt in easy like that or will any year?
Tyler
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Tyler |
#6
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Block wise, easiast selection would be a '67-69 (2 motor mount attachment holes) or a '70 through 76 1/2 block. In mid '76, the 5 motor mount attachment hole block was no more, & only 3 (in a triangle) remained. The "5 hole" block will work early or late.
For an early Firebird build, you don't want to end up with a '76 1/2-79 400 Pontiac block.
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Buzzards gotta eat... same as worms. |
#7
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If your just looking to freshin up the 400 and assuming all is well, most of your 350 parts will swap right over to the 400. You may want to check your heads to see if they will flow enough for the 400. Your Heads, Intake, Rods, Crank, Timing cover/water pump,cam (though I wouldnt use a 350 cam on a 400) and balancer will all swap over. The only big difference between the two blocks will be the cylinder bore. I would take the crank to the machine shop to have them clean it up and have them check the rods for any damage and install a set of ARP Rod bolts. You may also want to invest in an Edlbrock Performer (Street) or a Performer RPM intake (Street/strip) it all depends on what you will do with the car.
If you are interested I have a set of Eagle H-Beam Rods for $450.00 Free shipping. They will require a free floating Piston. SPEED SAFE, AIR RAM Im putting together a .040 455 with Edelbrock heads (72cc), Eagle Rods, Dished J&E Pistons for 10.5:1, Harlem sharp roller Rockers, Fluidampner, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, and 750 Demon Carb. Looking for Low 12s in the 1/4.......LOL
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"The grass is not greener on the other side, its just fertilized with different $h!t" |
#8
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Well I'm going to check into the local speed shop and see if a 400 is floating around anywhere locally. Worse comes to worse I can order one in from Edmonton.
I just want to get the engine in and running then work on making it faster [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif[/img] So I want to move as many parts as possible over but if they don't transfer over putting something performance orientated in heh. Tyler
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Tyler |
#9
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Okay when I buy the engine what am I looking for. Specific parts that should be included / won't be included.
What will I usually get in a core 400? Pistons yes, no? Manifold etc. Tyler
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Tyler |
#10
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You at least want the block, heads, crank, rods & pistons, and if possible front timing cover although the old one should swap over. For this you can expect to pay $400 - $500 US. If it comes with the intake, carb, distrib, etc. then you could expect to pay anywhere from $600 - $800 US.
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#11
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Those prices seem kinda high for a 400 core, 455 ok, but not a 400, unless you go to a local junk yard and they are almost always high. Your core 400 should be as complete as you can get it. The price range for a core could be from free to maybe $200US depending on what you get with it. If its been built before maybe a little higher if it has better than stock internal parts. If you buy a running long block then you can get into the $500US on up range. Just look around a little, they are still pretty plentiful.
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"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity." |
#12
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Thanks guys [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif[/img]
Tyler
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Tyler |
#13
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Does anyone know where in Canada (Alberta) I should start looking for a core 400 from a 67-69 Firebird. I asked at the big F-Body wreckers in Edmonton and they had nothing.
Tyler
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Tyler |
#14
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I would check the classifieds and old car lots for a running driving big Pontiac. They are usually pretty cheap especially with rust. Maybe it wouldnt even need an overhaul. All the parts you need would be included.
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