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6567GTO · 03-14-2001, 12:38 PM

I'll be installing a freshly rebuilt engine in my car and want to make sure that I don't overlook anything on the initial start up. It's been a long time since I've done it.

What oil should I use?
What RPM? and how long?
It has an Ultradyne Hydraulic Street/Bracket cam. Do I need to remove the inner springs?
etc...

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

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Thanks in advance,

Phil

6567GTO · 03-14-2001, 12:38 PM

I'll be installing a freshly rebuilt engine in my car and want to make sure that I don't overlook anything on the initial start up. It's been a long time since I've done it.

What oil should I use?
What RPM? and how long?
It has an Ultradyne Hydraulic Street/Bracket cam. Do I need to remove the inner springs?
etc...

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

----------------------------------------

Thanks in advance,

Phil

slowbird · 03-14-2001, 01:49 PM

Make sure you prime the oil pump before you start it. Once running let it run for about 20 min. at 2000 rpms. You do not have to remove the inner spring. The oil I like to use straight 30w

Will · 03-14-2001, 07:52 PM

I agree with slowbird though I usually try to vary the engine RPMs from 1500 to 2500. Don't know why, just heard it's a good idea and has always worked for me.

Michael G · 03-14-2001, 08:40 PM

The idea is to fire it up instantly, get it up to a varying speed between 2000 and 2500 rpm and keep it there for 20-30 min.
In order to accomplish this you must have your act together before you start.
Engine lubricating system should be primed till your pressure gauge comes up to 60psi. Distributer needs to be installed with the rotor facing the #1 plug and the balancer mark at 14 deg. (Common mistake, engine does no run at 0 deg). Oil and temp gauges need to be hooked up for monitoring. Have garden hose flowing and ready to help cool radiator.
Put some fuel into the carb and let it rip. Oh and don't forget to fill the trans with fluid. hehe
Unless you have a high lift cam and with excessive spring pressures, no need to remove the inner springs.

Old Man Taylor · 03-14-2001, 10:33 PM

I have a different idea than Michael G. I always break my engines in retarded. They will heat up faster, but supposedly the rings will seat better. I usually have it 6-10 degrees retarded. This is pretty easy to set up if you have points. It is a lot harder with an electronic ignition. I always cycle mine between 2500-3000 RPM, never less than 2500 unless I have to shut it off for some reason. I shoot for 20-25 minutes.

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Jim

6567GTO · 03-15-2001, 04:21 PM

Thanks for the responses. I have a couple more questions,

Should I change the oil & filter after the first run or after 500 miles?

Also how long before I can run synthetic oil?

RPM · 03-15-2001, 04:59 PM

Some of the cam manufacturers don't recommend synthetic oil for flat-tappet cams.

UnchainedGTO · 03-15-2001, 07:26 PM

Your timing on when to switch over to synthetic oil will depend more on what type of rings you are running. A good rule is to go at least 500 miles with standard rings and at least 1500 with moly rings. You should change your oil and filter after your initial 30 minute break in as well.

Unchained

UnchainedGTO · 03-15-2001, 07:28 PM

RPM,
Which cam manufacturer made the statement about not running synthetic oil with a flat tappet cam?

Unchained

RPM · 03-15-2001, 07:52 PM

I read on the boards that some of the cam manufacturers frowned on synthetic for flat tappet cams so since I have a Crower cam I emailed Crower about that. I got a response back from Brian Crower stating NEVER to use synthetic and only run a pure Pennsylvania based motor oil. They would not say why or recommend a brand.

6567GTO · 03-15-2001, 08:27 PM

I'll give Ultradyne a call tomorrow and ask about synthetic oil. I'm glad I mentioned it. The reason I asked for advice about my initial startup was because I was pretty pissed off at my local engine builder and didn't talk to him about it. Therefore I don't know all the little details. He was months overdue. I hope the motor is OK.

This is a great site. Thanks guys,

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Phil

Michael G · 03-15-2001, 09:40 PM

Jim, your the man and I'm not going to argue that point since I agree that ring seal is a very important issue.
Seems that I always have my hands full with just being able to keep the temperatures of a fresh engine within a liveable range during that "refuse to shut it down time".
And yes, definately change the oil and filter immediatly after breakin and then again after at most, 500 miles.
Phil, why the need for synthetic motor oil?

6567GTO · 03-15-2001, 09:56 PM

I just thought it would be a good idea to use synthetic because of the roller rockers and it's what I've been using with good luck in my Jeep's V8. I hear more and more praises about how much these oils have improved. My father who ran a Jaguar repair for shop for 30 years used to swear by Pennsylvania oils though. Funny thing, he worked on Jags but owned Pontiacs.

Old Man Taylor · 03-15-2001, 10:22 PM

Michael G - When I am breaking in a new engine, I have a friend (or my wife) stand in front of the car with a garden hose. I have them squirt it on the radiator when it starts getting too hot. It makes a big mess, but I would rather do it this way and deal with the cleanup. This break-in process is not necessary with a roller cam, which would be one advantage of running one of them. As to oil, I have always used dinosaur oil. My engines always look great when I take them apart. Of course, you have to change it on a regular basis. I have not noticed any issues with my roller rockers. They are 1.65 Crower Stainless Steel. Valve lift is 0.600".

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Jim

UnchainedGTO · 03-17-2001, 12:20 AM

RPM,
Thank you for answering my question. I am in no way taking issue to what you stated and appreciate your response back. I will have to ask Brian Crower to explain himself. I am not interested in creating another Synth. vs. Dino oil debate so I will keep my remarks off line. I will say that for all the knowledge Crower has in hard parts he may not be up to date on synthetic oils.

Unchained

6567GTO · 03-17-2001, 12:49 PM

Unchained - I hear where you're coming from on the debate issue and appreciate your input on my post but where else would you have it? I've learned a ton more about Pontiacs and everything else from this B & B and hope to continue doing it. Keep it coming.

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Phil

UnchainedGTO · 03-19-2001, 04:15 PM

Phil,
It is that there is no comparison in the two products. Synthetic oil does everything that crude oil does and does it much better. The only drawback is the price. It flows, cools, lubricates, and protects better. If you are changing oil after each run I understand the price may not be worth the added expense. If you have a fresh engine for street/strip use that will see regular miles and racing it does not make sense not to use synthetic.

Unchained

6567GTO · 03-19-2001, 09:19 PM

That's kinda what I was thinking Unchained - Thanks. Does everyone agree with using 30w for the break in run? I left two messages on two different phone tech. lines at UltraDyne regarding using synthetic oil with no answer back yet. I'm still curious what they might have to say.

RPM · 03-25-2001, 11:24 PM

Well speak of the devil, I just fired up my 428 tonight. Really no big deal but this was the first time I assembled a short block since 1970 so I was a little worried that I may have forgot something. All seems good so far after 30 minutes of running; no runs do drips no errors just like a can of Krylon. Oil used for the initial fire up was Valvoline 10W40. Seems also that the "tight when warm" problem is fixed. The engine takes no more torque to turn over hot than when cold so it seems that problem is behind me now (I hope).

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