[Ryan_64]

I know what you are thinking, why don't these people read down to the older topics because we just discussed this a week ago?!

Well I have, and I have tried everything that was suggested to other people.

I think I covered the basics so far. Radiator seems fine (4 core), I have the shroud on and the fan is 50/50 in the shroud, I added an electric fan to see if it would help. Tested with thermostats from 160-195 degrees and tried without one. Made sure the timing was correct (I think [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif[/img] ) Water pump checks out good, plates are good and properly seated. Replaced gaskets on the water pump, all the ones for the timing chain and fuel pump area. Don't know a single thing about carbs (so I didn't touch it....(rochester 2 jet) Even added a sepperate tranny cooler for the hell of it. And the headers dont glow [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif[/img]

My guess is maybe the carb since I am clueless in that department and someone suggested the head gaskets but wouldnt fluids mix and be a clear sign of that?

I know someone somewhere out there has the answer I need....

Thanks MUCH,
-Ryan

BTW - The car is a 64 Tempest with a 68 Pontiac 350 in it.

[Ryan_64]

I know what you are thinking, why don't these people read down to the older topics because we just discussed this a week ago?!

Well I have, and I have tried everything that was suggested to other people.

I think I covered the basics so far. Radiator seems fine (4 core), I have the shroud on and the fan is 50/50 in the shroud, I added an electric fan to see if it would help. Tested with thermostats from 160-195 degrees and tried without one. Made sure the timing was correct (I think [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif[/img] ) Water pump checks out good, plates are good and properly seated. Replaced gaskets on the water pump, all the ones for the timing chain and fuel pump area. Don't know a single thing about carbs (so I didn't touch it....(rochester 2 jet) Even added a sepperate tranny cooler for the hell of it. And the headers dont glow [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif[/img]

My guess is maybe the carb since I am clueless in that department and someone suggested the head gaskets but wouldnt fluids mix and be a clear sign of that?

I know someone somewhere out there has the answer I need....

Thanks MUCH,
-Ryan

BTW - The car is a 64 Tempest with a 68 Pontiac 350 in it.

[Blackcat]

Ryan,
Is the car really overheating (boiling over)
Or is the gauge reading hot? Do you have a gauge? When is the car overheating? At idle? On the highway?

[Roar]

Check the lower hose and see if it still got the spring in it. If it isnt there the hose might collapse and the pump will not deliver.

[Ryan_64]

Boiling over. And yes the hose has the spring, it is brand new [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif[/img]

All the hoses related to heating/cooling are new (no more then 2 months old)

Any other ideas...this has got me stumped.

-Ryan

[Blackcat]

This is an old method to check for a blown head gasket. Take off cap(cold engine). Start car. Watch the coolent(flow). When the engine reaches operating temp. The fluid will flow in the radiator. Watch for a while(several min). Normal flow will have no or very little bubbles. Blown head gasket will have bubbles in the flow. Having the cooling system pressure checked should also show a bad head gasket.
This seems to be your problem.

[JC455]

Ryan,
This might seem silly, but is it "boiling over" when you shut off the engine? If so, do you have a catch can to collect the fluids? If it's dumping coolant because of expansion and is unable to recover the coolant when everything cools, it will overheat due to the slowly lowering coolant levels.
More questions:
1) What type of fan/ how's it attached (ie- clutch ot bolted direct to the hub)?
2) Which side of the radiator is the electric fan attached to?
3) Has the radiator been checked for pressure/flow by a radiator shop?


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John

[Ryan_64]

Ok, I haven't had the system pressure tested. Later today I will check the flow for bubbles like you suggest Blackcat.

And JC455, actually yes, when I shut it down due to the high temp, It begins to boil over. I do have a coolant "catcher" attached so its not spraying on the ground. After the extra resivoir is filled, I can hear it still bubbleing in the radiator.

To answer your othe questions JC455, the fan is bolted directly to the hub. It is plastic and has 6 blades. The electric fan is mounted on the same side as the other fan to pull the air through the radiator. And no, it has not been checked at a shop. (yet [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif[/img] )

-Ryan

[Todd]

You mentioned that the "headers don't glow". Do you have tube headers & dual exhaust or are you talking about stock manifolds? If you have tube headers OR stock manifolds with dual exhaust and a untouched 2bbl carb, then you are runing wayyyyyyy too lean (more so if using headers). Way too lean = runs too hot.

[Ryan_64]

Head gasket checks ok.

They are tube headers with the 2 brl rochester. Would you mind explaining to me how to richen the mixture up and how I know when its right? As I said previously, I know as much about carbs as I do about atomic physics [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif[/img]

Thanks,
-Ryan

[JC455]

Ryan,
1) I agree with the idea of it being too lean.
2) From my own experience, I'll never use a plastic flex fan- I don't like them. I feel that they make way too much noise, are prone to failure (there was a major recall of the Flex a lite brand in the late 80's/early 90's), and they take a set (the pitch changes) after prolonged use. I prefer the GM fans (the 7 blades work best) with a clutch setup. Numerous tests have been done of fans/styles/types- the clutch fan always comes out the winner. It requires less HP to operate and disengages when it's not needed. Some of my friends argue about the extra weight on the nose of the WP- so go buy a WP at Autozone ($15.00 -brand new) with a lifetime warranty- problem solved. Again this is my experience (I've built 10 cars- no cooling problems once these issues are dealt with).
3) To adjust your carb, I would highly suggest Rochester Carburation by Doug Roe. It will help you understand hat's going on and how to make the correct changes.
a) To adjust the idle mixture, you'll need a vac gauge and/or a tach. Set your idle speed where you want it. Then adjust one side of the carb's idle mixture screws to achieve the highest vac/rpm. Move to the other side and repeat. Reset the idle speed if it moved more than 30-40 rpm. Repeat these procedures again (you get the idea [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif[/img]
b) To adjust the main mixture (fatten it up),you're gonna need to change the jet/metering rod combo. I suggest reading the book for info on this.
If you can't get the carb adjusted, post a question, I'm sure some of these guys run 2V carbs and can help get you dialed in.


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John