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#1
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I have had this remote oil filter kit hanging around for a couple years and I have finally decided to use it. My question in this: The filter housing has an "inlet" and "outlet" but the adaptor at the block is not marked. Which hose goes to the inlet, upper or lower? I would have guessed "upper". Thanks, Eddy.
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fasteddy |
#2
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I have had this remote oil filter kit hanging around for a couple years and I have finally decided to use it. My question in this: The filter housing has an "inlet" and "outlet" but the adaptor at the block is not marked. Which hose goes to the inlet, upper or lower? I would have guessed "upper". Thanks, Eddy.
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fasteddy |
#3
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Eddy, you guessed wrong.The lower hose from the block goes to the inlet on the filter. From the filter the outlet hose goes to the upper fitting on the block plate. [img]tongue.gif[/img]
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"Three may keep a secret, if two are dead" ~ Benjamin Franklin ~ |
#4
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Thanks Robert. Thats the way my guesses ususally go. I am very glad I asked. Thanks again, Eddy. [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif[/img]
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fasteddy |
#5
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I would be real cautious about using a remote filter kit,first look at the fittings on the hose ends,you may have 1/2 hose but the fittings are sometimes less than 3/8 ID,2nd keep all your hoses as short as possible ,3rd keep all bends in fittings to a minimum, its probably better to run an fittings #10 I believe as the ID is bigger and flow restriction is less ,block mounted filter with long filter is still best set up as far as I'm concerned.
Len |
#6
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Len, now that you have my attention, have you had or has someone you know had a bad experience with the remote filters. This is a race only application and with the donor headers I need all the room I can get on the pass side. If there is any chance that the remote will starve the engine for oil, then I will go back to my small headers. Sometimes I/we lose our heads in the quest for speed. Change 1 thing and the next thing you know you have to modify 6 others.
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fasteddy |
#7
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As long as your oil pump is up to the task and you follow Len's stated potential problems, you'll be fine.
I've ran a dual set up for years w/ no problems. Initially w/ the stock 78 400 oil pump. Use AN -10 fittings. Someone was posting that Russell now makes a wide mouth fitting for these type applications. You'll gain capacity and a cooling benifit; as well as, ease of filter change.
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SECOND AMENDMENT: AMERICA'S ORIGINAL HOMELAND SECURITY! |
#8
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While we are on the subject, what is a safe distance from the oil filter to the headers (obviously the further the better) but was wodering if anyone knew. I have a remote but am thinking of removing it.
thanks |
#9
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On turbo cars if you put a metal shield 1/2 inches
away from the turbo a Master Cylinder will be barely warm to the touch and the turbo will be red hot. The same applies to the filter. Make a filter shield 1/2 away from the filter to the header tube or tubes you are worried about and you will be fine. Tom V.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#10
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A buddy of mine had to relocate his filter because of header clearence and installed a kit with pre cut and fitted hoses , the motor lost bearings twice with attending other damages before he realized that the fittings on the hoses were less than 3/8" ID and that his hoses were too long. He changed to AN10 hose and fittings and has had no problems since. 2 filter setup is best as it gives less restriction and better cooling. I am thinking of machining an adapter for this purpose so that hoses exit at the top to eliminate fitting bends coming off the adapter.
Len [ April 13, 2002: Message edited by: Len ]</p> |
#11
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I like the part about "attending other damages". That would be snapping 6 rods in half and kicking them out the side of the block going through the traps at 110MPH. That was a fun day. Transdapt kits with their 1/2" lines and 3/8" fittings... Let's not even go there... Do yourself a favor if you need to go remote- buy the block plate from JBP, the remote filter housing from Nunzi, and spring for the -10AN fittings and SS lines. It ain't cheap, but your engine bearings will thank you...
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1965 GTO Nitrous Injected Tripower Aluminum Heads 464 CI Vertically Gated M22 4-speed |
#12
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Other products as alternates.... Nunzi block plate is reportably a good one (I assume it's not the same as Butlers). Also System-1 makes good remote filter units.
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'70 TA / 505 cid / same engine but revised ( previous best 10.63 at 127.05 ) Old information here: http://www.hotrod.com/articles/0712p...tiac-trans-am/ Sponsor of the world's fastest Pontiac powered Ford Fairmont (engine) 5.14 at 140 mph (1/8 mile) , true 10.5 tire, stock type suspension https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDoJnIP3HgE |
#13
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Why not just tap the outer block oil passages for 1/2" or 3/4" NPT? Use an AN-10 X NPT adapters to attach the -10 hoses.
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SECOND AMENDMENT: AMERICA'S ORIGINAL HOMELAND SECURITY! |
#14
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Nunzi's is a good piece, what with the o-ring seals and countersunk allen head bolts and black anodizing, but it's expensive, more than twice the price of the JBP piece. I have one and tried to use it, but it was 3/8" thicker than the JBP, just enough so it wouldn't clear the header even with a 90 degree AN fitting. Couldn't use it, so now it sits on a display motor on an engine stand and just looks pretty.
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1965 GTO Nitrous Injected Tripower Aluminum Heads 464 CI Vertically Gated M22 4-speed |
#15
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Well here is my take on this. I tapped my block last year when the engine was out. I tapped them to 3/8" as per an article i read. I should have tapped them to at least 1/2"! This I will do when the engine comes out again. I am running straight 40 wt oil and I had a Fram filter with stainless lines (real hydraulic stainless $$$) but they were only 3/8". Some of you guys may remember my post last fall. First thing I did was get rid of that Fram filter; pressure went up 5 psi! But the lines were totally chocking the oil supply. I wanted the filter in a better place too, but wasn't about to fry an engine over it. I put the old filter housing back on and my oil pressure shot back up to where it should have been. Around 60-70 psi. If you have ever watched an oil pressure gauge, you know how it will raise with RPM's, well those lines were causing such a restriction that it would come up to 50 psi at the most, but when you started to get on it the pressure would start to DROP!! Definetly a restriction. Weather you tap the block or not, take the advice of others, don't skimp on the lines. Run a -10 and as little fittings as possible, it is the life blood of your engine!
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1967 GTO 416 5-spd streetcar 11's on HP low 10's 150 shot 1965 GTO 10-71 Littlefield high-helix retro/Bird (untuned) 8.44 @164 3500+lbs 10.5W's SOLD! 1964 421 GP-Sold 6.0 cert. Fiat bodied altered blown alcohol Pontiac IAII-Sold |
#16
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How is the TD Performance single oil filter relocation kit? I'm about to order it.
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Dont funk with the 455... |
#17
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TD performance kit- throw the lines in the trash. Or more specifically- the fittings the lines connect to the ends with.
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1965 GTO Nitrous Injected Tripower Aluminum Heads 464 CI Vertically Gated M22 4-speed |
#18
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Somebody posted this link awhile ago. I was looking for a sandwich adapter so I could put a cooler on my pickup, but they also sell remote adapters--with 1/2" ports rather than the 3/8" it seems like every other adapter has. Looks like a good product.
http://www.accusump.com/acc_products/univ.html |
#19
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Warrior, why so? The kit seems to be of good quality includind a 1/2 ID line and 1/2 NPT fittings. No? Am I missing something? -Chris
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Dont funk with the 455... |
#20
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Measure the hole in the fittings
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1965 GTO Nitrous Injected Tripower Aluminum Heads 464 CI Vertically Gated M22 4-speed |
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