[Department X]

I have a 68 bonniville wagon with electrical problems it is hard to start and the wipers are very slow. My HEI is wired to the fuse box at the turn signals. When I run a hot wire directly from the battery it starts . Also if I run a hot wire strait to the wipers they speed right up . so this makes me conclude there is a lack of voltage on the side of the fuse box that is switched by the ignition. Is this a bad ignition switch? Bad fuseable link? Also the previous owner cut out the regulator. does anyone know how to rewire for an internal regulater altenator. thanks

[Department X]

I have a 68 bonniville wagon with electrical problems it is hard to start and the wipers are very slow. My HEI is wired to the fuse box at the turn signals. When I run a hot wire directly from the battery it starts . Also if I run a hot wire strait to the wipers they speed right up . so this makes me conclude there is a lack of voltage on the side of the fuse box that is switched by the ignition. Is this a bad ignition switch? Bad fuseable link? Also the previous owner cut out the regulator. does anyone know how to rewire for an internal regulater altenator. thanks

[burgundygto]

Hey, Dept.X - I think what you describe is a dirty connection at the ignition switch. A meter would show the correct volts, but there would not be enough amp flow. I looked on my 69 diagram and see that both the wiper and the starter solenoid wires go to the six connector plug on the ignition switch. Try pulling the connector off and cleaning the terminals with a copper cleaning solution like TARN-X (from the supermarket) and a tooth brush. Be sure to disconnect the battery first! For the alternator, The brown wire from the old regulator goes to the no.1 terminal on the new alternator For the dash light. The red power wire from the old regulator goes to the no.2 terminal of the new alternator. The old wires ( black with white and blue) are not used, but you can jump the brown and red wires to these at the old regulator plug and remark them at the alternator. This will save you from running new wire.

[Department X]

Thank You , I dont have the old connector to the reg (they really cut it out), but I should be able to figure it out .One other thing I have a gauge will No. 1 wire still be brown? Is there a mysterious fuseable link in this harness?

[george kujanski]

I need some clarification here. You say you think you have low voltage AND someone cutout the old regulator?

Is your system charging now? If not, there's the heart of your problem. Also, why guess? Get a voltmeter, it's as necessary as any other tool you buy to work on your car. Measure the voltage at the wiper motor when running, etc. to see what's going on.

Insure all of your ground straps are in place; you could be bleeding off voltage thru bad or inadequate grounds.

On a big car you don't have a idiot lite; my '67 schematics show the appropriate wire to be a white wire from the ignition switch, which becomes a blk/wht stripe to the old regulator, and then a dark blue to the alternator.

Connect the blk/wht stripe to the dark blue at the old regulator harness, and then the dark blue to terminal 1 on the new, internally regulated alternator. Term 2 on the alternator can be connected to the output stud on the alternator for simplicity, but a connection physically closer to the battery positive terminal will provide more accurate regulation of the batttery voltage.

Geo

[Department X]

thanks george, the system is charging the lights are bright at night and the indash meter increases with exceleration. I don't have the regulater connector, but I do have wires---#1 12gauge black wire connects to screw lug on alt, #2 16guage black wire connects to plug in connector to the right of holding cilp if clip is at 12 o'clock, #3 14gauge wire black with white strip connects to plug in left of clip, #4 14 gauge black with 2 thin orange lines connects to screw lug on alt, #5 12gauge black with 2 red lines connects to fuse link that doubles back to main solder connection. wish that i could draw it but thats what i am looking at. thanks again

[george kujanski]

Where do #'s 1,2,3 and 4 go to?

Seems like you have an internally regulated alternator in any case. It's important where the wire from the right side of the "holding clip" goes to. This is the alternator #2 terminal; the number should be cast into the housing near the receptacle, and is the voltage sense point. the regulator tries to keep this point at 14.0 (approx). It ideally should go to the battery positive.


Geo

[Department X]

all wires return to the main harness except #2 which goes straight to the main harness connector at firewall. No I don't have an enternal regulated alt(scary isn't it) thanks

[george kujanski]

Wait a minute...up above you say someone cut out the old regulator harness. If you still have the old regulator functioning your description of the alternator connections has me confused.

Go to www.madelectrical.com, navigate to the section on alternators. They have pix of a Deco 10SI internally regulated alternator. Does that look like what you have?

Geo

[Department X]

that's right it is the same one that is in my 69 bird with external reg

[Department X]

the old reg is cut out and the connector is gone but the old style alt is still in place and functioning. the voltage is being regulated now only by the accessories consumtion of electricity. I am going the pick up a new alt today with the enternal reg. thanks

[Department X]

Hey George that electrical link does not seem to work is some missing off the adress?http://www.madelectrical.com,/ Thanks

[george kujanski]

Try this, the comma sneaked in after the .com

http://www.madelectrical.com

Geo

[Department X]

Hey George ,great wed site. Today I finished rewiring the wagon and like magic everything worked. The wipers are fast ,the Hei is being fed. Thanks for your help. Also I was realy glad that I read the articals on madelectrical before I made I final terminations.