[70temp455]

I'm sure this has been covered before. If so point me to the appropriate thread(s)
On my 70 Tempest (last car) there was a resistance wire that ran to the original Points Coil. I seem to remember Black with pint stipe. I replaced it with a standard wire and ran it to the HEI coil. I was thinking it was on the inside of the car and ran from the ignition switch to the fuse block.
I read somewhere that the wire is in the engine compartment and runs from the points coil to the fuse block plug on the firewall, so I could be wrong about it being inside.
NOW , , ,
I have a 72 LeMans and just dropped in an HEI distributor and need to wire it with 12v.
The points coil I just removed had 2 wires going to the + side of the coil,(or was it the neg. side) 1 yellow and 1 black. I did not see a pink stripe but the insulation on the black wire seemed rubbery (like I vaguley remember the resistance wire on my 70).
Is this infact the resistance wire that I need to replace? If so , then it obviously IS infact in the engine compartment (and my old memory cells are lying to me about being inside)
Again, If this IS the correct wire, then am I safe to assume that the YELLOW wire is the 12v+ that runs to the starter.
I know I had found a wiring diagram of the HEI swap somewhere on line but can't find it now(when I need it).
I hope this fully explains what I'm looking for, If not, please ask and I will try to elaborate better.
I know one of you gurus knows how to wire this up correctly.
Thanks in advance Guys !
Andy

[jaime deal]

There are two wires that run from the ign switch to the coil/distrib. One is 12 volts for starting and one is 6 volts for the points during normal running. The system changes the 12 to 6 volts by using a section of resistor wire which can be on either side of the firewall. As for the color, it changes with the year, so good luck finding someone with the manual.

Personnally, I cheat. The ign switch has two wires (IGN-1 & IGN-2) that handle power to the coil. In your case since the ign switch is in the stearing column, I would disconnect the wiring harness at the bottom of the column and use an OHM meter to find out which two wires (out of 8 ?) have connectivity to the coil. Use a suitcase connector to act as a jumper between the two wires. This will give you 12 volts in both start and run positions. Just add a female spade terminal to the coil wire which you now plug into the HEI. No cutting, no splicing, wiring done.

[A.W.Dille]

On my 71 I ran the wire from the ignition terminal in the fuse box to the battery side of the cap. I also installed a 20 amp inline fuse as per Jim Hands book and so far it has worked flawlessly.

[70temp455]

I found the Yellow (from the starter) and the Black (what I would assume is the resistor wire) from the Old coil. I checked the voltage ,with key in RUN, and it reads 12.1 volts. I expacted 9Volts so I'm closer but still dazed and confused.
I'm going to run a Temporary wire either from the IGN terminal on the fuse block or the Battery just to jet it running (for now) Then , if I remove the battery wire with the Black (resistor) wire still attacced to the coil I can check the Actual Running voltage.
I can figure this out, I was hoping someone knew for sure wich wire is the ressistor wire and where it is.
Andy

[Nikwho]

I just got frustrated with my points style distributor and yanked it out. I pulled the dis, coil and all of the plugs. I never realized that there is a resistor wire(6v?) and 12 volt supply. I'm very happy you posted this so I can learn from it too! So, if I am going to re-wire my car, all I need is a 12 volt wire from the ign. switch, correct?
Thanks for posting this Andy. I probably would've screwed something up! Well, I probably still will!

[Schurkey]

http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref5.html

[70temp455]

You need a 12 volt (or appearently more) constant power supply to the HEI coil with the key in RUN position and a 12 volt power supply to the coil while cranking the starter. This has to be switched (or Keyed) in such a way that it is ON with the key in Run but OFF when you turn the key OFF. To get mine running and play with timing I ran a wire right from the battery but when you turn the key off it continuse to run until the batte wire is unplugged. That's why it needs to be dependant on the key position. On my 70 Tempest I simply found and replaced the Resitor wire with a standard 12 or 14 gage wire. My 72 seems to be somewhat different. On my old coil I had a yellow wire that runs up from the starter that feeds 12v while cranking and a Black wire from the wiring harness that runs fronm the firewall plug that connects to the back of the fuse box inside the car. I checked the voltage of the black wire with the key in Run and it read 12.1v but when I had the engine running with the battery wire I added it ran ok but when I unplugged the battery wire (still running with the key in Run) the voltage supplied by the original Black wire is not suffiecient and it Ran crappy.
My question NOW is ; what if I run a 12v feed wire from the altenator HOT terminal screw to a Relay triggered by the original Black Wire. This should give me anywhere from 12.5 volts to 14.5 volts, Correct ?
And What should I gap the Plugs ?
Andy

[Schurkey]

On MOST vehicles, a 12-gauge power wire run from the fuse box "ignition" terminal to the Batt terminal of the distributor is the simplest, easiest, cheapest possible solution. You are correct, the distributor has to have power in "run" and in "crank" but not with the key turned "off" or to "accessory".

Adding a relay and wiring as you describe will work just fine. "I" think it's more complexity and expense than you actually need, but if having a relay trips your trigger...go for it.

Replacing the resistor wire with non-resistor wire is the cleanest solution, not overly expensive...but most folks won't open up the bulkhead connector to do a proper job of removing the original wire.

[Kell]

I'm having a little trouble with my conversion (1970 firebird). I have the fuse block pulled in the car so I can see the back, the place that says "IGN" on the block has nothing there, no place to attach a lead to on the front of back. Maybe I am looking at this wrong, there is a hole there but no blade, or even anything behind it where there has ever been one.

So, do I tap into the ignition wire under the steering column? I have no wiring diagram to go by, I can't even tell which wire is the resistor wire once it goes into that block attached to the back of the fuse block. It's very cramped under the dash on the firebird, I can barely get to the back of the fuse block.

Any advice on running a source for the HEI? maybe I missed something in the above posts?

thanks

[70temp455]

I can't ever find anything when I need it.
I know the first wiring diagran I found online was for a 69 Firebird.
I'll have to look to see if I saved a copy of the image, If you need it.
Andy

[Kell]

Got my HEI in tonight thanks to 70temp455

found the exact wire I needed to hook into, made a lot more since with a diagram.

Kept my points resistor wire (don't know why?) and had it coiled up on the top of the firewall with the end taped up, forgot about it after I set my timing and was taking the car for a test drive, shut the hood, backed out of the garage and smoke billowed from under the hood!

When I shut the hood it pinched the wire and grounded on the metal, burnt all the insulation off and was still red hot when I popped the hood, so that eliminated the wire permanently! can't be too careful.

anyway, thanks for the help!