[wbnapier]

I dropped everything off at the machinist today. The owner is out of town until Friday, and the guys want to wait until he's returned to open it up. Smart.

On another note, I didn't notice, but one of the forum members here mentioned that my thrust bearing had turned and was no longer even with the cap-to-block seam. Photos attached. That is a good eye.

Edit - This forum is great and I learn a lot. Thank you all for commenting... I'll update the thread when I hear back from the machinist.

[Mike Davis]

In the second picture it looks like the rod on the far right is installed with the radius side to the inside not facing the crank side. And the same with the rod on the left closest to the thrust cap in the first pic. May just be the picture.

[wbnapier]

Originally Posted by Mike Davis

In the second picture it looks like the rod on the far right is installed with the radius side to the inside not facing the crank side. And the same with the rod on the left closest to the thrust cap in the first pic. May just be the picture.

I see that too... I hope it is just the photo angle. I can't imagine messing that up, but I can't rule it out without the block here to verify. There was a clear offset, big vs. small, on the crank end of the rods and yes one end faced the crank and the other the abutting connecting rod.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by Mike Davis

In the second picture it looks like the rod on the far right is installed with the radius side to the inside not facing the crank side. And the same with the rod on the left closest to the thrust cap in the first pic. May just be the picture.

Originally Posted by wbnapier

I see that too...

Bunch of after market rods are made like that. And the wide side/narrow side isn't consistant in a set of rods. Looks wrong when they're installed right.

Been talked about before on here
Clay

[Mike Davis]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

Bunch of after market rods are made like that. And the wide side/narrow side isn't consistant in a set of rods. Looks wrong when they're installed right.

Been talked about before on here
Clay

Yes I realize that, I have probably installed over 100 sets of aftermarket rods.
But these pics still don't look right.

[NeighborsComplaint]

Originally Posted by wbnapier

I see that too... I hope it is just the photo angle. I can't imagine messing that up, but I can't rule it out without the block here to verify. There was a clear offset, big vs. small, on the crank end of the rods and yes one end faced the crank and the other the abutting connecting rod.

Me 3 but hard to say without seeing the machined face of the rod. Chamfer side towards fillet, flat side towards rod on shared journal always.

[llwta76]

Originally Posted by wbnapier

I see that too... I hope it is just the photo angle. I can't imagine messing that up, but I can't rule it out without the block here to verify. There was a clear offset, big vs. small, on the crank end of the rods and yes one end faced the crank and the other the abutting connecting rod.

Just curious... after installing the rotating assembly what kind of torque reading did you get when spinning it ? Did you use oil or assembly lube for the bearings, etc? Larry

[wbnapier]

Yes, I used assembly lube. The machinist gave me a little tin of red and a little tin of yellow. He gave me instructions on which to use for wrist pins, rods, and mains. I also had a can of redline, and two lubes (one dry and one wet) from Total Seal for pistons and bore. The dry stuff for the bores was cool. The wrist pins used double spiro-lox on each side. I cut my hands to pieces, but it was easy assembling them. My 10-yeard old daughter had to stand there and hand me bandaid after bandaid in the kitchen.

I also drissled some break in oil down the crank and counterweigths. The engine was primed twice, once as an assembled long block and again in the car. I had a mechanical oil gauge hooked up.

Yes to the beam torque wrench on the crank. I don't remember the rotational torque needed to spin, but it was good. From memory of the feel, 18-22 ft.lbs. The whole assembly rotated beautifuly in the shortblock with the one-piece RMS in.

As a postive side note, the engine didn't leak a drop of oil or coolant.

[dataway]

Curious ... how much run time was on the engine before it saw it's first shake down drive on the street? Was the street drive the first time it saw any substantial rpm?

[wbnapier]

Originally Posted by dataway

Curious ... how much run time was on the engine before it saw it's first shake down drive on the street? Was the street drive the first time it saw any substantial rpm?

I had it idle two times, for about 15-20 minutes each time in my driveway. Then I drove around the block, maybe 3 mins.

Yes, this was the first real drive with any RPM. I got up to 4K on the freeway.

[61-63]

You may have answered this or stated it somewhere above but did you use plastigauge on every main journal when you put the thing together? I'm asking for my own benefit here. I've put a couple of Pontiac engines together but not a nice one like that. But am about to. I really feel for you man!

[wbnapier]

Originally Posted by 61-63

You may have answered this or stated it somewhere above but did you use plastigauge on every main journal when you put the thing together? I'm asking for my own benefit here. I've put a couple of Pontiac engines together but not a nice one like that. But am about to. I really feel for you man!

Yes, I used plasti-gauge. I know it gets a bad rap by some, but it is user friendly. I have a set of outside micrometers and a dialbore gauge, but the plasti-gauge was easier.

[F ROCK]

one bad lifter can leave alot of metal

I hope there is minimal damage

[dataway]

Whatever happens ... don't be discouraged about assembling an engine. Although, the farther an engine is removed from a stock condition, the more experience and expertise is needed. Not just because aftermarket parts have quirks that experience will spot, but because the engine is going to be stressed beyond it's designed range and that usually requires an additional level of knowledge and attention.

Personally I'm pretty confident assembling a stock engine but when HP gets up above 450 these engines become a different animal that requires a different skill set. When you find out what the problem was ... dive right back in and make it right. Although you can put me in the micrometer camp .... I can't get plastigage to work for sheeet.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Was the block line honed?
Did you seat the thrust and check end play during assembly?

[wbnapier]

Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD

Was the block line honed?
Did you seat the thrust and check end play during assembly?

Yes, but a very light line hone. Just a touch.

For seating the thrust bearing, I used a dead blow hammer and gave a couple of whacks from both sides. My machinist didn't think this was necessary and gave me an explanation of why, but I forget the details.

Yes, I measured endplay and it was withing spec, but I am at work and don't have the notes.

[tekuhn]

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[GTOEARL]

Read every entry in this blog. Very interesting information and very unfortunate for you. I hope it’s an easy fix. Obviously you’ve heard from a lot of people and a lot of different scenarios of what might’ve happened. Hopefully it’s a spun bearing that allowed the crank to move just a bit to kiss those spark plugs.. The very best of luck for you in solving this issue..

[WARPATHWARRIOR]

Nice car man. Keep your chin up you're gonna get threw it get it out..Good Luck I would switch out those 48 heads for 6x-4. I might be able to help you.

[WARPATHWARRIOR]

Probably a piston to valve problem.