["QUICK-SILVER"]

Feel like in my younger daze I could hear and feel every tooth of a ring and pinion when they meshed. Wouldn't call it a rumble but definately a noise.

Any slack in bearings, carrier or pinion, could have gear teeth touching uncharted territory. That could cause a rumble noise.

Changing carrier bearings and going back with original shims shouldn't change mesh and backlash at all. Same goes for changing the rear pinion bearing and using the original shim behind it. It won't change pinion depth.

I would add pinion seal, pinion bearings and crush sleeve to that list. Some 30~40 years ago our local chevy dealer had shims to put between the front pinion bearing and crush sleeve. That allowed for a pinion seal replacement without having to pull the diff apart to replace the crush sleeve. That let you torque the pinion nut back tight and was a lot easier than crushing a new crush sleeve.

Other than the crush sleeve fight, Putting cast iron carrier bearing shims back in when they're thick enough to put preload on the carrier bearings can get tricky. Just use a nylon hammer and don't hit them in the middle.

Clay

[dataway]

Thank you very much ... sounds like a plan.

So .. the "gear setup" routine is typically only done to correct a mesh issue, or when installing a new gear set?

I'm optimistic because the gears look nice, and I don't see any slop anywhere, that there isn't any damage to the ring and pinion.

I know what you mean about the gear mesh vs bearing rumble. I'm basing my opinion that it's the bearing on the feeling that the sound I'm hearing is considerably more frequent than the meshing of the teeth. Am I wrong in thinking that on a 100K+ rear end that sat around, mostly outside for 40 years that bearing replacement isn't a bad idea anyway? These parts aren't that expensive, so other than the labor it's not a huge deal.

Thanks again, you've been a lot of help, I was feeling kind of lost on this project.

I know this is a lot to ask ... but could you guys take a look at Rock Auto, and give me an idea of what bearing kit you would purchase to do this job? Something that includes carrier bearings, pinion bearings, seal, crush sleeve etc. (don't think I will need any shims, but will get them if the opinion is that I should). It's a 1968 GTO 8.2 (2.93) open diff.
Hate to be annoying ... but I see a LOT of stuff there, lot of brands and combinations. Other than Timken bearings I don't recognize much as far as quality brands or sources.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

"gear setup" Would be for new gears or gears with zero wear. 100K+ gears is gonna have some wear. I wouldn't want to change that wear pattern at all.

To inspect an inner bearing race, the cage pretty much has to be trashed. In any language that means replace the bearing.

The last install kit I bought came from Richmond with a new set of 4.10s for a 12 bolt. Can't help with the Rock Auto

Clay

[dataway]

Rock sells the Richmond Gear kits, so that information helps.

I'm guessing I need to count axle splines before I order a side/spider gear kit.

I know I'm drawing this out ... but I tend to approach the unknown very cautiously

[mrennie]

If you haven't already pulled the carrier, it would be a good idea to measure backlash with a dial indicator so you know what it currently is.

You may not need to touch the shims but if you change bearings and the contact points change on the gears, it could be a new source of noise. Knowing the existing backlash will be one way to confirm if anything has changed once you replace the bearings.

[dataway]

So by "backlash" we are talking about how far the pinion rotates before contacting the ring gear (or vice versa)?

Would I set up the indicator on the pumpkin and indicate off a tooth on the ring gear?

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by dataway

So by "backlash" we are talking about how far the pinion rotates before contacting the ring gear (or vice versa)?

Would I set up the indicator on the pumpkin and indicate off a tooth on the ring gear?

(or vice versa)? Would be correct. How far the ring gear rocks up and down.

Yes on setting up the dial indicator.

All should work out the same using the factory cast iron shims.

Clay

[dataway]

Thank you.

Wow, I'm having a heck of a time finding a name brand set of spider gears for an 8.2 open diff. Richmond appears to have them for the posi diffs, but not for the open.

I can get a set of Auburn spiders gears/cross shaft without the side gears.

I can get a full set with side gears from "East Coast Gear Supply" ... no idea who actually makes them.

Is it ever advisable to replace just the spider gears without also replacing the side gears? Visually it appears most of the slop in my diff is coming from the actual spider gears rather than the side gears. But of course hard to tell for sure.

[JSchmitz]

I would look around for a good used carrier, gears, or whole rear. I also wouldn't put a ton of time or money in a non-posi 2-series 8.2 BOP rear.

[400 Lemans]

http://www.jdrace.com/ Call Monzaz. He sells new and good used parts. He is very popular on the olds and buick forums and he does differentials etc for a living. Check out his forum page.

[mrennie]

I'm thinking that mission creep may apply here. If you find that any of the open carrier parts are in need of replacement and hard to find, a swap to a limited slip may just make sense all around and then you will have to decide on reusing old gears vs a new set in another ratio.

I have no doubt you could set up a set of gears yourself, you have the skill for sure.

[dataway]

In this case originality trumps cost. I've owned the car since 1976 so I'll spend a few bucks to keep the original rear end.

Since nothing is broken, and nothing appears to be in really poor shape I'm not sure replacing this used unit with another used unit of unknown history would be the best move for me. There is no metal in the pumpkin, no mangled teeth, side gears look decent, spiders seem worn, ring and pinion look great.

I do see complete spider/side gear sets for sale ... but with no "name brand" attached to them. Like these:

https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-19...28-spline.html

No idea where they are actually made, or who makes them.

Just looking to cover all my bases, could be new carrier and pinion bearings will quiet it down, could be the just pinion nut needs to be tightened and it just feels tight because the nut is frozen. I'm pretty sure the spiders/side gears that are in it aren't going to self destruct any time soon.

Currently my issue is .... do I just replace the spiders with something like an Auburn gear product, or do I replace the spiders AND side gears with a product like seen in the link above.

mrennie ... it's a shame it's not a posi ... those parts are easy to find. The original ratio (2.93) also seems very hard to find. I'm hesitating to replace the whole carrier when the needed parts are so .. well, small and inexpensive ... if they can be found. If I knew parts like the East Coast Gear linked above were any good I'd buy them in a heartbeat and problem solved (well as far as parts go). But yes ... I was eyeballing complete posi units Although I have no need for a posi.

[400 Lemans]

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...p-diff-117226/ I think the Eastcoast link is probably for chevy 8.2 spiders. There is some differences. I think the cross pin is a different size for the spiders also. Look on post #5 in this link at what monzaz says.

[dataway]

Originally Posted by 400 Lemans

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...p-diff-117226/ I think the Eastcoast link is probably for chevy 8.2 spiders. There is some differences. Look on post #5 in this link at what monzaz says.

Yes, I think you are correct. And looking at the other places I "thought" I could get the spiders ... pretty sure those are for the NON-BOP 8.2s also.

Thank you, that's saves me buying the wrong parts.

OK, that puts a new spin on things, looks like I will retain the somewhat worn original spiders ... since they don't appear to be shedding any metal, and I'll replace all the bearings, reassemble and see what happens. Or if I think they are bad enough on further inspection I'll contact Monzaz (J D Race) and see what he's got, perhaps someone is making those gears in the six years since that post.

Worst comes to worst ... I'll replace the whole carrier with some fancy new part

[dataway]

Would you guys recommend me getting a "Bearing Splitter" type tool set to remove the carrier bearings, or the "Clam Shell" type bearing removal tool set?

I hear the clam shell type works better, but has a much more limited general shop use, whereas I can always use the "splitter" type around the farm. (can't believe I don't already have one).

I could cut the bearings, but I never really cared for that process.

[PunchT37]

Originally Posted by dataway

Would you guys recommend me getting a "Bearing Splitter" type tool set to remove the carrier bearings, or the "Clam Shell" type bearing removal tool set?

I hear the clam shell type works better, but has a much more limited general shop use, whereas I can always use the "splitter" type around the farm. (can't believe I don't already have one).

I could cut the bearings, but I never really cared for that process.

You`ll need a press for that. If you have a torch, heat the bearing evenly around. Then, pry it up.

[PunchT37]

To install, "poor man`s way", put the bearings in an oven at 450 to 500 degrees, and put the carrier, or pinion gear in the freezer. Most times, the bearings will slip right on ,or, with light tapping on the inner race, with a punch, you`re there.

[68 Firebird]

When I redid my low mileage rear(bearings were noisy). I purchased the
Auburn posi from Monzaz(great guy to deal with) came with bearings already mounted on
carrier and yes did the freezer/oven trick to get bearing on pinion. went this route
to upgrade from open carrier to posi and reuse original gears. did this over 10 years
ago an no issues. set back lash exactly to same spec as original open carrier.
my gears had only 70,000 miles and liked the highway nature and good MPG!!!

Gerry

[Shiny]

I bought my parts from Tom's in Idaho many years ago. When I called, they knew exactly what parts I needed for my axle and were quite familiar with variations among different 8.2 variants that weren't obvious when searching other suppliers' catalogs.

I recommend calling them. They might even be able to diagnose your noise or guide you on assessing the condition of your gears and bearings.

I don't see spider gears in their catalog and they target performance upgrades but I was happy with their knowledge and the quality of their parts.

Link to Tom's Differentials Web Site

Here's their online catalog:

Link to Tom's Catalog

Mike

[mrennie]

Originally Posted by dataway

Would you guys recommend me getting a "Bearing Splitter" type tool set to remove the carrier bearings, or the "Clam Shell" type bearing removal tool set?

I hear the clam shell type works better, but has a much more limited general shop use, whereas I can always use the "splitter" type around the farm. (can't believe I don't already have one).

When I built my 12 bolt I used a bearing splitter similar to the one linked below to remove the pinion bearing. I could have used it on the carrier bearings as well but the carrier had 2 relief cuts below the side bearings which allowed a regular 2 jaw puller to be used.

https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-57BS5-B...1722175&sr=8-5