[longboard]

Anyone know if drilled and slotted rotors are available for 1969 big car? (69 cat wag)

Many and often thanks!

[longboard]

Anyone know if drilled and slotted rotors are available for 1969 big car? (69 cat wag)

Many and often thanks!

[longboard]

Okay, okay I can take a hint. Given that there have been no responses means either 1) there are no such rotors, or 2) no one knows of any. I spent hours surfing the net and found none. So I pose this question: Why can't I have them built? We're dealing with simple geometry, right? Why can't a machine shop simply drill and slot whatever rotors I give them?

Am I being too naive?

Deane

[Donovan]

I've read into this process some and it appears to be a waste of time. That is if you're doing it for function....

Explanation I have come to understand goes like this: Used to be the pads were made of materials that created a lot of gas when used. The cross drilled and vaned type rotor was done to allow this gas and heat to escape better. Appearantly this is really only for race-primary use. It has been explained that in daily driven use there will be a tendency to crack outward from the drilled holes. We now have superior materials that do not benefit from putting a "blood groove" in the rotor.

I've followed a lot of this on the LS1 Type email lists and forums, most of the guys that get drilled rotors end up with cracked rotors.

So in short, not worth the effort. Unless you just want to look flashy.

[sixtee8gto]

maybe this site will help... not sure if the rotors are drilled.
http://www.mpbrakes.com/5570chevydisc.HTM

['ol Pinion head]

NICE thick '68 1/2-70 big Pontiac rotors are near impossible to find in old brake parts stocks. As mentioned above, drilling holes in them would serve nothing other than to start the formation of cracks. With pairs of NORS rotors (made in the 70's)bringing $400-$550 a pair + shipping (when one can find them), might rethink things.

Edit...See masterpower has 'em udrilleddrilled" for the friendly price of $295...

a rotor

[Txbobcat]

Py is selling them for loke $225 I believe now

[longboard]

Wow, have I got up the creek without any means of propulsion. All jacked up and no place to go.

You're all correct, 1) there ain't no rotors (MP wants $1099ea for rotors, calipers, and spindle) PY wants $355 each. And 2) drill and slot is apparently just for looks especially if you use the new ceramic pads.

I can't tell you all how much I appreciate this site especially being a retro beginner at this car building thing.

I'll check with masterpower. Thanks guys!

dino

[longboard]

Another question related to the rotors.

Is there anyway of finding out what later years would fit? Even if it means relacing the spindle. Is there some source that cross references parts and years?

(I hope that's not one of those really dumb questions)

dino

[mike nixon]

my ? to this would be, can a person take the more popular late 70's early 80's b-body spindles and rotors/ calipers and install them on the older cars?

if so this would solve the pricing issues.

i've not worked on many of the pre 72 fullsize cars to know but it would seem to be a good thought.

mike

[Dave A]

I HAVE seen some benefit to crossdrilling rotors - a slight improvement in brake output at higher temperatures, and a slight improvement in cooling at higher speeds. The improvement in high-temperature output appears to be somewhat brake lining-specific - some linings like crossdrilling, others do not.

Crossdrilling does increase the risk of cracking.

Personally, I wouldn't bother with the crossdrilling - you'll get more performance benefit and none of the drawbacks spending your $$ on larger brakes and/or better calipers (bearing in mind larger brakes may require larger wheels).

[Pontiacmuscle]

Mike, Check front Bearing sizes between the '69 Wagon and a '70 Bonneville; you may be able to use '70 Bonneville rotors and keep your spindles. Otherwise you may have to swap to a later spindle which is a bolt-in (ie from the Bonneville etc)
As far as the crossdrilled rotors; Ive used the powerstop croosdrilled rotors on a '90' something Lincoln with Performance Friction 911 Brakepads and saw a dramatic decrease in stopping distance, better pedal feel and less fade. I picked the rotors up through Summit for about $85 each and if they dont have the listing they can give you the 800 # for Powerstop. If anyone has any actual experience to share, Id love to hear it.

[longboard]

Well here I sit broken hearted . . . .

I bought a set of rotors from MP for $295 each!! And guess what. They don't fit a wagon. I'll get my money back but I still got a car that's all jacked up and no place to go.

How can I tell what spindles will fit(such as 1970 Bonneville) so I can put on new brakes?

Is it just the bearing size? And who do you ask for the specs?

Sorry guys for dragging this out, but if I don't find brakes this project is dead in its tracks. (no puns intened)

Desparate!!!

Deane

[Pontiacmuscle]

Use the bearings off your '69 Wagon rotor and check them against '70 Bonneville Bearings w disc brakes. I dont THINK they're different. Lemme know how you progress.

[longboard]

Update

Sorry to report bad news . Too date I have not found a solution. No one has remanufactured rotors, and according to the Hollander manual, 69-70 big car rotors are on their own, meaning no other years cross over. Also according to Hollander, 67-70 spindles apparently are interchangeable(still checking), but it probably won't matter as no one makes rotors for those years. Hmmmmm, I am reminded of the term "all chrome and no go" or "if it don't go chrome it"

Problem is, my wife doesn't it makes a very pretty lawn ornament

[1970cat]

your best chance is to try and find usable used rotors( ones that can still be turned) in a salvage yard. i would try to stay away from specialty yards if you are concerned about price, because they know what they have and what they are worth.

[zomsteve]

longboard, I believe that the spindles on your big Pontiac are not easily repalced with the 70's or 80's spindles. the reason being that the ball joints on your car (upper and lower) both point down. the later spindles the upper points down and the lower points up.

[mike nixon]

ok my next ? in this situation would be can the control arms be swapped out to a later model piece?

if so this may solve your problem.

have you checked truck parts yet?

the 5x5 bolt pattern was also used on trucks so maybe there's a solution in that area.

mike

[zomsteve]

mike, I just checked my '65 cat lower arm with a '84 chevy trk. it looks real close but I know that the wheel stops would have to be relocated. not sure about the shock through the arm or if there's enough room to put the sway bar end link at the correct position