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wbnapier · 08-01-2023, 11:58 AM

I lost my clutch driving home last night and this morning found the reason. See the attached photo.

Not sure how this happens. Bad geometry or metal fatigue?

Fortunately I was close to home and in gear, so I limped home running stop signs and what not.

Should I have it welded or source an orignal?

limejudge69 · 08-01-2023, 12:16 PM

Support PY and buy this one
https://www.amesperf.com/parts/searc...965&term=Z+bar

Scarebird · 08-01-2023, 01:34 PM

If buying the Ames piece, check fitment of the pivot ball frame side - on mine they welded it after machining so it would not turn.

Sirrotica · 08-01-2023, 01:57 PM

Not the first time I've seen this happen, usually the welds on that part look like a 12 YO kid tried to weld them up. A good welder can make it better than new, and maybe put a reinforcing gusset to assure it won't fail there again. That's how I've dealt with this type of breakage previously, your car, your choice.

camerjeff · 08-01-2023, 02:57 PM

Its been 20+ years sense I have had that same failure on my 67 Lemans. I ordered a New Repop version and ended up sending it back, It would have taken more work to make it fit correctly than just repairing the original one. They may have improved in quality in the last couple of decades, but the issues I had were the internal parts where the block ball swivel mounted, it had no surface for the ball end to ride on, and the angle of the clutch pushrod bracket, It was noticeably different than the original on my 67.

I was happy with the repair, and it work well for 20,000 miles and 15 years until I sold the car.

sdbob · 08-01-2023, 03:52 PM

I've done like Sirottica said. ( Owner put used racing clutch and pressure plate in 63 GP back in the early 70s when I bought it,my right leg got stronger. )Clean out all the grease. Refit,ck angle, tack weld. Try fitment. Then remove and weld with a little angle brace securely. Make sure though yours is not worn.

BILL BOWMAN1 · 08-01-2023, 04:32 PM

If it were me, I would build one from scratch. . But in your case I would weld it back together and get some flat stock 1/8” and double up the arm parts, and weld it up solid. But then again, you don’t know how strong the round stock portion is. But surely will be better.

gtorich · 08-01-2023, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scarebird

If buying the Ames piece, check fitment of the pivot ball frame side - on mine they welded it after machining so it would not turn.

I agree with post #2 and try to buy from ames as much as possible............but the above post this stuff shouldn"t be happening............you should not have to spend $89 bucks then rework it when you get it home...............thats just my opinion.

Rich

Scarebird · 08-01-2023, 06:24 PM

I needed to mount it in my lathe and open it up to fit. I did inform Ames of this issue but not a lot they can do other than make their own (too small a market).

I have spend quite a bit at Ames; 90% of my Pontiac specific purchases are with them but as you note I would repair the stock bits and move on. Cleaning and rewelding should suffice here.

Joe-Touring · 08-02-2023, 01:07 AM

I used the Ames z-bar when I converted to a 4 spd. Granted I used a 67 bar which is a different p/n but it’s worked great the last few years. But that’s using all Ames parts, block pivot, frame pivot etc. I did fab the linkage with heims tho.

george kujanski · 08-02-2023, 09:18 AM

Same thing happened to my '67 Lemans. Rewelded and beefed it up. Added rod ends to the wear points in the linkage also.

George

wbnapier · 08-02-2023, 10:42 AM

I welded up the crack and added a small piece of steel to brace it. I'll install it over the weekend.

JSchmitz · 08-02-2023, 10:44 AM

As said, reweld the break and make the c-channel a square. If shipping wasn't so high I'd tell ya to ship it to my house for free repair. I had to weld mine up where the rods elongated the holes. No breakage though.