[mchell]

Been using this for awhile now….get it at Wally World….cheap and it works. Easy on easy off, NO STREAKING


https://www.turtlewax.com/products/c...tailer-26fl-oz

[MIke L]

Go get Meguiars Final Finish #24.
I’ve been using that stuff fir 20+ yrs with no complaints.

IMHO it’s perfect for what you want.




Mike

[Ram Air IV Jack]

Originally Posted by Vid

Ditto on avoiding water unless it’s absolutely necessary. Spray detailers work fine on dust, pollen and those puddle splashes on the fenders. Water is not a friend of the vintage car.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Spot on!! I NEVER flood my car with water and cringe when I see others with classics doing that. You never get all the water out unless you use an air gun and even then, you miss some water. I sponge bath my classic, with a wet Absorber and a clean bucket of water. Keep rinsing it out every panel and there is never enough water on the car to creep into all those cervices that can start rust.

[389]

I put it in the sun and get it hot then put it inside the garage and wash it down with hot water. Tee shirts make the best was rags. then once a month I give it a waxing with Armor All car wax. I get it at the dollar store for a buck a bottle. It is the best car wax I ever used. Well, ever since they quit making Simoniz.

[Riverbird455]

Originally Posted by Ram Air IV Jack

Spot on!! I NEVER flood my car with water and cringe when I see others with classics doing that. You never get all the water out unless you use an air gun and even then, you miss some water. I sponge bath my classic, with a wet Absorber and a clean bucket of water. Keep rinsing it out every panel and there is never enough water on the car to creep into all those cervices that can start rust.

I am glad to hear someone else does this, my neighbor gave me a funny look when I was giving the old bird a sponge bath. I said,.. you know you are either a spoiled old car or in a nursing home when someone gives you a sponge bath.

[geeteeohguy]

I use a California Duster weekly and it works great. If I get caught in the rain (and I do) I get out the car wash soap and a bucket and mitt. NEVER use Dawn or any other dish soap on a car...it will strip off all of the wax and is too harsh. If you must get it wet, use car wash soap only. The detail sprays are great, as well. I maybe have to wash my cars with soap and water every two years at most.

[Spaceman Spiff]

Originally Posted by MUSLCAH

Leafs,pine needles, sand ,and dirt ,sift there way to the bottom of fenders ,under glass moulding, frames, etc. Then over the years they quietly decompose and turn to a dirt form. Now your adding more water ( hose washing) to a bad situation. Why do you think Arizona and California don’t rust ( much ) …?? But to each their own…. I

Because they don’t salt the roads….
If your “ washing” your car with a mit and bucket, unless you tape off the moldings… you are still introducing water into the channels…
Also, if your not getting all the lose dirt and debris off the car, with water pressure, and just washing it with a soapy mitt, you’re grinding that into your paint.

[mzbk2l]

Originally Posted by Spaceman Spiff

Because they don’t salt the roads….

And because we have 6% relative humidity for most of the year.

The big problem out here is drying before the water evaporates and leaves spots. I can't wash in the daytime and I've started using RO water for my rinse so I don't get spots from water drying before I can get to it with The Absorber.

[NeighborsComplaint]

As a long time owner of multiple black and other dark-colored cars, I can speak from experience. "Sponge washing with water" is like running sandpaper over your paint. Dirt just embeds itself in the sponge and you are micro-abrading the paint by doing this. While a sponge may look clean after you squeeze it out, it isn't. Using a clear-coat safe wash concentrate in water and a rinsed cotton-strand wash mitt is the best method along with a full, flooded rinse afterwards. The mitt allows trapped dirt to float between the strands rather than being ground into the paint like a sponge does.

I use the 2 bucket system. One for soap solution, one with clear water to rinse the mitt between soap applications. This removes any dirt trapped on the mitt from contact. You would be surprised how much dirt actually deposits at the bottom of the rinse bucket. Depending on how dirty the car is dictates how often I empty the rinse bucket and replace with clean water.

As mentioned before, the washing solution contains mild surfactants to float the dirt away by decreasing the water's surface tension. It also contains emollients which help restore the wax that may be removed by the surfactants and provides lubricity, lessening the chance for abrading the clearcoat.

I rinse by flooding the surface which floats away the suspended dirt particles. It is also important to pressure rinse behind the window, wheel well and rocker moldings where dirt will accumulate. Trapped dirt holds moisture for long periods of time but water sheets off a clean surface and dries quickly.

Between washes, I use Quick Detail Spray to remove dust and restore. Never wash or detail spray in full sun regardless of what the label on the detail spray says. Your paint is softest and most vulnerable to abrasion when hot to the touch.

[ta man]

Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint

As a long time owner of multiple black and other dark-colored cars, I can speak from experience. "Sponge washing with water" is like running sandpaper over your paint. Dirt just embeds itself in the sponge and you are micro-abrading the paint by doing this. While a sponge may look clean after you squeeze it out, it isn't. Using a clear-coat safe wash concentrate in water and a rinsed cotton-strand wash mitt is the best method along with a full, flooded rinse afterwards. The mitt allows trapped dirt to float between the strands rather than being ground into the paint like a sponge does.

I use the 2 bucket system. One for soap solution, one with clear water to rinse the mitt between soap applications. This removes any dirt trapped on the mitt from contact. You would be surprised how much dirt actually deposits at the bottom of the rinse bucket. Depending on how dirty the car is dictates how often I empty the rinse bucket and replace with clean water.

As mentioned before, the washing solution contains mild surfactants to float the dirt away by decreasing the water's surface tension. It also contains emollients which help restore the wax that may be removed by the surfactants and provides lubricity, lessening the chance for abrading the clearcoat.

I rinse by flooding the surface which floats away the suspended dirt particles. It is also important to pressure rinse behind the window, wheel well and rocker moldings where dirt will accumulate. Trapped dirt holds moisture for long periods of time but water sheets off a clean surface and dries quickly.

Between washes, I use Quick Detail Spray to remove dust and restore. Never wash or detail spray in full sun regardless of what the label on the detail spray says. Your paint is softest and most vulnerable to abrasion when hot to the touch.

I agree..Ive owned black car for decades now. Well said..black cars show all the damage and also teach owners to be carefull and what works and what doesn't! But again it depends on your paint what you can get away with.