[Greg Reid]

For the '68 A body, what's best bang for the buck? Three piece, one piece?...or can I even do a one piece with the quarters on?
I was just about to paint but after really digging into the trunk area, I know I need to bite the bullet and undo what the previous owner did...and do it before I paint..
That means replacing the entire pan.

[jim darlington]

One piece , hands down .

[benchracerx]

I had to do my 64 with the 3 pc set.1pc was to big to go in thru the trunk.

[Greg Reid]

I was thinking one piece too Jim, but I read the description and it doesn't sound like it's doable with everything in place. I'd hate to spend all that money on a one piece and have to cut it!
I do hate to think about doing all the seam welding though...
It's a shame the previous owner replaced the entire center section but he BRAZED it on to the old pan...right on top of it...The original really wasn't all that bad. He really could have replaced one outside piece and fixed the rest but now it's a mess and all has to come out.

[Squidward]

Ugh. worst ergonomic nightmare ever. And I only did the "bathtub".

[Greg Reid]

Yeah...I know it. That's why I almost allowed the previous owner's 'work' to go unchanged...but I couldn't do it. I know it's now or never. I started cutting yesterday but I'd better wait until I get the new one.

[68lemansman]

I just redone my whole trunk pan and I used three piece. I would say three piece cause you can modify the fit without ruining the original look on the trunk pan!

[PontGuy]

Ugggghhh, what a job.

That was the first big repair that I did on my car when I got started a few years ago. Like you I had to undo a previous owner's "repair" which consisted of a heavy piece of sheet metal bent sort of to shape and tack welded to the original pan.

I put in a 3-piece because I needed to go up over the shock tower on one side and a 1-piece was not going to fit through the opening. I also had to replace one of the side drops and patch one of the fender wells and I figured the 3-piece would make it easier to fit everything up. Welding up the middle seams was not that big a deal... well, not that big a deal compared to all the prep work and cutting, fitting, and welding the perimeter to the original steel.

If all you need is the bottom of the pan and you can get it through the trunk then a 1-piece is probably easier. But if you have a serious mess then the 3-piece will probably work out better. Here are a few pics showing what I did.

[2002Z4CSS]

Trunk floor turned out nice! I need to replace mine on my 1971 GT-37 one day.

[Greg Reid]

Yeah, that looks really good. I think I'll have to replace about the same amount. I could save some of it but in the end, it'll be just as much work but just slightly less money.
I think it'd be smarter to just replace all three pieces.

[PontGuy]

Greg I have a big box of Cleco pins and pliers that you are welcome to borrow. They turned out to be really handy for this sort of job, and I hope to never have to use them again. I bet that I installed and then removed the pans to make adjustments at least 50 times before I was satisfied with the fit.

Walt

[keith h]

Hi Greg,
How is the area above the rear axle? If it needs attention you might want to opt for the Dynacorn full panel that includes the body bracing and all, I just completed my trunk with that very panel and yes you can install it with the quarters and wheel houses on the car, I had the three piece panels and they didn't have the correct angle where the panels met up at the rear axle pan,, it looked like crap, the one piece full panel has the exact shape of the original pan, no seams to grind ,,no bondo in the trunk to cover the weld, I am very pleased with the results it's the way to go http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1968-...item5197ea07bd
I can post the before and after photo's if you like

[6869GTO]

keith h ,you get the one piece with braces in with body on frame or off ? Would like to see some pics.

[keith h]

Originally Posted by 6869GTO

keith h ,you get the one piece with braces in with body on frame or off ? Would like to see some pics.

You need to remove all the rear body cushions and bolts, I loosened the front mounts then used two floor jacks under each rocker in front of the rear wheel to jack the body up a few inches just enough to slide the panel into position (with help from a friend), once in position I reinstalled the body cushions and bolts but not tightened to 20 ft.lbs this way if I needed to adjust the panel and align things I had room to do so, Once everything was properly aligned all that was left to do was spot weld the panel in, I will post some photos tomorrow.

[PontGuy]

The center where the pan goes over the axle did not match the body on my car either.

At the time I figured it was because my car is a vert and there is no hump over the axle because that's where the top pump mounts. But luckily the original steel was solid up there, except for the end over the shock mount on the drivers side, and new steel matched up there perfectly. It also took some work to get it pulled together at the tank filler neck area for some reason. Otherwise the fit was good.

Instead of bondo I used SEM 2-part panel adhesive to fill any gaps that remained after welding, then finished it with 2-part self leveling seam sealer. This worked good and it probably added some strength, at least that was the idea.

No doubt there are several ways to skin this particular cat and I don't know which is really best. But I don't think any of them are exactly painless. I'm just glad that I got through the job and it turned out as nice as it did.

When you get through all the metal work the Parts Place has the correct water-proof splatter paint to finish it off with the original look.

Walt

[Greg Reid]

Well, this information is exactly why I haven't ordered anything yet. I want to do this ONE time and have it right. My experience with aftermarket sheet metal is that it's a pain and doesn't always satisfy me the way I'd like...but no alternatives when it comes to a trunk pan. I can't imagine using a donor trunk pan. Half the work is removing it.
My car's sheetmetal is solid over the axle but I really would prefer less seam welding..which means single panel is preferred even though cost is higher..
I'd love to see as many pics as you guys have.

jim darliington, didn't mean to dismiss your suggestion either. I'd be interested in your experience with the one piece. Fit ok? Quarters on or off? etc.
I have quite a bit of clamping and etc. for welding panels PontGuy...no Clecos though. I've been using 'other' methods.

[keith h]

Hi Greg, As I said in my previous post I had the 3 piece and wasn't pleased at all the best thing I did with my trunk is plasma cut the 3 piece panels and braces out and go with the one piece, If you want more photo's or have any other questions just ask.

[keith h]

Originally Posted by keith h

You need to remove all the rear body cushions and bolts, I loosened the front mounts then used two floor jacks under each rocker in front of the rear wheel to jack the body up a few inches just enough to slide the panel into position (with help from a friend), once in position I reinstalled the body cushions and bolts but not tightened to 20 ft.lbs this way if I needed to adjust the panel and align things I had room to do so, Once everything was properly aligned all that was left to do was spot weld the panel in, I will post some photos tomorrow.

These photos are just after the panel was slid in place and body cushions and bolts loose once adjusted and measurements corresponded I started spotting the panel in

[keith h]

Don't know if you can see this but the complete panel has a lip and attaches like the factory panel all I had to do is use my air punch and make the holes to spot the panel in, in my opinion I it fit perfectly, no visible welds only the trunk latch where it gets spotted to the floor, nothing to grind ,no bondo in the trunk only seam sealer. more expensive: Yes but definitely worth it

[PontGuy]

Keith, I have to admit that pan does look like it went in very nicely.