[pontiacmark]

Need to file fit the rings for my engine build and looking for an inexpensive tool as I will probably only use for this build. Looking on Sunnit, I see mixed reviews for their manual tools and the Performance Tool setup. What would you use for a one off build but to do it "right."

[rwfisher]

I use one of the PRO Form manual crank models. Instead of using the manual crank I attach a variable speed drill to spin it. If you use one with a locking trigger it allows you to free up a hand to have both to square up ring. Just have to work slow then manually de burr end.

[Dragncar]

Just remember the 2nd ring is softer than the top and if you use the same amount of turns on the bottom as the top your gap might be larger than you want.
Go slow, check and re check.

[Gach]

When your Measuring for ring Gap, just in case you don’t already know. Take a piston and put a ring on it, place your ring in the cylinder at very top, then use the piston with the ring on to push that top ring down, that makes sure the ring is Square in the block, then use feeler gauges and sneak up on the gap. Do the same for second ring gap. It’s very tedious and time-consuming, Don’t use the amount of turns, method you will definitely screw it up. Make sure you file the ends real good. Also make sure you crank in same Direction every time.

Two things will happen if you don’t follow this Method, you’ll end up with bad ring seal, and cylinder walls scored by rings.

[67Fbird]

another TIP:
take 1 ring and drop in hole #1, square it up, measure it. Then write it down example .008 feeler
Next
take that SAME ring and install in EACH cylinder and measure them. This will give you an idea of which hole is small vs big. (remember .001 on diameter is .003 on a feeler gap)
NOW ...start gapping your rings in the BIGGEST HOLE FIRST!!! that way when you blow past the number you wanted....you can move to a smaller hole!
Also a good idea if you are NOT ready to assemble pistons/rings/combo YET. label some sandich bags and put your rings in them so as to not get them mixed up.

Lastly...read the directions on which ring is which 1st, second UP, DOWN. seems each maker has a "special" way of marking them.

[mgarblik]

If you are file fitting rings for a single engine, I would buy yourself a nice quality mill file like a Nicholson and just file them by hand. Gently file one end from the outside in and de-burr the edges. Close the gap carefully by hand to verify you are filing the gap straight. It's a pretty easy process and you can file 16 rings in an hour to hour and a half. And you have a file for other stuff when you are done. No reason to buy a special tool for one engine. I have filed hundreds and hundreds of rings this way. Very important to file for at least the minimum gap recommended. DO NOT have the gap too tight. If you make a slight mistake and the gap is .002-.003 over the minimum, not an issue. Install them and move on. If you make a huge mistake and a gap is .006" or more than minimum, then you may need a new ring. With a hand file, it's pretty hard to be that careless. Have fun with it.

[Tim Corcoran]

I have one similar to the one on Butler's site and have it works fine and you can get replacement cutting wheels.

This is the one I have and it works just fine

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/8051...6%20Components

[HWYSTR455]

All great comments above!

I don't use a piston with a ring on it to square the piston though, not sure how much impact that has on the finished result, I never had issues without the ring on the piston.

Always use the manufacturer's recommended gap that is stated in the instructions that accompany the rings you are using, period. They can vary from brand to brand and across diff materials.

I always gap to the first step for N2O, most have that at a 150hp shot. Not only does that allow you to run nitrous, it provides a level of safety in extreme conditions.

You can, or if you do, overshoot the desired gap, not to fret, there is very little impact at small increments. Having all the gaps the same is more important than having too large a gap. Most think they will 'leak' or it will 'smoke', but you REALLY have to overshoot by a LOT for that to happen.

The 'best' ring grinders are not cheap, and since I personally didn't do too many engine in short periods of time, used the manual crank models like Tim posted. I know it's a pain but go slow and take your time, the results are totally acceptable.

To deburr after filing/grinding, I always used a small whet stone, but fine jewelers files work too.

Make sure to check all the pistons' ring lands too, for any crap, and deburr as required.


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