[NBF823]

Same Nissan engine that had the thrust problem. I got the block and crank back from the machine shop. Both magged, cleaned, and cut.

Question; I didn't have them touch the bores or the deck yet, as I don't have pistons. Pistons are only sold off the shelf at .020 and .040. My only method of measurement is snap gauges and mic. I don't really trust my measurements, and everything seems to be stock bore with just normal wear. Should I order .020 or .040? What would you do if it were yours? I probably won't get the bores cut till some time in the future as I'm close to out of funds, but I want to buy the pistons now because I think the future parts supply for this thing may be not so good - remember I had to weld the crank as another wansnt available.

I greased the block, wrapped in a bag, and put it to sleep for awhile.

[sleepy]

Have the block checked aand see if you can go .20 or if you have to go .40.
No sence spending money on .20s if you have to bore the block .40.
You might even be able to use the std bore and just put a cross hatch in them for std or .10 rings. How much lip was in the cylinders at the deck?

[mechanickeith]

Buy a set of each! One set for now & one for the future. If the supply does dry up like you think it will, you will be $$$ ahead. Even if you dont use the second set, someone will want them. Then you can ask what you want!!

[NBF823]

Sleepy; I couldn't measure any variance at the top of the bore, not with the snap gauge method. There was a tap required to get pistons/rings past the first time, but I think it was mostly carbon. When the block came back after tank, I could find no difference in the bore - no lip that I could find. But when I locked the snap, it gave me pretty constant tension in moving it around, till sideways in #4, so I locked it there and measured again, but found about the same 3.50~5. I gotta buy a real bore gauge with a dial I think; I just don't like this snap thing, I just keep double checking till I doubt everything I measured. I should double check the ridge again though, but I rebuilt another 80s Nissan 4 with about 100,000 mi a while back cause it wouldnt smog, that one that I worried a lot less about, that one I found similar wear behavior - I just reemed the ridge, honed and put the stock pistons back in; most of wear seemed to be rings and at the valve stem - needing knurled, then it blew clean.

Mechanickeith; I'd love to buy a set of both, not for profit, but just cause I'm hoarder and itd put my mind at ease. But I don't have the extra fund for that right now, and also I think it's one of those things where the rarity goes along with the demand. Yes they're hard to get parts for, but mainly cause very few in have the engine to need parts for.

The new pistons are forged 8:1 units. The stock pistons that came out are 9:1. Those 9:1 probably aren't going back in there - they're neither here nor there for aluminum head atmo or turbo build.

[Cammer-6]

have the machine shop check for taper
you cant do a good job of that using a snap guage

[NBF823]

Thanks for the replies guys.

It's greatly appreciated as this thing has been nothing but a costly nightmare so far.

Small rant ahead;

No one on the sites that pertain to the motor really wants to talk(aussies), and even if the japs talk, no one can understand them. Honestly you guys have responded the most - Thanks again.

The machine shop that welded the crank cut every journal on the crank .025. I picked up the crank and block, which were magged with the only bearings in the us that would fit with minor fitting from what I read; L18 bearings. The bearings were still in the vacuum wrap so they were never fitted in the block, nor the crank. Now I'm no machinist, but I suspect welding and cutting a thrust for bearings, that Pretty Much fit, should be, oh I don't know, TEST FITTED maybe!? So right now they're getting the benefit of the doubt that those parts will even fit - anyone else see a possible headache ahead? Here's the genius, which is really my fault for being so crammed on time; this crank, has never been in that block while in my possession. I sort of trust the seller, but really there is a slight chance in the back of my mind - this isn't even a Nissan crank much less an FJ crank. But I'll fit it this weekend or next maybe. And I'll stop there with the crank, because like i said, these guys who did the crank work may have it spot-on in fitment. And there's more to, like $110 more than quoted when done on the phone, but I couldn't leave work, sent my dad, and I didn't give him enough money - it's $110 more told my dad to cover it, and I paid him immediately apon return.

I ordered the timing chains through a seller in CA from Japan. I PayPal my money, it goes, and in a few days I got parts shipped confirmation and tracking number from ups. I track the thing. It hits my door yesterday, needs a signature, and I missed it. There's a missed shipment sticker on the door, so I sign the back, and write my neigbors address; my uncle, retired, home all day. Today, he says the ups truck drove right by. I check the tracking again and the shipper diverted it back to CA. What the he**. I call guy in CA - no awnser. I email guy in CA - no awnser. I call UPS - just an automated response says delivery on tues IN CA. Where is my $350 timing set going? Am I getting my money back? Am I getting my Chain?

Oh, I think I have .040 wiseco blower pistons coming, maybe .020, but heck if I know, I seem to be on some sort ex-communication list so don't ask; I may either cry or break something.

What's next? The XXX gets wind that its in the US and tries to smelt it into a die cast toyota motor that can't handle 5hp over stock maybe. Or I spend a few grand and hole the block or suck a valve on the dyno - YEA I love my car addiction!

Argh - ok thanks for letting me rant.

[cuz68]

There are a lot of info on. Infamous nissan.com I am a member there, Parts for sale also. Good luck.