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#21
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Personally I would be nervous of doing that with a long oil line going 20 feet under the car with lots of opportunities for stuff to hit the line and either crush it or create a leak that drains all of your oil out of the engine without you knowing it.
The key thing except for pre-lubing the engine) is that you want to oil to immediately go to the engine if you drop oil pressure (like in a turn). Having the tank in the trunk basically does nothing for you in that deal as far as "fast reacting". Tom V.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#22
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Yeah, I know every time I turn the kitchen faucet on I have to wait for the pipe from the water company to fill up again.
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#23
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Quote:
Tom V.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#24
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Got my Accusump today. Thanks Hill461!
One more quick question. Has anyone successfully used the 22-566 sandwich adapter plate they recommend for our cars? I'm just wondering if I should be ready for fitment issues or modifications to make it work, or if its going to spin right on between the filter housing and the filter and be done with it? https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...D-2-58-O-RING/
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-1967 GTO HO Restomod. PKMM 433ci, SilverSport T56 Magnum 6spd, Moser 9", SC&C and a bunch of other pro touring goodies - Build Thread http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...615847&page=23 |
#25
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Not a good thing. If the tank is in the trunk, it will just take up space where the broken engine parts will need to go when the engine's guts are scattered all over the highway.
You want the "REPLACEMENT" oil supply volume to get to the engine immediately if there is a drop in oil pressure to the bearings. Mounting the accusump tank in the trunk would be a very bad idea. Too slow to respond to a drop in oil pressure in the engine. Require you to buy a bunch of extra oil every oil change, possibly overfill the oil pan if you forgot to trap the oil in the accusump tank on shutdown or the electric valve failed, etc. Some say that mounting the accusump tank up by the headlights near the radiator core support is too far away from the engine oil pump. In the trunk area would be way worse. Tom V. I apologize for adding humor to my post.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#26
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Quote:
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-1967 GTO HO Restomod. PKMM 433ci, SilverSport T56 Magnum 6spd, Moser 9", SC&C and a bunch of other pro touring goodies - Build Thread http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...615847&page=23 |
#27
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Quote:
Jim
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****'63 Tempest, 475" IAII, Wenzler Super Chief heads, converted to blown alcohol, Birdcatcher, Littlefield 10-71 high helix. Best pass to date: 7.67 @ 181.59 (1/4 mi.), 4.95 @ 143.67 (1/8 mi.), 1.18 (60 ft) 7.75 @ 178 pass: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iez3...ature=youtu.be First seven second pass(7.98): https://wwwoutube.com/watch?v=DK17...ature=youtu.be Thanks to Paul Carter @ Koerner Racing Engines |
#28
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This is correct. Keep in mind that friction loss in a longer line can be mitigated with a larger line. Also, in case of valve failure, the longer line would not make any difference in overfilling the engine, as the longer line would not be emptied.
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69 Firebird, 536, Wideports, Cal Tracs, 275 radials, 3200#, a little spray 7.75 @ 173, 4.92 @ 142 Last edited by cosgrove; 03-24-2016 at 08:55 PM. |
#29
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2) I assumed that the tank being mounted higher would allow the oil to flow into the pan forgetting that it is a trapped system and the oil is only moving from location to location. 3) Bleeding the air out of the thing the first time should not be a big deal with the bleed line submerged in a container of oil. No air bubbles and pressure on the air side of the piston and you are good to go. Tom V.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#30
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If you mount it in the trunk, you will need to come up with a procedure to bleed air out of the long hose (or prefill it with oil before hooking it up). Otherwise the "oil side" of the accumulator will still have that 15 feet of air somewhere in it and the fluid delivered back to the engine will be air or oil or an unpredictable mix of the two.
If you can get all of the air out of the long hose and you can protect the hose run from road hazards, then it will work. On the Grocery Getter, we mounted it to the front of the front motor plate, so the hose to feed the engine was only about 2 feet long. Hope this helps, Eric
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"Everybody has a plan until they get punched in the mouth" noted philosopher Mike Tyson Life begins at the end of your comfort zone. “The mind, once stretched by a new idea, never returns to its original dimensions.” |
#31
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Agree, Eric, everyone is assuming that there is no air in the long line.
The engine leaks air into the oil gallery as soon as the engine stops and the lifters stop moving. If the oil gallery is connected to the oil tank and 20 ft oil line then there has to be a valve that traps the oil in the tank and line before the engine is shut down each time. Maybe a nice sign, "Turn the feed line valve to the reservoir off before shutting down the Engine" or they get a electric valve that will never fail to seal, (Right). Tom V.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#32
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There will be an electric valve. I'll probably actuate it with a 20 lb pressure switch and have an override toggle to pre lube, refill it and bleed it
__________________
-1967 GTO HO Restomod. PKMM 433ci, SilverSport T56 Magnum 6spd, Moser 9", SC&C and a bunch of other pro touring goodies - Build Thread http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...615847&page=23 |
#33
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You will probably need to wire the control valve in a very specific way to do what you are trying to do. Jim (2oldgoats), OMT (Jim Taylor), and others could help you with that deal I am sure. Unless you have installed a similar system on other cars in the past.
Tom V.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#34
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WOW, more people use these than I would have thought.
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#35
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Pretty common and really not that expensive of a device but the "Extra Stuff" (shut-off valves, proper lines, possible adaptors, etc) can add to the total cost at the end of the day and then you need a place to mount the Accusump.
That unit is well made with a very clean bore tube. A Aluminum piston with a oil "O-Ring" on each end. The End Caps screw on and also have a "O-Ring" on each cap. The End Caps are drilled and tapped for a large feed hose thread to the engine on one end and a air pressure gage on the other end. And they have nice mounting hardware. A good insurance policy if the engine has a reduced oil pressure/volume at high rpm in the lights, then the accusump adds back the extra oil to keep the engine alive. Same deal with the launch. Tom V.
__________________
"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#36
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Dry sump oil tank on the Late Model car I picked up is on the chassis right behind the driver's seat so a fairly long hose.
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Skip Fix 1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever! 1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand 1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project 2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune 13.43@103.4 1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project 1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs |
#37
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Quote:
Tom V.
__________________
"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#38
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While i am not disagreeing with canton, I do not see how an 80 psi charge pushing a 15 foot column of oil can respond as quickly as a 3 foot column of oil in the lines. Will it work?, I am sure it will. Will it work as well as a "shorter" line I'd be surprised.
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#39
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Quote:
Jim
__________________
****'63 Tempest, 475" IAII, Wenzler Super Chief heads, converted to blown alcohol, Birdcatcher, Littlefield 10-71 high helix. Best pass to date: 7.67 @ 181.59 (1/4 mi.), 4.95 @ 143.67 (1/8 mi.), 1.18 (60 ft) 7.75 @ 178 pass: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iez3...ature=youtu.be First seven second pass(7.98): https://wwwoutube.com/watch?v=DK17...ature=youtu.be Thanks to Paul Carter @ Koerner Racing Engines |
#40
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You guys are assuming I'm going to mount the switch/solenoid on the accusump. My thoughts were to mount the switch/solenoid on the filter housing using the sandwich adapter. The line would always be pressurized. The only thing between the accusump/pressurized oil and the engine would be a tiny barrier in the solenoid thereby negating any difference line length.
__________________
-1967 GTO HO Restomod. PKMM 433ci, SilverSport T56 Magnum 6spd, Moser 9", SC&C and a bunch of other pro touring goodies - Build Thread http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...615847&page=23 |
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