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#21
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ANY piece of safety equipment is purchased and installed with the expressed hope that it will NEVER have to be used. I carry a fire extinguisher in my car, not because my fuel system isn't up to snuff, because it was as well thought out as the rest of my build up, but because even the most well laid plans are subject to change. Even perfectly chosen and installed components can fail without warning.
Just because someone has gone their whole life never seeing a clutch/flywheel explode isn't justification for advising others that it's nothing to worry about. The low rpm deal of the Pontiac isn't a good enough argument for not using a scattershield in a high horsepower application. If the intended purpose of the car is legitimately just a weekend cruiser then by all means keep the stock bell housing. If their is any intention to drive a high horsepower manual trans car in a high performance manner then it's just a prudent choice to protect life, limb and property with whatever means are at our disposal.
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John "There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive idiots!" |
#22
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Browell bellhousings makes a great tool for locating the bell, It will cost you about $135.oo though
www.browellbellhousing.com |
#23
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Anybody have one they are not using?
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........I'm just learning as I go....... |
#24
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There is a guy on the board that just sold one to a P/Y member..
Charles Here is the link.. http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=580685
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68 Firebird. IA2 block, 505 cu in, E-head, Solid roller 3650 weight. Reid TH400 4:11 gear. 29" slick. Best so far 10.12@133 mph. 1.43 60 ft. 76 Trans am, TKX .81 o/d, 3.73 Moser rearend, 468 with KRE D-ports, Doug headers, 3" Exh. |
#25
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Quote:
My point is the posting is in the street forum and although all of the items I mentioned above are easily at everyone's disposal, they all have their place and in my world, that place is not on a true street application. Especially a low rpm application. Obviously cost is somewhat of a factor for this question as it is for most all decisions to be made. If there is a budget involved, one would have to think, where should I put my money? IMO, I would rather have a set of Moser axles (I know, you have their 12 bolt and FWIW, I had their 9"), a nice HD driveshaft and a driveshaft safety loop than a SFI bellhousing considering the probability of their respective failures for this application. If you have committed to getting all of them, then by all means you have made a good and wise decision. If it is an either or situation, then there are better choices to made than a scattershield. Again, the statement is soley based this application.
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71 Formula 433, Splayed cap 400 block, 4" stroke Scat forged crank, 6.8 Eagle rods, custom Autotec pistons. SD 295 KRE D ports, Old faithful hybrid roller, Torker II, Holley Sniper Stealth, Tribal Tubes, TKO 600, 3.73 Eaton posi. Last edited by Formula8; 01-03-2009 at 12:33 PM. |
#26
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It's difficult to argue with most of what you said Formula8. I do appreciate your sentiments about myself and my car. I've always held you in high regard as well. However, based on the fact that the original poster stated his motor is making 520hp and 580 lb/ft of torque, and plans to take it to the strip twice a year, that indicates to me that his street driving will more than likely be, shall we say, "spirited", it seems like a scattershield would be cheap insurance.
I agree with you that a line has to be drawn somewhere based on intended use, but I believe that at his power level and intended use that a scattershield is well within that line. Having said that, I also believe that at that power level an aftermarket steel flywheel, HD driveshaft/u-joints, safety loop, and a beefed up rear end (c-clip eliminators, posi carrier, axles, etc.) all fall within the line as well. Obviously rolling a car, busting a drive shaft or grenading a rear end are potentially very dangerous, but blowing up a clutch or flywheel is just too close to home, if you get my drift, LOL! A buddy of mine grendaded a flywheel in his Chevelle many years ago. He was not hurt, although the pieces ripped a hole in his floor board right near the gas pedal. How it missed taking his right foot off I'll never know. The fact that he wasn't hurt was the only good news. The rapidly exiting flywheel and clutch did more damage to his engine block, firewall, cowl and hood than I would have ever thought possible! BTW, he was not racing when this happened. He was just screwing around, as most of us like to do with our cars. He missed a shift, bounced off the rev limiter and that was all she wrote.
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John "There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive idiots!" |
#27
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FWIW my friend who grenaded his probably was no where near 520 hp. I agree start with aa good non cast flywheel first but 520 hp and 580 ft lbs of TQ IS going to break stick parts unless it is built well from the start-BTDT. At least when you break the spiders out of the posi they won't come through the floorboard after you!
That much TQ with any kind of sticky tires is going to be hard on a clutch. Then the tranny, then the driveshaft then the rear end.
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Skip Fix 1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever! 1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand 1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project 2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune 13.43@103.4 1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project 1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs |
#28
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IF the deal is going to be power shifted,it should have a steel flywheel and a scattershield,PERIOD!JMHO,Tom
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#29
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besides containing the fltwheel and clutch the bellhousing also supports the weight and the torque twist is transmitted thru it , I have cracked the stock bellhousings fooling around and had a ring gear come loose and saw thru part of one its not a pretty thing to go thru . I'm to the point of replacing my bellhousings on my TH400's with a replacement bell for that reason .
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#30
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Scatter Shield, Steel or Aluminum SFI Flywheel, proper Fasteners, proper length Throw-out Bearing, proper Clutch and Pressure plate for the application, Properly designed Driveshaft Loop, Rev Limiter. Not really very many parts for safely vs a lot of potential distruction to the vehicle or the people inside the vehicle. One month's medical bills would pay for those parts 10 times over.
Tom Vaught
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#31
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Quote:
I totally agree with lust4speed... How much do you like having feet? If you like using your feet and are dumping the clutch regularly, a scattershield is money well spent. I’ve never had an explosion either but it’s solid piece of mind knowing that the explosion will be contained if it does happen. Having used both the Lakewood and McLeod units, I’d recommend the McLeod over the Lakewood hands down. McLeod grinds both mounting surfaces for the tranny as well as the engine side so you’re assured those surfaces are parallel. They also pre-index it for you and mark what the tolerances are on the unit so you know from the start if offset dowels are needed or not. |
#32
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OK, you guys have convinced me. I don't plan on ever taking my car to the strip and I am no where near 500hp but next time the trans is out, I'll reconsider the upgrade. Axles and KRE's are higher on my list of priorities though.
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71 Formula 433, Splayed cap 400 block, 4" stroke Scat forged crank, 6.8 Eagle rods, custom Autotec pistons. SD 295 KRE D ports, Old faithful hybrid roller, Torker II, Holley Sniper Stealth, Tribal Tubes, TKO 600, 3.73 Eaton posi. |
#33
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Factory bellhousings over time fatigue, crack, and let go, period. There's no way I would ever not use a blowproof. I personally have blown clutches on several occassions, and you should see what it does to the inside of a blowproof. (>500HP, on street tires too) I believe I posted pics of the last one that blew, hung it on the wall in the garage. I've walked the bone yards and saw cars that had explosions. Not pretty, and it happens more than one thinks.
Don't bother with a used factory one, they're already cracked and ready to let go. Same with flywheels. They fracture from heat cycles, and though they could be turned and get a good surface, start with one YOU know the history of, like BUY ONE, a NEW one. The other thing is with a used one, if it was properly aligned, it was aligned to whatever block it was attached to. Change it to another block and you have to re-align it. If it's been shaved to correct the parallel surface, you may never get it right on YOUR block. The lower row of bolts hang down too, and in some cases bottom out on the road. You'll never get one of those square. You may be able to look at a used blowproof and see if it hasn't been trimmed on the mating surface, or bottomed out, but it's still a gamble. There's a ton of opinions on the Lakewoods vs McLeod, though in my experience, the McLeod is a better unit. In my case it was closer to true out of the box, and required little adjustment. As stated, it's trued on both mating surfaces, and the lakewood isn't. Good luck on getting a parallel surface to the block/flywheel on a lakewood when it's out of tollerance. Both the Lakewood and McLeod require trimming for the best fit (and clutch linkage in some cases). In my application, passing drag tech was secondary, fitment and clearance while maintaining the most protection was my primary. I trimmed the whole bottom row off, and the 2nd starter bulge. Think I posted pics of that too. It may not maintain the SFI rating, but it will contain an explosion. .
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
#34
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you dont want to cut corners on this. I had one blow up and never again, steer whel and a lakewood. Stay away from McLoad. as its a crap shoot what comes in the box. Sorry to say but its so.
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#35
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http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...ghlight=mcleod
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...ghlight=mcleod http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...ghlight=mcleod http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...ghlight=mcleod http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...ghlight=mcleod http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...ghlight=mcleod The last thread link has the exploded disc. One thing also to keep in mind is that you should get an adjustable fork ball when you get a bellhousing. Someone recently reminded me of that in another thread. .
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
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