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Old 12-30-2008, 03:42 PM
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Default Everything, and I mean everything about oil

Some of you might find this a boring read, some might find this helpful. I belong to a Ferrari forum and this guy knows his oil.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=136052

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Old 12-30-2008, 06:00 PM
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Very interesting info.

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Old 12-31-2008, 12:23 AM
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"Some of you might find this a boring read, some might find this helpful. I belong to a Ferrari forum and this guy knows his oil."


Or maybe not...

"At temperatures below zero you will not be able to start your car with mineral oils while the synthetic oils may be used to -40 or - 50 F."

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Old 12-31-2008, 12:40 AM
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he made a false statement about pistons and cylinder wall expanding and contracting at the same rate. It is common knowledge that the piston to cylinder clearance is larger when cold than hot. Thus the piston slap of forged pistons on start-up.

Tim C

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Old 12-31-2008, 01:17 AM
PITTSBURGH 64 PITTSBURGH 64 is offline
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Damn Tim your good, I just got past the first line when I heard Charlie Browns teacher, Blob, blob blob blob.....

Put the Rotella in it for $10 a gallon and be done with it......

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Old 12-31-2008, 03:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PITTSBURGH 64 View Post
Damn Tim your good, I just got past the first line when I heard Charlie Browns teacher, Blob, blob blob blob.....

Put the Rotella in it for $10 a gallon and be done with it......

My Thoughts Exactly!

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Old 12-31-2008, 11:42 AM
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Default hmmm

"20- I am (single best answer):
A- Surgeon
B- Biochemist
C- ‘Halfass mechanic
D- Absurdly interested in motor oils
E- All of the above
The correct answer is E- All of the above "

"It can best be determined by driving the car with one type of oil and see what happens."

"Even water can be used as a lubricant. This is partly because of its high surface tension. It is used in many medical devices and other systems that are under or exposed to water. It is just that water rusts metal parts making this unsuitable for automotive engines. It actually has a higher specific heat than oil. It can therefore carry away more heat than oil from bearing surfaces. In this respect water is a better lubricant than oil."

"The manufacturers know what parts shrink or expand and the clearance changes that result. You do not have to worry about this. If it was that easy to design engines we would all be making them."

YET

"My Enzo Ferrari calls for the Shell Helix Ultra racing 10W-60 but I am using the Castrol Syntec European Formula 0W-30. "

Hmmmm, some of it seems logical/informative, some of it just seems like just another opinion. But he's a surgeon, so that makes it gospel.

Maybe he should replace the oil in his Marshmello with water and test run it, and let us know how it does at 8000 rpm. Then just switch back to oil so it doesn't rust.

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Old 12-31-2008, 04:42 PM
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Yes, he's a Ferrari driving surgeon with a weird obsession for oil, but a lot of what he says is correct. And water is used as a lubicant in many pumps, especially vertical ones.

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Old 01-04-2009, 11:21 PM
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water will not work as a lubricant in a atutomotive engine because it will boil and the engine will self destruct, among other reasons.

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Old 01-05-2009, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Tim Corcoran View Post
water will not work as a lubricant in a atutomotive engine because it will boil and the engine will self destruct, among other reasons.

Hmmm, I was wondering what the problem with water would be....apprecate you clearing it up.

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Old 01-05-2009, 07:12 PM
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Water? This guy OBVIOUSLY doesn't know what he's talking about. The correct lubricant for engines is Green GATOR AIDE. I should know. I let my friend use my car a couple of months back and he said he changed the oil to some high performance Mobil Green, says I shouldn't worry that it looks exactly like Gator Aid. Seems kinda watery to me after all... He was also kind enough to put a petroleum additive into my radiator to help keep it from rusting up... Isn't he sweet?

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Old 01-05-2009, 10:30 PM
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I heard this from a old timer years ago. He swears it's true. It seems that his friends model T ran out of oil during a trip to the Southwest. I believe an improperly installed oil plug rattled loose. When he became apparent of the loss he fixed the pan by cramming a tree branch that was a tad bigger into the hole. With out any oil and miles from a filling station he filled the crankcase with the water that was on board. When he came to the next gas station miles from the incident he had the water drained and new oil installed. What he saw when draining the oil was all kinds of goop and crap that come out of the pan. After seeing that he subsequently drained the oil before all of his oil changes and put in water to clean the engine. This was the in days before detergent type oils. Like I said he swears it's true.

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Old 01-06-2009, 12:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by track73 View Post
I heard this from a old timer years ago. He swears it's true. It seems that his friends model T ran out of oil during a trip to the Southwest. I believe an improperly installed oil plug rattled loose. When he became apparent of the loss he fixed the pan by cramming a tree branch that was a tad bigger into the hole. With out any oil and miles from a filling station he filled the crankcase with the water that was on board. When he came to the next gas station miles from the incident he had the water drained and new oil installed. What he saw when draining the oil was all kinds of goop and crap that come out of the pan. After seeing that he subsequently drained the oil before all of his oil changes and put in water to clean the engine. This was the in days before detergent type oils. Like I said he swears it's true.
Model T's didn't make enough power to hurt anything.

Also, the goop and crap that came out of the pan was the old oil that mixed with the water and became goop and crap! I certainly wouldn't take that to mean you should rinse your engine with water every time you change the oil. That's just rediculous.

I know old timers that tell me of stories of replacing rod bearings with belt leather to make it to their destination. Back then, you could get away with most anything. Now days, engines make too much power and have too tight of clearances and these things don't work anymore.

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Old 01-06-2009, 03:37 AM
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I actually saw a picture once of a rod bearing in a John Deere 2-cylinder that was replaced with a piece of leather and a piece of oak as a dirt-poor repair. Maybe you use water in the crankcase to keep the oak seasoned?

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Old 01-06-2009, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Coupe View Post
"Some of you might find this a boring read, some might find this helpful. I belong to a Ferrari forum and this guy knows his oil."


Or maybe not...

"At temperatures below zero you will not be able to start your car with mineral oils while the synthetic oils may be used to -40 or - 50 F."
I guess he never lived in the interior of ALASKA where it can get -50+ for sometimes weeks on end. Now without a block heater, oil pan heater, battery pad, tranny pan heater and other items installed you WILL NOT be able to start a vehicle that has sat outside for more than a couple hours, regardless of what type of oil you use!! Your engine will be cold soaked PERIOD! Synthetics do make a HUGE difference in this climate but are NOT the only oil that will work. Been there done that. Heck most Alaskans don't start plugging in till -20 or colder. A coworker of mine right now has a little Suzuki car that he has not plugged in for the past 5 days of work. We are working all night from 6 PM to 6 AM. It's been around -10 or colder every night. It starts for him every morning....Go figure?

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