[Deadhead]

I have a urinal I was asked to put in at church. I did not want to do it, and it is not needed. But, they insisted, so I agreed to take it as far as I could. I am competent/good at residential work. Better than some professionals I work with, but I am in over my head here. Or up to my...

I have a Chinese Sloan with the Magic whatever valve on top. My questions are:

1. Can the size of the supply be reduced to a 1/2" pex and have the valve still function? I suspect my Prob is that I need full 3/4" supply and possibly better water pressure than I want to apply to the system in this old building on a well.

2. Is there a minimum pressure required for these to function properly?

We got the thing hooked up w/ 1/2", and it just runs continuously, which is a Prob. b/c the person I was working with also insisted that we put a trap behind it that is not needed b/c the fixture has a trap built in. So… in addition to not shutting off, it also does not drain adequately. Drain part might be easy to fix, but he also insisted on doing it where we neatly glued up all the joints in a trap we fabbed with 1 1/2" PVC. Sigh.

Instructions were not that helpful, and I am suspect of instructions on stuff made in China to boot.

Thanks for any help. The best answer would be: 'This will not work' or 'Just put a ball valve on it and use it like that.' They will LOVE that.

[Mr Twister]

The added trap is not required, as you already know. You need to take it off, then the bowl will clear when flushed.
As far as the Sloan valve, you need to have a sloan stop/check installed upstream of the flush valve if you dont have one already. Also make sure that the Sloan valve internal configuration matches the flow requirement of the fixture. If its an auto flush, make sure the batteries are good.

[Deadhead]

Not an auto flush, so don't have the electronics.

The valve and flow requirement should match. They were purchased together.

Is the stop/check the same as vacuum breaker and control stop? I have got all that in accordance with the instructions as well. I have not tried adjusting the control stop. Like a carb., I did not want to mess with that until I was sure everything else was right.

What pressure is needed for the thing to function? It does not tell that anywhere in the instructions. Nor does it tell the minimum volume. It just says if you don't have a gauge, check it. Riiight. Unfortunately, instructions are for multiple units, & I can not look at the ID label at the moment.

Thank you for your help.

[johnsma22]

A plumber buddy of mine told me that those Flushometer valves typically require 25 psi supplied through an 1 1/4" supply line to operate properly. The pressure and volume of the water are both important, which is why they can be troublesome when supplied through the typical 1/2" or 3/4" supply lines found in most residential and light commercial applications. A valve that will not stop running is indicative of not enough water volume.

[Deadhead]

Originally Posted by johnsma22

A plumber buddy of mine told me that those Flushometer valves typically require 25 psi supplied through an 1 1/4" supply line to operate properly. The pressure and volume of the water are both important, which is why they can be troublesome when supplied through the typical 1/2" or 3/4" supply lines found in most residential and light commercial applications. A valve that will not stop running is indicative of not enough water volume.

Yeah. Thanks. I have got a 20/40 switch on the pump, but I think it is like all engineering disasters. Multiple causes. Volume and pressure inadequate combined with ignorant installer. Barring any insight to the contrary, I think I am going to mount a valve to the wall above it with instructions for use.

[Deadhead]

Must have been a Miracle. Fixed trap, and after sitting for a day or so entire thing works basically as it should. Maybe air in lines or something. 1/2" seems to be enough volume to work it.