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#1
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Power steering box leak on input shaft
So on my long journey to stop all the leaks on my car, I wanted ask about the steering pump box. I'm 90% sure the leak is coming from the input shaft. This box was first rebuilt by Lee when he was still in business then by ARG when I decided I needed a different torsion bar.
Anyway, not sure how common that for a leak there. Maybe I caused by trying to lower the steering and putting to much pressure on it? Maybe It the AGR pump with to much pressure? Was wondering of anyone has replaced this seal before? It doesn't look like I would have to take the whole box apart. It appears the seal would be pretty easy to replace. I have a JGC box that I think was also leaking from the input shaft when I removed it. was thinking of replacing the seal on it too. Just looking for some thoughts on it. |
#2
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I watched a couple of you-tube videos on the gearbox rebuild. Looked pretty straight forward.
Good luck |
#3
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A few years ago my TA had a PS box leak. I put in a bottle of Lucas Oil stop leak. It worked !
This spring I had to put on a new hose, drained the pump. refilled and It started to leak again. added a new bottle of Lucas Oil and the leaked stopped ! FYI.
__________________
3 Generations of "Beach Boys Racing" ! Everybody knows somthin. Nobody knows everything ! 1st time on a dragstrip, 1964. Flagstart ! "Thanks for the entertainment." "Real Indians Don't Wear Bowties" |
#4
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Had pinion shaft seal leak on my trucks box.
Lucas has stopped it now for 2 yrs. Seal sweller works sometimes. |
#5
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Mine leaked also...bought the seal kit replaced it working on the bench. Straightforward fix; I also had the service manual handy.
George
__________________
"...out to my ol'55, I pulled away slowly, feeling so holy, god knows i was feeling alive"....written by Tom Wait from the Eagles' Live From The Forum |
#6
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George,
Who did you buy your seal through? I read that the part you tighten down with the spanner wrench is like a pre-load on wheel bearing or pinion gear. I know some stake some tick marks to put it back in the same spot and others tighten it until the play is out out it and back it off a tad. I'm pretty sure I was using the Lucas power steering fluid. Not sure if it was a stop leak fluid or not. I will plan on replacing the seal and using stop leak from Lucas and see how that works. I'm pretty sure my PS box on the 68 is a 800 series right? Is the JGC box the same series? Since the input shaft requires a different rag joint I would think it might require a different seal too. |
#7
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If i remember correctly, I bought it at NAPA. I just remembered that the box i was using was a '85 vintage from a Toronado (faster ratio). It's still an 800 box tho.
The later boxes do require a diff rag joint. If you need a service manual i can copy the relevant stuff for you. For the input shaft adjustment you need a in-lb torque wrench to get the correct running torque, then lock it down. Since it's apart you should use the proper procedure. George
__________________
"...out to my ol'55, I pulled away slowly, feeling so holy, god knows i was feeling alive"....written by Tom Wait from the Eagles' Live From The Forum |
#8
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Quote:
and let me ask the 2nd question another way. Did Saginaw make an 800 box with two different size input shafts? I assume the seal would have to be the correct size for the shaft? |
#9
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First question...the spanner wrench tightens the input plug to establish the preload. The torque wrench is used to rotate the input shaft to measure the running torque. The large hex thing is the big locknut to lock down the input plug once the running torque is in spec.
The seal obviously needs to be the right size...I don't know if all 800 boxes use the same kit, tho. As i mentioned, I specified the year of the box i had. George
__________________
"...out to my ol'55, I pulled away slowly, feeling so holy, god knows i was feeling alive"....written by Tom Wait from the Eagles' Live From The Forum |
#10
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Just took a quick look at NAPA........seal kit for a '68 GTO is NPS7367......$.14.99
They also have a reman box, 2.5 to 3 turns lock to lock for about $130.00.....inexpensive replacement if your box is 4T lock to lock like my original one...much nicer now. never mind I forgot you have the aftermarket boxes. Napa still has the seal kits tho George
__________________
"...out to my ol'55, I pulled away slowly, feeling so holy, god knows i was feeling alive"....written by Tom Wait from the Eagles' Live From The Forum |
#11
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Thanks George. Makes sense now.
Is there a socket that fits the input shaft? My steering box is original to the car for my 68. I bought a JGC box for my 64. Just for clarity. |
#12
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Anyone know if this is the spanner tool to use?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...f_rd_i=desktop I'm wondering in the pin sizes are mostly universal for items that need spanner wrenches. |
#13
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Don't know if there's a socket for that....I think I just used a close fitting socket and wedged using a small wood wedge on the flat part of the shaft. It was straightforward as I remember.
Looks like that spanner would work. george
__________________
"...out to my ol'55, I pulled away slowly, feeling so holy, god knows i was feeling alive"....written by Tom Wait from the Eagles' Live From The Forum |
#14
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*****UPDATE*******
After 6 years I'm close to having this car back on the street. Even though I did replace the input seal Its leaking worse then ever before. Just ran for a few minutes with the front jacked up to bleed the steering and have a plate sized puddle on the floor. I'm beyond frustrated at this point. And I do have stop leak in it as well. I watched several videos at the time and felt relatively confident doing it. I wonder could the steering column be in line with the steering input shaft and be putting pressure on it? Also the AGR pump doesn't seem to be working at all anymore. It had ran dry and was run for a few minutes. Is it likely to have failed???? |
#15
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I would pull it out and check the work on the seal. Could have a small defect or there could be pitting from sitting where the seal goes. Found that the hard way after two seals.
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#16
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Thanks Dave.
I will be pulling the box again. Here is what I learned since my last post. Thinking back there was just small amount of side play in the input shaft. I wouldn't think that's not normal. I also have some slop in the steering. That also doesn't seem normal for a new box rebuilt by lee and then AGR for a stiffer torsion bar. This seems like a good video on installing the seals. I'm pretty sure I installed the thinner washer seal in the right direction but will check again. I found another video with conflicting directions for that seal. https://youtu.be/iqqqdQMljm0?list=PL...1WhKpXu&t=1174 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R9WaPW2caDU This is a GREAT VIDEO! How to properly adjust a GM/Saginaw steering box https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VRO1...hKpXu&index=17 I wonder who makes a better seal? I found the two most popular are Gates and Edelman. Gates being more expensive. I wonder if my AGR pump is putting out too much pressure, but currently doesn't seem to work at all? I need to fix the box first and then retest the pump. |
#17
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I bought a complete steering box rebuild kit form Rockauto.
__________________
1979 Trans Am WS-6 .030 455 zero decked flat pistons 96 heads with SS valves 041 cam with Rhoads lifters 1.65 rockers RPM rods 800 Cliffs Q Jet on Holley Street Dominator ST-10 4 speed (3.42 first) w 2.73 rear gear __________________________________________________ _______________________________ 469th TFS Korat Thailand 1968-69 F-4E Muzzle 2 |
#18
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FWIW I have an input shaft leak in my 67 from a reman 3rd gen box.
Stop Leak from multiple brands hasn't fixed it. I finally took the box out and replaced the seal myself. A major undertaking with the headers. And it still leaks. So I guess Ill be buying a new box at some point.
__________________
1967 Firebird 462 580hp/590ftlbs 1962 Pontiac Catalina Safari Swapped in Turd of an Olds 455 Owner/Creator Catfish Motorsports https://www.youtube.com/@CatfishMotorsports |
#19
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Well that doesn't feel me with with confidence
This is a major leak so It needs to be addressed. I found that I did use a gates seal kit before. I just ordered another one and also a Edelman one too. I just ordered a beam style in/lb torq wrench. I'm going into a deep dive to make sure the pre load is set correctly and the adjustment are done correctly. This video I just found goes into some good details on the preload adjustment. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgw_T77vdJQ |
#20
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Fingers crossed I have this right.
I think I just didn't have the preload right before. When I changed the seal the first time I marked the adjuster plug and just counted the number of turns on the plug and tried to set it back to the same place. I noticed before i pulled the box out I had some slop in the box. 1. Get the seal in strait. Not as easy as it sounds 2. Dust seal smooth side out according to Lee power steering. 3. 20 to 30 ft/lbs torq on plug 4. Back off 3/16 to 1/4 5. Adjust to 4 to 10 inch/lb 6-8 is better 6. over center drag at 14in/lb increase to 5 in/lb 7. never go over 18 at the over center Some of this comes strait out of the 68 service manual. Also the Gates and Edelman gasket are exactly the same. Different box but same plastic package with same part numbers. I was going to call AGR but couldn't find them. Did they get bought out? I see they still sell pumps but couldn't find a web page for them to call direct. |
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