[topfuel67]

I'm doing a full frame off rotisserie restoration on my 66 4 spd 3x2 spec paint code GTO. I media blasted the body and found lots of medium size dings and dents all over the quarter panels. I got most of them out using a stud welder and pulling then with a slide hammer. On the passenger quarter the wheel well lip looks like the side swiped a pole at some time. It dented the rear wheel well lip, but not too much of the panel where the quarter window is. Only a few inches into that panel. It was all poorly pulled and bondo filled. I attempted to pull it better, but it is still requiring sculpting with mud. Part of the inner wheel house is wrinkled too. It was all pulled out though. I am having mixed feelings on what to do. This is a solid rust free always been in California car with all original sheet metal. Should I graft in Chinese metal? Keep it original with a bit of mud. The next guy may be able to straighten out the original metal better as well, but will never be able to put back original metal. So I ask what others think. I am planning on selling when finished.

[topfuel67]

The few inches towards the front door is the worst part. Heres a pic.

[MUSLCAH]

I would keep the original panels on the car..with all the original spot welds intact ..just pick and file all that metal...a no brainer if it was mine.

[400 4spd.]

I'll go out on a limb and say it's the outer wheel house that's pushed in. I say that because the lip is in that area, plus the pictures of block sanding (high and low spots) make me think so. The alternative is to "pretend" it's not in and build the wheel lip and quarter outward to appear correct.

[GT182]

Chinese sheet metal is the worst thing you could use. To me it's worse than using bondo.

I too say keep the original sheet metal. If you can pull the dents out, straighten things up, and use a minimum amount of bondo.... then you're further ahead with real metal instead of Chinese junk.

[topfuel67]

The inner wheel house is what makes straightening out the metal so difficult. I can't pound on it from the other side with a hammer and dolly. Plus they drilled holes on the previous repair instead of using a stud/spot welder. I feel keeping it original is best. I'm very good at metal body work, so try to avoid filler except to fill scratches and smooth sirface.. I appreciate all the responses. I'll spend more time heating and shaping the metal where I can.

[400 4spd.]

Since you have experience with working metal, try using one of these to pull the wheel housing and quarter out. Even if you can't get it on a frame machine, you can improvise with a sturdy tree and pulling device. If that and some drilled holes is all you have issues with, weld the holes and save the panel.
Having a good wheel opening molding on hand to trial fit will help you get the curvature right.

https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/ste...MaAliiEALw_wcB

And BTW, my earlier post was not meant as a suggestion for how to fix it!

[topfuel67]

I appreciate the suggestions. I am not a professional, but have painted about 5 cars and done several small panels. The damage has already been pulled out and wasn't that bad to begin with. Its just the finishing part that is requiring a bit more mud. I think I needed the responses below to assure me that its better not to cut especially since its not rusted out.

[GT182]

Good for you TopFuel. Not cutting recommendations are for those that know. I know a couple of guys that cut out section that weren't rusted out and could have been pull. I can't say how many times they've said they kicked their butts for not listening.

One important thing you do need to do is getting those parking light to come on with your headlights. It's not hard to, and to me and it's a safety issue. Check the Stickied Threads in this section.

[topfuel67]

I do watch all the car shows and cringe when they find what looks like a straight car only to find layers of mud and then roast the unknown PO. I know my repair isn't just mud layered on, but still want to be sure.
I'm restoring her back to 100% original. I got a really nice original wiring harness off ebay. So every wire is by the book. Even the resistor wire for the ignition is nice so I don't need the external one everyone drills into the firewall. I still have the original VR too.
Thank you for the support!
Donald

[MUSLCAH]

Hey ...for a 50 + year car...a lot of T-Shirts have worked on these cars....and well...accidents do happen and weather can be a problem too. I would fix a banged up fender with no rust any day .

[AMX guy]

I agree with the no Chinese junk metal . fix what you have if at all possible.

Out of curiosity what color was your car ? I'm restoring a special order color 66 GTO tri power 4spd car built in Freemont and sold in the bay area. my car was Tiger Gold, it seems like Freemont built a lot of special order color cars.

[topfuel67]

Mine was originally Pinehurst Green. It too was built in Fremont and sold in the Bay area. Mine was a 1st week in Jan build. What was the date on yours?
I heard most of the special paint cars were made in batches as they had to halt assembly to change the paint. It was expensive to change out the special colors so they only ran a few batches at each plant.
I finished the body work and am about to spray my final primer. I'll be painting next week!

[AMX guy]

My car was built Feb 15 1966 .

I think Tiger gold was one of the more common colors but there seems to be no record of how many special order color cars were made.

It would be interesting to know, your green has to be super rare.

[topfuel67]

The guestimates I've heard were only a few hundred for 66 as GM was trying to cut costs. Of the other 7 colors besides TG there were less than 10 each, and the rest were TG. If mine had been any other color besides that green I would keep it original. I'm just not a fan of that green though. I media blasted mine myself, but left a few specs of the original green incase a future owner wants to bring it back. It is under several layers of primer and soon paint, but media blasting could reveal it again.

[geeteeohguy]

Another vote for keeping the metal original. It never ceases to amaze me on all these television shows where the guys replace the quarters on every car they do with aftermarket parts.....and the quarters were totally repairable. Just lazy, I guess. I know that I'd much rather have a car with original panels, and I value original panel cars much higher than patched-together ones, no matter how nice they turned out.

[77 TRASHCAN]

Originally Posted by AMX guy

My car was built Feb 15 1966 .

I think Tiger gold was one of the more common colors but there seems to be no record of how many special order color cars were made.

It would be interesting to know, your green has to be super rare.

Hey, how is your car coming along?

[topfuel67]

Its being a pain. I keep sanding, filling, pounding, heating metal, pounding, filling, sanding...
I'm so close to painting, but have been for the last couple of weeks.

[MUSLCAH]

Originally Posted by topfuel67

Its being a pain. I keep sanding, filling, pounding, heating metal, pounding, filling, sanding...
I'm so close to painting, but have been for the last couple of weeks.

Welcome to the Dark side.....Bodywork. Painting is the reward you are given...after spending countless hours from 36 grit ........all the way to 3,000 grit.

[topfuel67]

Finally got the body painted. Now hopefully I can get the doors, fenders, hood, trunk, etc. done fairly soon.