[1970gpsj4speed]

I HAVE A WIPED CAM ON MY NEW MOTOR
I NEED TO GET IT OUT TO SEE DAMAGE DROVE IT ABOUT 2 MILES+ BREAKIN
ID LIKE TO PULL IT AS SIMPLE AS POSSIBLE
HAS ANYONE PULLED THE BELL BOLTS AND PULLED IT OF THE TRANS SPLINE
ITS A 4 SPEED

[Ollie]

Yes, That is the way to do it, when you dont pull the transmission. Make sure the trans/ bellhousing is supported when they are seperated.

[gearbanger]

Yes I have done that. It is not the easiest, but it will work okay. That bad part is if you take off the pp-plate, then your clutch might not be lined up jsut right even if you use an alignment tool. Then when you go to mate the bellhousing back to the motor, the pilot might be a little difficult to deal with. Be carefule about drawing it up with the bolts. You can easily snap off an ear.

[GTOLou]

Not a problem - problem is getting it back IN with the tranny/bellhousing still in the car. That is really not advisable.

[gregsgtos2]

i have done it that way once-probably would not do it again.im with gtolou on this one.

[chuckies76ta]

Curious minds what to know what brand of Cam you have wiped?

Thanks
Charles

[Kitch428m21]

I was recently in your shoes. I thought exactly like you, and yes, it's the easiest way, but I dread the restab, so on the creeper I went and stripped it to the PP in no time flat.
Once you're on a roll, the whole job to pull wasn't anything. 4.5 hrs with no help, taking my time.
A little tip, I had the Muncie filled with gear oil already and there's no easy way to drain it, so i zip tied a plastic bag to the tail shaft so not to get gear oil all over when pulling.

[chuckies76ta]

You'd probably have an easier time pulling engine and tranny together.. When it comes time to put the engine back in is when it will be difficult to mate engine and tranny..

Charles

[1970gpsj4speed]

Curious minds what to know what brand of Cam you have wiped?

I think ill start another thread on what I did wrong other than buy from summit
it is a 2802 and I had a colapsed lifter from the go but went ahead and broke the cam in .Last weekend I swapped out the lifters with comp and rebroke them in.drove it to fuel it up and back felt good and in the driveway it stalled wouldnt restart.felt locked .This is what I found so far
cam was checked and set straight up lash was set individually at 1/2 turn after 0 lash
ran for 25 minutes at 2000 rpm with rotella oil

[Tom Vaught]

A camshaft either needs some lash (mechanical lifter) or a hydraulic lifter to cushion the opening event. Everyone says hydraulic fluid is incompressable but there will always be some microscopic air particles in the system with the hydraulic lifter.

In your case with the collapsed lifter, I assume you gave it a 1/2 turn once the lifter was solid and hurt the camshaft lobe then.

Removing the bad lifter(s) and installing new ones did nothing for the lifter that was already damaged.

I would personally take the whole engine apart as you probably have trash everywhere. "It stalled wouldnt restart.felt locked" makes me think that you also have bearing damage now.

Tom V.

[Schurkey]

Unless you're unusually good with supporting the trans, as soon as the input shaft pops out of the pilot bearing, you risk distorting the clutch disc from applying pressure to it as the engine twists out of the frame.

Either take the trans with you when you pull the engine; or pull the trans out first.

[chuckies76ta]

Originally Posted by Schurkey

Unless you're unusually good with supporting the trans, as soon as the input shaft pops out of the pilot bearing, you risk distorting the clutch disc from applying pressure to it as the engine twists out of the frame.

Either take the trans with you when you pull the engine; or pull the trans out first.

There you go.. I agree.. Sorry to hear of your troubles also..

Charles

[lust4speed]

Chances are you will bend one or more of the pressure plate fingers if you attempt to pull the engine away from the trans. I would either pull the engine and trans together or remove the trans prior to lifting out the engine. The pressure plate and flywheel can remain on the engine after pulling the trans, and removing the bell housing from the engine is optional.

[HWYSTR455]

I thought Munchies were made for bench pressing!?! Personally, I think it's easier to R&R the trans before pulling the engine, several reasons. One, even with a engine 'tilt-er', with the trans on there, it requires effort to swing around. (Auto is a different story, since it's easier to bolt on first than bench press!).

I'm thinking along the lines of Tom, it's going to have to come apart, as hard as that is to accept. No sense trying to short cut once you've had a problem like that, since if you do, you're just setting yourself up for another R&R, making for twice the work.

I feel your pain. I waxed one in the spring, had to R&R....

.

[sixt8bird]

Originally Posted by 1970gpsj4speed

I think ill start another thread on what I did wrong other than buy from summit
it is a 2802 and I had a colapsed lifter from the go but went ahead and broke the cam in .Last weekend I swapped out the lifters with comp and rebroke them in.drove it to fuel it up and back felt good and in the driveway it stalled wouldnt restart.felt locked .This is what I found so far
cam was checked and set straight up lash was set individually at 1/2 turn after 0 lash
ran for 25 minutes at 2000 rpm with rotella oil

Did you make sure you had pushrod clearance through the heads.

[1970gpsj4speed]

i dont understand???

[Tom Vaught]

I would pull the trans and bellhousing FIRST. Easy to do with the car up on jackstands especially when using one of those motorcycle jacks. Put extra jackstands under the frame to catch the car if it falls off one of the supporting stands. I typically have a jackstand under each lower "A-Arm", two stands supporting the rear axle, as well as extra jackstands under the frame rails on the sides.

Once you have the trans out then you can remove the engine almost vertically. If you try and remove the engine/trans as a unit you will typically have to pull the radiator and fan shroud. Plus it will need to be very high up to clear everything and get the tailstock of the trans past the floor/ trans hump in the sheetmetal.

Tom V.

ps remember to disconnect the speed-o cable.

[vidguy]

That sounds like a great way to do this Tom. Good tip! Good point about the angle and such.
I also like the notes on where you out the jackstands. I always wonder where everyone else puts them.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by 1970gpsj4speed

i dont understand???

Didn't see a response to this anywhere.
Pretty sure 68 was talking about push rods rubbing against the holes in the heads. Push rod holes have to be enlarged for some 1.65 rockers and big cams. If not, the push rod want stay seated in the lifter or centered in the rocker arm tip. Rubbing against the head pushes it out of line.
There will be a shiny mark on the push rod, where it passes through the head, if it has been a problem.

[Keith Vrabec]

Engine reinstallation with manual trans in place..

You need a few things to do it right.
First you need an old trans input shaft.
And a set of guide pins...See below.

Removing the engine with trans is place is possible, and I've done it a few times. Replacing is the tough part as mentioned above. YOu will screw up the clutch fingers without guide pins, and must have clutch properly aligned prior to any attempt.

With the engine still out, set up the clutch. Place it on and with the old input shaft in place, tighten the pressure plate. (It is a good idea to replace the pilot bearing in the crank. A $28 part and you can borrow the tool at Advance or Auto ZOne, or buy at harbor freight.) Remove the old input shaft.

Make guide pins:
These are used to line up the bell to the engine. I leave the bell on the trans. Take a 3 inch long bolt that fits in the engine where the bell housing attaches. Cut just the head off the bolt and with a grinder, camfer the top a little to a cone shape.

Take two of these, place them in the engine, one on driver side one on pass side. Easiet to do the lowest ones since usually there is more room to get the pin out. drop the engine down toward the bell, and line the pins with the bolt holes in the bell. Now you have 3 points of alignment, the trans input, and two guides. The guides being longer engage first, lining up the input and protecting clutch fingers.

Now the tricky part. Have to slide the engine back STRAIGHT on the pins to join the bell and engine. Usually you have to rotate the crank a bit to engage the splines on the input to the clutch. you can feel it engage and then it will slide.

To slide it back, use a long 2x4 about 4 ft long, and using it as a lever push against the crank at the front of the engine pushing the engine back to the trans. you will still have the weight of the engine on the crane, and it should slide relatively easily. Be Gentle!!

It can be done pretty easily, and does save a bit of time since you do not need to remove crossmember, shifter, speedo cable etc. Less lifting and you don't end up with a Muncie denting your sternum!!!