[TURBO80T/A ROB]

took exhaust manifold off broke bolt off drilled bolt put easy out in (screw remover)broke that can't drill in to easy out what would be the best way to get it out or something stronger to drill in to easy out help please

[TURBO80T/A ROB]

took exhaust manifold off broke bolt off drilled bolt put easy out in (screw remover)broke that can't drill in to easy out what would be the best way to get it out or something stronger to drill in to easy out help please

[Goatman]

Heat it up wwith a torch untill its cherry red, then you should be able to put vice grips on it or an easy out and pull it right out.

[TURBO80T/A ROB]

No chance of grabbbing it broke flat nothing sticking out than the easy out broke flat

[carbking]

At this point in time probably the best advice is to take it to a machine shop and pay them to take it out. However, there are (at least) two different procedures that may be used:

(1) Use a vertical milling machine and a carbide tipped end mill, and mill out the easy out.

(2) After removing the easy out, place a hex nut on the side of the cylinder head, and then weld through the nut into what is left of the bolt, then put a wrench on the nut and remove the nut and bolt.

Good luck. Jon.

[Wade Congdon]

Carbide can be used to drill an EZ out, however it will be tough to find the center of the hole. One trick I have used is to place a nut over the stud, and weld inside the nut to attach it to the stud. This works better if you have even a little stud sticking out, but would still probably work here. The heat from the welding usually loosens the stud and the nut can then be used to screw it out. If this does not work, the manifold will have to be removed from the engine and the stud machined out. Good Luck!

[Wade Congdon]

Hey Carb King, We must have posted at the same time! Glad to see someone else using the good tricks to save old parts!

[larry davis]

First:

Heat the easy out/ bolt till it's dull cherry red,
let it cool completely. This will anneal the medium or high carbon steel so you can drill it w/ a high speed steel bit. I use a cobalt bit, not cobalt coated, as it is a hard mo'fo'.
Don't apply too much pressure, let the bit do the work. If you push too hard, you'll generate too much heat and anneal your bit.

Second:

Weld a flat fender washer of a slightly smaller id than the bolt to the broken bolt, then weld a nut w a smaller od than the washer's od to the washer. let the nut cool slightly and turn to remove.

[Richard Ohran]

I didn't notice whether anyone mentioned that "gentle persuasion" is better than "brute force". Once you get a grip on the bolt, whether by easy-out or welding, then, rather than trying to force it to come out immediately, it is better to apply a force much less than the breaking point of the bolt, and hold it for a longer period of time. As an experiment one time, I had an exhaust manifold bolt that was resisting my efforts to remove it, so I used a bungy cord to apply a very modest amount of pressure -- maybe ten or twenty foot-lbs -- and then found something else to do for several hours. Hours later, I hear a clunk as the wrench and the bungy cord fell to the floor when the nut released. Heat and modest taps with a hammer while applying this kind of torque increases the effectiveness of the procedure.

[TURBO80T/A ROB]

Thanks for the help guys