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Old 06-12-2023, 12:39 PM
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What Would You Do?
How would you approach this? Tailgate area on my ‘63 Safari. The car will not get painted but I do want to clean up and paint the jamb areas.

Steps please.

Can I just sandblast and epoxy prime?
Ospho?
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Old 06-12-2023, 04:18 PM
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I first thought would be to dissolve the rust with naval jelly, phosphoric acid or whatever you like the best. Looks like you caught it just in the nick of time.

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Old 06-12-2023, 04:47 PM
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sand blasting is a mess. i would use an encapsulater like mentioned above.

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Old 06-12-2023, 11:34 PM
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I’d probably wire wheel it w a small wire brush , the. Use white vinegar on it to etc and prime fill with filler primer sand and paint to patch as best you can

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Old 06-19-2023, 04:35 PM
tjs72lemans tjs72lemans is offline
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I would also wire wheel it. You can buy different sizes and shapes for tight contours. Then use a rust inhibitor or transformer like Rustoleum sold at Ace Hardware in a small plastic bottle. Epoxy prime and touch up with paint. This could all be done with a small brush since you aren't going to paint outside and no need to get overspray anywhere.

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Old 06-19-2023, 05:06 PM
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Wire wheel on a drill. Hit it with 3M Rust Mort to convert it, then paint it

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Old 06-19-2023, 09:29 PM
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Plus, that's the good side. You need to shoot something up inside and let it run out, that's where it's all rusty, inside.

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Old 06-20-2023, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor78 View Post
Plus, that's the good side. You need to shoot something up inside and let it run out, that's where it's all rusty, inside.
Exactly!
That’s why I think I’ll squirt some Ospho into the seams and openings to help stop what can’t be cleaned up. Seems people either love or hate Ospho but this ain’t no show car so I’ll try it. When you live in New England, this is what you get…..

I have been using white vinegar to soak small rusted parts and pieces. Works great! It does need to soak a while though.

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Old 06-21-2023, 09:10 PM
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I’ve been experimenting with this stuff for ovah 15 years ...with excellent results.

I’d clean up those areas with a carbide rasp tip...in a drill...or something that spins faster...like my whizz wheel. Clean up the loose rust ....and feather edge sand with 180...and apply one coat with an acid brush...wait 20 minutes ...the follow with a second coat.
Let that dry for 12 hours...then lightly scratch it with some 220...and apply some putty ,if needed to fill in some craters.

If no craters ...just lightly scuff (without breaking through) with some 220...then epoxy prime ...let that flash for 1 hour..then go right to painting

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Old 06-21-2023, 09:15 PM
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Here’s a pic of that rust busting tip

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Old 06-22-2023, 08:32 AM
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I used to use wire wheels, still good for a lot of applications. But I bought a Milwaukee battery angle die grinder with a variety of roloc discs. Makes the wire wheel seem like the stone age.

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Old 06-22-2023, 09:31 AM
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I recommend these 3M Roloc bristle discs for areas like this. Superior to wire wheels or carbide burrs and they really get down into the pits left behind by the rust. These work the best for windshield and backglass channels too.



After that brush on your epoxy primer followed by paint as tjs72lemans mentioned.

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Old 06-22-2023, 10:19 AM
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Havent seen those yet, I am running low thinking about putting an order in, will look for those as well.

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Old 06-22-2023, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAKerry View Post
Havent seen those yet, I am running low thinking about putting an order in, will look for those as well.
As with just about everything 3M makes, they are kind of expensive. I lucked out finding a deal on ebay awhile back and bought several of them in different grits. I found the 2" green ones to be the best grit for removing rust.

https://www.roarksupply.com/product-p/048011-18730.htm

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Old 06-22-2023, 11:33 AM
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You have to be careful with wire wheels on sheet metal. It actually work hardens the metal with all the little impacts. You can end up developing cracks.

Several of the guys on my WWII jeep group said that. I ignored them and wire wheeled the hell out of my fenders because it was easy. Low and behold I developed several cracks and had to get out the MIG.

Obviously, people do it, so Im not telling anyone not to do it, especially professionals. All Im saying is I was warned about it, ignored the warning and it bit me. SO now Im more careful.

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Old 06-22-2023, 12:55 PM
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I love the Roloc wheels but I burned through them too fast.

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Old 06-22-2023, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Reid View Post
I love the Roloc wheels but I burned through them too fast.
Are you talking about their bristle discs? I get pretty good life out of them with some care. But if you catch a sharp edge of something it can damage the bristles and make them not last well at all.

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'83 Chevy Choo Choo SS El Camino - LT1 350/4L60e, Owned for 30 Years, completed 2nd restomod in 2018 PHOTO
2019 BMW 440ix - Twin turbo I6, 8spd auto. PHOTO
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  #18  
Old 06-22-2023, 03:33 PM
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Roger, I was stripping my entire car to metal. I used everything from razor blades to wire cups. The Rolocs were great but I was eating them up at a higher rate than the other things and as you say, they're pricey.
One thing I love about them is they are really easy on the metal. Almost a burnished finish.

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Last edited by Greg Reid; 06-22-2023 at 03:38 PM.
  #19  
Old 06-22-2023, 04:01 PM
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Oh yeah, not the right thing to choose for stripping paint on the car for sure. For that, I've been using these from Roarke Supply on an angle grinder:

https://www.roarksupply.com/XtraStri...c-p/sd-blk.htm

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'83 Chevy Choo Choo SS El Camino - LT1 350/4L60e, Owned for 30 Years, completed 2nd restomod in 2018 PHOTO
2019 BMW 440ix - Twin turbo I6, 8spd auto. PHOTO
'55 Chevy Bel Air Sport Coupe - Ram Jet 350 / T56 Magnum 6spd, Restomod Completed Sept. 2012, Sold Sept. 2021 PHOTO
  #20  
Old 06-22-2023, 06:25 PM
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Those do look like they'd get it done. I definitely need to upgrade to a 7-in grinder too. I'm using a four and a half incher.

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