[dataway]

I've got some new mounts I'd like to put on my 68 GTO. The car is on a Quick Jack so I have plenty of room underneath. I'd like to replace the engine mounts in situ ... engine fully installed, exhaust hooked up.

Obviously I'll need to lift the engine a tad. I'd rather not bring my big break-down engine hoist from the barn to the shop and assemble it just to have to disassemble it and move it back (it's cold and wet up here).

So, first can I get to the mounts well enough with everything assembled (no front clip) to replace them. And .. is there a way to jack the engine up enough from the bottom to take the pressure off the mounts so I can replace them.

Thought about the front pulley ... doesn't seem like a good idea, don't think the oil pan with a board or something would be good either. Edge of the bell housing (automatic). Starter motor? (just kidding).

Possible? Or stupid?

[Sirrotica]

If you're going to do one side at a time, you're only lifting 4-500 lbs. From previous experience doing it in chassis you'll have more room to work if you lift only the side you're working on. I use a bottle jack, and a block of wood resting on the oil pan rail to lift it.

I know you probably don't need to be told, but use some blocking before you stick your hands in where they could get pinched, if for some reason the bottle jack would fail.

I've tried lifting it in the center, but it works better to lift one side at a time because tilting the engine gives you a little bit more wiggle room to work.

That's how I do it, others can chime in on their techniques.

[David Jones]

I've also used the one side at a time method with good success.

[dmac]

Watch the fan shroud

[form74]

I did this on my Firebird On a lift but are used a piece of wood under the oil pan and used one of those stabilizers that They use as a protection when the car is on the lift that adjusts and just crank it up enough to change them out wanted to time.

Should be able to do the same thing with a floor jack in my opinion

[dataway]

Excellent folks, thank you ... that sounds doable.

Thanks for the warning about the shroud ... and yes I do need to be told to do things like use blocks to keep from crushing my hand ... again

I'll be installing the new Ames mounts ... hopefully they are a good fit.

[Joe's Garage]

Disconnect positive cable from the battery

Remove the fan. You can leave it sitting inside the shroud, if you'd like.

We've always lifted (tilted, actually) using wood under the oil pan.

Loosen BOTH thru bolts, then remove only one and tilt. Don't jack it way up, just enough to clear - can be adjusted after you remove the attaching bolts that hold the mount to the block. Stick a chunk of 2x4 in between the exhaust manifold and frame just in case.

Replace THAT mount, torque the attaching bolts, lower the engine and reinstall the thru bolt. Thread it in, but leave it slightly loose.

Remove the OTHER side thru bolt.

Lift/tilt again and replace the 2nd mount. Remember the 2x4 chunk.

Lower and replace the 2nd thru bolt. Leave threaded in, but loose.

With the bolts in place, lift slightly and lower to center the engine.

Tighten the thru bolts, replace the fan, connect the battery cable.

All done.

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by form74

I did this on my Firebird On a lift but are used a piece of wood under the oil pan and used one of those stabilizers that They use as a protection when the car is on the lift that adjusts and just crank it up enough to change them out wanted to time.

Should be able to do the same thing with a floor jack in my opinion

I have put the car on a pair of car ramps. Just enough so that the floor jack would go easily under the oil pan with a wood block (to not scratch the pan).

Then I used my "two step" step stool to be at a nice height over the fenders.

I have removed the engine from the 64 GTO that way (one mount side at a time) many times, same deal for installing headers over the years.

If you have a Cherry Picker, you can lift one side at a time with that vs a floor jack and many times that is as safe or safer vs a floor jack or bottle jack.

Tom V.

[67Fbird]

pst...probably want to remove the dizzy cap too (no need to remove plug wires....just cap ).....hate to hear that CRACK sound when it hits the firewall.

[sdbob]

Many years ago I made a 3/16" plate 'box' to go around oil pan that rests on oil pan rail bolts and with clearance at bottom of pan,about same size as sump, for things like this.

[track73]

The last time I changed engine mounts I had a difficult time with through bolts. So, I kept the bolts to the block loose while I installed the through bolts, then I torqued the bolts to the block.

[Joe's Garage]

So you can use a hammer to 'encourage' the bolts to go through.......and then wrench them in and tighten.

Some of the newer-made motor mounts are off a little dimensionally, too. Because of the give in the rubber, they will still work.

[1969400HO]

I did this last summer , I suggest lift one side at a time and leave other side loose bolted so it tilts for you.
I used a cherry picker from top side .
A little more inconvenience was worth the safety of things.
Yes remove fan to make room for the fan blade to shroud, and loosen the tran cross pieces possible linkage too, and engine mounts etc.
Remember youre fighting the exhaust pipes so if you leave them attached will make it all "spring loaded" .
Putting 500+ pounds of squash on your oil pan gasket using it as a lift point isn't a good idea!!
IMO the extra work to use a top side lift is well worth it for room to work sakes.

[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by 1969400HO

I did this last summer , I suggest lift one side at a time and leave other side loose bolted so it tilts for you.
I used a cherry picker from top side .
A little more inconvenience was worth the safety of things.
Yes remove fan to make room for the fan blade to shroud, and loosen the tran cross pieces possible linkage too, and engine mounts etc.
Remember youre fighting the exhaust pipes so if you leave them attached will make it all "spring loaded" .
Putting 500+ pounds of squash on your oil pan gasket using it as a lift point isn't a good idea!!
IMO the extra work to use a top side lift is well worth it for room to work sakes.

FWIW, I've lifted dozens of Pontiacs to change motor mounts, and for other service operations using the oil pan rail as a lift point from the bottom, on customer cars as well as my own cars. I've never encountered any leakage from using the pan rail as a lift point. I wouldn't worry one iota about lifting the engine using a block of wood on the pan rail area.

In my 50 years of wrenching for a living, I believe there is such a thing as weighing out the benefits, as opposed to difficulty of performing work necessary. Lifting an engine from the top to save an oil pan gasket from being compressed too far, possibly causing an oil leak, is in that area of being overly cautious.

It's not like there is all the weight concentrated on 1/4 of an inch, the end of a 2X4 is 3 1/2 inches by 1 1/2 inches. spreading the load over a wide area, and lifting on the bolt heads, which can't compress anyway.

If anyone thinks the oil pan will leak after using this method I described, then by all means lift the engine from the top. Practical experience proves otherwise that no damage to the oil pan gasket will be sustained. In my experience, the fear of ruining the oil pan seal by using it as a lift point, is a non issue.

Not everyone owns an engine hoist either, (I don't, I use a chain fall to lift engines from the chassis), but they most likely own a bottle jack, and a short piece of 2X4. If I subscribed to the crushed oil pan gasket theory, I'd have to remove the hood to use the chain fall, subjecting the paint and windshield to possible damage. I'll use the tried, and true oil pan lift point.

[Formula jg]

Please post some pics whenever you get around to replacing the mounts, I bought a set some time ago and would like to get’r-done.