[kaptinkafeen]

Hi to all,
I know this topic has been discussed at length, and I've read a number of older posts regarding rear springs and ride height.
I replaced my '72 TA's rear spring bushings (both the shackle ends) with rubber pieces from NPD (part# C-7524-2A). New front bushings as well (I can't find the part # at the moment).
There was no issue with the springs previous; all I did was disassemble, clean, and instal new rubber spring pads.
I didn't take any measurements pre disassembly, however, the car sat fine; I should qualify that by saying, visually it appear to be sitting at a good ride height.
Now, although the gas tank is empty, the rear glass is out of the car, and there is no trunk lid on, the car sits at horrible 31.25" (measured from the ground to the wheel lip). I understand that the car can "settle" and the extra weight of the fuel, glass, and trunk lid will assist in this, but I can't see it dropping to the desired 27-28" range.
I followed the assembly manual while reassembling the suspension, keeping things lose until the car was sitting on its own weight.

Did I miss something during reassembly? I realize that there are lowering blocks, the springs can be de-arched and new springs that I can be purchased, I just can't fathom why simply replacing the bushing would create this "mess".
Any suggestions? Any part of the reassembly that I should revisit?
Thanks!
-Andrew

[Formulabruce]

Andrew, Per the assy manual, you install the parts "Loose" and then tighten after the Laden weight has set on the ground. You are bound to get a lot more "rubber" twist torque with new bushings.
The rubbers on the axle pad tend to be way thicker than stock, and should be shaved so the bottom shock plate and axle plate touch easily and don't bend when tightened.
If your car sits that high, the suspension is probably NOT working..
Loosen it up and give it another try. Never hurts to grease the shackle bolts inside the bushings.
Good luck !

[kaptinkafeen]

Thanks for the tips.

* When installing the new rear bushing I did lube them and the bolts that slide into them.
* All the nuts on the rear shackles and front spring mount were left lose until the car was lowered onto its own weight. (The bolts are still lose). Additionally, the endlinks of the rear stabilizer bar have also been left lose.
* I believe the rubber spring pads are seated correctly. The centre of the pads align with the holes in upper and lower spring saddles . They "hug" the spring with no noticeable twist or bind once the axle bolts are tighten - they sit flush. (When you suggest "shaved" - do you mean the edges of the rubber - the portion that wraps around the axle?)

When my friend applies a downward force to the rear of the car, I do see some movement in the rear shackle area. It's not much, but it rotates a small amount.

The car does sit level. +/- 1/4 of an inch between the L and R sides heights.
I'll go at again and see what happens. I don't see an obvious mistake in the instal, and would hate to be repeating the same old error over and over and over ugh

*Would swapping the L spring over the the R side and visa versa have any effect?
*the front spring bushing - are there any nuances that I should consider?
Thanks a million!
-A

[Formulabruce]

I was, as you stated, talking about where the rubber wraps around sides of spring and its total thickness. The shock plate metal should touch the axle perch saddle.
I have swapped R to L on many 1970-72 cars just because the DS usually is more worn.
How is the "Eye" bolt up front? Loose?
It might take rolling the car a car length or two to get it settle in.
Good luck@!

[Bentwheelbob]

Loosen it all up, finish the car, and then make a determination. You’ve got a long way and a lot of weight to go. Bumper, spare tire, interior (?) etc,

[njsteve]

I have tinkered quite a bit with my spring setups in several cars over the years t get them to sit properly and not look like a 4X4.

Go here for the latest version. (You may need to get your rear springs de-arched by someone with the proper contraption)

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...664082&page=25

[kaptinkafeen]

Thanks for all the replies.

I will take another look at the spring saddles as was suggested, and then seeing as the car is empty of an interior, trunk lid, rear bumper, rear glass, and has an empty fuel tank, will wait to finish up the reassembly to see if the suspension changes. (My gut feeling is that it wont, but heck I don't have anything to lose).
I did read a few thread about de-arching, lowering springs and lowering blocks, and ultimately, if the car doesn't settle from this horrible 30.25" height I'll have no choice but to "fiddle"
Blows my mind that reusing the old spring, and simply installing new bushing could have raised the car so much ugh

-A

[njsteve]

30.25 inches is too high for a fully assembled car by about 2 inches. But that number is irrelevant when your car is minus all the parts you listed - that's about 500 pounds or so. Wait til you have all the parts back on the car including the interior, spare tire, and a full tank of gas. (one gallon of gas weighs 6 pounds so you're talking around 110 lbs right there) Then you can make an accurate measurement to see if you really are out of spec. I'm gonna make an educated guess and say your ride height will be correct once you get the car assembled.

If not, any decent heavy truck spring business will have the contraption for de-arching a set of springs. I pulled mine out and brought them to Stengel Brothers and told them I needed the ride height lowered one inch. They told me to go get a cup of coffee and the pair were done when I got back from Dunkin Donuts. I think the charged around $50.