[SR-71]

Sort of off topic unless you're trying to remove rust, but.... Check out the site www.safestrustremover.com I don't sell it just use it. It's unreal! It is as easy as they show on their site. I'm working on a decklid now and it has removed the rust leaving the sheet metal bare like it was when first stamped. I bought a gallon of concentrate and used a sump pump just like they show and unlike most stuff you read about it flat works.

[arbys]

That looks like a fantastic product. What is the time required to remove the rust.? Are we talking hours or days?

[1966geeto]

Originally Posted by SR-71

Sort of off topic unless you're trying to remove rust, but.... Check out the site www.safestrustremover.com I don't sell it just use it. It's unreal! It is as easy as they show on their site. I'm working on a decklid now and it has removed the rust leaving the sheet metal bare like it was when first stamped. I bought a gallon of concentrate and used a sump pump just like they show and unlike most stuff you read about it flat works.

Looks like some good stuff I use a product called picklex you can get it in smaller quantities at Autobodystore.com still not cheap but well worth it did the whole bottom of my car then used red scotch-bright pads and coated with zerorust came out really nice.

[arbys]

Pictures?

[1966geeto]

I should have taken before but was to busy prepping I pressure washed the undercarriage then treated it with picklex for adhesion purposes after the picklex dried I scuffed the whole thing with red scotch bright pads then used a paint prep then coated with zero rust stuff is hard as a rock and really bites into the metal plus it has a satin look not like por15 has gloss look I think it came out great.

[arbys]

I was wondering how you applied it. Did you put a tarp under it and then paint the picklex on or did you hydrate with a small sump pump like SR-71 showed with the Saferustremoval?

[1966geeto]

Used a bug sprayer worked great then rolled on the Zerorust used 2qts went one way then back over it the other way.

[bammbam]

molasses from the feed store does the same thing and is a lot cheaper. you can make 10-20 gallons with 1 gallon of feed grade molasses that costs around $10

[TheCirque]

Originally Posted by bammbam

molasses from the feed store does the same thing and is a lot cheaper. you can make 10-20 gallons with 1 gallon of feed grade molasses that costs around $10

Now what??? Molasses removes rust? I'm so confused.

[arbys]

Originally Posted by bammbam

molasses from the feed store does the same thing and is a lot cheaper. you can make 10-20 gallons with 1 gallon of feed grade molasses that costs around $10

Please explain how this is used. Do you just dip it in or do you you have the solution flow around the object?

I've got some 30-31 Buick fenders that I'd like to remove the rust from before selling.

[eric65]

Not to Hijack on original topic of that rust remover, but I've done a lot of recent DIY rust removing.
I started using electrolysis.. which is using Super Washing soda and rebar type exectrode grid and then applying the battery charger method.. Worked very good as long as the electrode grid could use line-of-sight to the rust to be removed.
My tank


the subject to get the rust off


battery charger note meter flowing 20amps cooking.. this goes down I have the charger at the highest setting and use that for a while then back it off


its cooking-- Important point Negative lead to your part and Positive lead to your grid..


ok here it is after 3 days or 4 i cant remember .. A little wire brushing and I do mean minimal to remove scale and it now has a coating of naval jelly to keep it from rusting back or flashing


Ok so that was fine for electrolysis and it could do great for certain things like wheel wells or things with no hidden areas.

THe next thing on my resto is the frame and suspension A Arms Control arm and such. Well these have many hidden areas I had to figure how to get these with a good method of DIY rust removal. Sandblasting was an option and I did try to blast the frame but it was taking a ton of sand to do a small area I could not see buying all that Black Beauty at 8bucks for 50#....
I researched Molasses from the net and youtube and found a lot if info.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZCFcxf5IBw


So i tried Molasses for the control arms and suspension parts. and found it worked very well.. You do use feed grade molasses not the human consumption one. Feed grade has been sulphur ized or so as I researched and it needs to be this kind of molasses.
I bought dried Molasses from a local feed store as shown


here are some parts in the tank with molasses


a close up of just how rusty the control arms are


here is a mid-way pix... this is after 2 solid weeks in the molasses solution. Ok I said solution how much did I use.. THat bag shown was 50pounds I used about 20pounds of it in this tank.. and this tank was around 60 gallons of water


Ok I thought this was working really well and after I failed in the sandblasting part of my frame I thought ... If I could build a big enough tank I could molasses dip my frame.. Well I couldnt fingure out how to get the inside of the frame rails anyway so though what the heck..
After getting permission and begging my wife that I could build a tank and keep it somewhat hidden I build this..


THis tank is 16' by 6' and 2 foot deep.. How did I build it? I got some forms from a local concrete company which were 8'x2' and they were about giving them away.. 20 bucks for about 12 of them.. I bought 2-16' 2x4's and about 2-2x4's and had some scrap wood as well.. I bought a large tarp from ebay it was 12'x20' and bought some 6mil plastic. Built the wood structure and put the tarp liner in then the 6mil plastic over the tarp... It holds water fine(which it had to) and really didnt use a ton of water to fill.. Its like watering the lawn for about 5hours. BTW I used 3 - 50pounds bags of the dry molasses in this water solution...


Ok I had my frame in here and as well tansfered all my suspension parts to this tank as well. To cover this I used another big tarp with some cross boarding to keep it tight and water, leaves and what ever out as well as keeping the smell down as Molasses rust removing is very odorous... major complaint from the wife here.

Ok that was late Spetember the suspension parts have been in Molasses for over a month and my frame 3 weeks of October here.
This past Sunday I started taking the suspension parts out and processing them for primer..
Here are some shots and you can see how nice they have come out from the beginning with little labor.






These when you remove them need washing with the hose and water could use some Dawn as well.. Then they need wire brushed some to remove any mess. They do flash qucikly so you need to process them as fast as possible. Then prime as quick as possible.

My frame is still in the tank and will need a couple of more weeks.


THis has worked well for me on a big scale.. Molasses does not remove paint. The electrolysis will and electrolysis will remove undercoating.

I completely agree with the above rust removing products and they work great if you can get your part in a 5 gallon bucket.. I have some Eastwoods Rust Remover and its a Hydrachloric mix that works great but again I cant do parts on a big scale with it. I did also buy 5 gallons of Evapo-Rust from Nothern Tool for about $110 shipped..

[bammbam]

the product mentioned in the beginning and others like evaporust all have the same active cleating agent found in molasses

nice detailed post eric65 - i too tried to do my frame but I only had access to liquid molasses and the cost was going to be astronomical.

2 things I found with the molasses is that the strength of your solution and the severity of the rust will determine how long it needs to soak. Most of my parts only took a week. even soaked my engine block that was all rusty

second, the part doesn't have to soak. I used an aquarium pump and let the solution "flow" over the frame and just kept circulating the molasses.

[arbys]

I just checked "The Feedbag" for the dried molasses and they quoted $21.95 for a 50# bag. Tractor Supply has a one gallon jug of Evolved Molasses for $9.99. Which route should I go?

[eric65]

arby's the dried will go much further as far as solution. From what I've seen you need about 7 to 1 liquid so for the 1 gallon liquid molasses to 7 gallons water you only get 8 gallons of workable material.
The dried 20pounds will do great in a 60gallon tank. The dried will be much cheaper// To do the 60gallon tank example I used you would need about 6-7 gallons of the liquid ~$70 verses the $21 for more than enough for 60gallon tank I used
This is based on my experiments. See upper pictures of the smaller tank I used.. I only switched parts to the big tanks when I went hole hog with the frame.

[Tempest]

eric65, What a great post, and great pics to go with it. Thanks for sharing.

Winter is starting to close in up here, (Great White North) so how do you think temperature effects the results? (of course I don't want it freezing) as I would have to do this outside, as my garage is attached to the house, and if I start brewing molasses in the garage, that may be 'pushing my luck' as far as the other members in the house are concerned. (if you know what I mean)

How did the results compare between molasses and electrolysis?

Also, how do you plan to dispose of the Molasses mixture when you are done? will it kill grass, and anything else it comes in contact with? is it toxic?

Thanks again for a great post, you have me thinking

[arbys]

I was thinking of taking my 31 Buick rear fenders in a 55 gal plastic barrel and then put a garden fountain pump in there to circulate the molasses/water mixture.

[eric65]

Tempest thanks!! I would not suggest you do it in a building unless its a out-type building.. It smells really bad kind of like a garbage truck after a bit At first it kind of smells like hopps brewing but turns more yeckish after a while. I have my tank sealed up pretty well No kidding the smell of this is the biggest drawback.. I would stick to outside although I dont know about its freezing temp being a solution like it is .. I would say it would freeze at less than 32deg.. I know in colder temps it is going to take longer to de-rust as any acid will.

As far as disposal...both these methods are eco-friendly unlike stronger acids.. Easy.. The electrolysis water I used to water the lawn and the grass loved it.. Its only sodium carbonate water and iron from the rust .. some paint etc but the solution is flushable or dump it anywhere.

The Molasses is about the same. Its feed grade so the farmers use it to enhance straw hay feed etc to get horses cattle to eat more and fatten them up for steaks and horseburgers.. sweet.. so I am going to pump it down my back yard and it will become a deer lick.. You can actually get blocks of molasses for licks for wildlife baiting etc..

the results are good with both but i think the electrolysis is more limited on the part you can do as the +positive electrode grid of re-bar has to see the rust line of sight .. So say inside of frame rails it will not get... or something with a hidden side it will not remove the rust...
The molasses is good for getting it all, the draw backs to it are its need much more time, weeks compared to days and it smells bad.. And it is hard to wash the smell off you when your retrieving parts as well.. I had to use straight Clorox and then baking soda to get the smell off my arms a couple of times...

I was thinking of taking my 31 Buick rear fenders in a 55 gal plastic barrel and then put a garden fountain pump in there to circulate the molasses/water mixture.

arbys moving the solution is a great idea and would easily speed up the process.. would like to hear your results on that.

[Tempest]

Eric, Thanks for the feedback.

My brother has some land at his place, but I will have to wait til spring if I am going to give it a try.

Thanks again, I may try it with some suspension parts in an old laundry tub. Hopefully the smell won't banish me to the dog house for too long.

[1966geeto]

Had read about the molasses trick but time factor not for me was worth the 50$ to do the whole bottom of the car in 2 days.Plus try soaking the bottom of a shell in molasses ugh!

[68lemansman]

Originally Posted by SR-71

Sort of off topic unless you're trying to remove rust, but.... Check out the site www.safestrustremover.com I don't sell it just use it. It's unreal! It is as easy as they show on their site. I'm working on a decklid now and it has removed the rust leaving the sheet metal bare like it was when first stamped. I bought a gallon of concentrate and used a sump pump just like they show and unlike most stuff you read about it flat works.

I used this stuff on a rusty pair of bumper brackets and let it sit for a day. The next day I seen the rust falling off the brackets inside the container I had them soaking in. I took them out and rinsed them off with the garden hose and it washed off the rust and to bare metal.This stuff is awesome.