#761  
Old 03-07-2022, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grivera View Post
Like I said in post #703 https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...postcount=703:

"If you decide to do a carb there is no reason to get rid of the EFI fuel tank. Just install a universal bypass regulator like the Aeromotive 13301 or Trickflow TFS-27001 (they are the same regulator but Trickflow saves you about $50) and run the high pressure pump with a carb. This will solve any potential fuel starvation issues assuming you use the right size fuel line. I did this with my Q-Jet prior to going with the Sniper.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...iAAEgLjv_D_BwE

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...SABEgKBVvD_BwE


The Aeromotive 13301 is $196 and the Trick Flow is $142, fwiw

All that being said - looking forward to seeing video of the first drive!!!
Yeah, the Aeromotive 13301 is what I have. You can find them for $142 online, too. I paid $175 at the time for mine.

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  #762  
Old 03-10-2022, 07:12 PM
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Seat should be ready in a few weeks. If all goes good should be riding in about 2 or 3 weeks

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  #763  
Old 03-10-2022, 08:33 PM
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How are things coming along with the fuel and ignition systems? Getting closer to having a runner again?

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  #764  
Old 03-11-2022, 11:07 AM
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If my gas tank straps would come I’d be good to go. I’m a little worried about setting up the brake prop valve but there is a HS parking lot about a mile from me that I can creep to and do my best to set them up

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  #765  
Old 03-14-2022, 05:06 PM
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https://youtube.com/shorts/Ft1tTOKwVCU?feature=share

And here it is running like it’s supposed to!

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  #766  
Old 03-14-2022, 06:02 PM
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Sounds and look great!!

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Old 03-14-2022, 06:10 PM
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Nice!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  #768  
Old 03-14-2022, 06:31 PM
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Sounds great!!

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'69 Firebird 400/461, 290+ E D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears
'64 LeMans 400/461, #16 Heads, HR 230/236, TKO600, 9inch Rear, 3.89 gears
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  #769  
Old 03-14-2022, 09:35 PM
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Also idling with about 1/8 of a tank in it it ran the whole time while I tinkered with it till it ran out of gas and never got over 175/180 degrees

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  #770  
Old 03-18-2022, 05:36 AM
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Part of the reason I took that sniper off was because of the rats nest of wiring. I can honestly say for my part at least that the hardest part of the aesthetic part of this build is all these damn wires and hiding them. I am not an “I can’t” type of person but I am just not good at this. I am hoping that with some black loom and the air cleaner on it will loom passable because it really is a beautiful engine. It’s not just the electrical wire. I have hydroboost hoses and such running everywhere. The brake line from the prop valve to rear brake line was inaccessible so I had to have it made out of hydraulic hose with the proper ends crimped on at NAPA ( all in 105 dollars for 14 inches of hose and two ends, thanks Brandon). To me it just looks like a mess and if I move one thing it interferes with something else. Oh well just feeling frustrated.

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  #771  
Old 03-18-2022, 08:03 AM
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Can you post a pic for reference?

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'69 Firebird 400/461, 290+ E D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears
'64 LeMans 400/461, #16 Heads, HR 230/236, TKO600, 9inch Rear, 3.89 gears
'69 LeMans Vert, 350, #47 heads: Non-running project
  #772  
Old 03-18-2022, 08:13 AM
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Try to remember that it can take time to figure out how to optimize/organize some things, it will never be 'perfect' right out of the gate.

That's actually a good thing, because over time, it gives you stuff to tinker with on weekends and spare time. You can always go back and 'clean stuff up'.


Get it drivable and reliable, enjoy it some, then do some clean up stuff.

.

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  #773  
Old 03-18-2022, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HWYSTR455 View Post
Try to remember that it can take time to figure out how to optimize/organize some things, it will never be 'perfect' right out of the gate.

That's actually a good thing, because over time, it gives you stuff to tinker with on weekends and spare time. You can always go back and 'clean stuff up'.

Get it drivable and reliable, enjoy it some, then do some clean up stuff.
Agree with this perspective. Do your best to just get the car up and running again, then the fine-tuning of wire & hose routing can be tweaked once you've gotten past all the more critical aspects of rebuilding the car.

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  #774  
Old 03-18-2022, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HWYSTR455 View Post
Try to remember that it can take time to figure out how to optimize/organize some things, it will never be 'perfect' right out of the gate.

That's actually a good thing, because over time, it gives you stuff to tinker with on weekends and spare time. You can always go back and 'clean stuff up'.


Get it drivable and reliable, enjoy it some, then do some clean up stuff.

.
Working on cars for over 45 years, I could not have said it better!

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  #775  
Old 03-19-2022, 01:09 PM
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Well the car has moved around in the yard under its own power for the first time in 5 1/2 years. No leaks I can find and everything seems to work.

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  #776  
Old 03-21-2022, 05:48 PM
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I have to set the float level because of a flooding issue. The fuel is all the way up at the top of the bowl. Is there any way to get fuel out of the bowl without a hell of a mess?

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  #777  
Old 03-21-2022, 08:26 PM
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Just run it at idle and adjust the float down. It will use up the fuel as you adjust. Just remember, the adjuster is the nut, the slotted screw is the lock. Loosen the lock screw and turn the adjuster clockwise (it's reverse threaded so it's opposite of logic) to lower the float until the fuel level is centered in the sight glass. Then hold the nut with your wrench and tighten the locking screw down.

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  #778  
Old 03-22-2022, 05:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint View Post
(it's reverse threaded so it's opposite of logic)
This is incorrect. It is NOT reverse (left-handed) threads. It is right-hand threaded. It is true that the nut turns the needle and seat assemble and the slotted screw is the "jam-nut" or locking device. Turning the nut clockwise lowers the needle and seat. That pushes the float, and subsequent fuel level, down. Don't keep running the car with the bowl overfilled. Loosen the screw and turn the nut a few revolutions clockwise. Now start the car, remove the sight plug and hopefully bring the fuel level UP to where it needs to be. Just put a rag under the sight plug hole in case it still spills some out.

  #779  
Old 03-22-2022, 05:47 AM
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Here: https://www.google.com/search?q=holl...60PEPw7-y0Ak17

  #780  
Old 03-22-2022, 08:39 AM
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I just don’t want gas everywhere. I guess stuff rags around it?

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