[SteveGB21]

I just worked some more on the LeMans today. I was able to fix why my wipers weren't turning on. Also, fixed the tachometer not working. But, here is what I am still having trouble with. Still no horn and no headlights. Parking lights work. Directional signal outside works. Inside, now the left directional signal doesn't light up (did last weekend). I did also install a 140 amp circuit breaker for the alternator, and it didn't short out. Also, noticed my gauges (the gas all the way to empty, the temperature all the way to hot, and the oil, all the way to 80 PSI). I know this isn't correct, since the engine didn't feel too hot (I can tell when it does reach 270 degrees, and this felt more like 210 or 220). The oil was at 60 most of the time, and now it went all the way up? On the idiot lights, the Oil light NEVER came on, as well as the Temp NOT turning on (other than a couple of seconds after starting the car). So I can rule out the engine is running good. I can also say the sending units aren't defective. Just this is really scratching my head.
Heard on another forum that I need a hot lead wire. Is this the orange one from the fuse box that I will get this power from? Also, how come I didn't use it on the previous harness? It seems wierd that some stuff will be different. Also, is it true that I will have to upgrade the wire to the horn relay since I am using a higher amp alternator? I am getting close on solving some issues, but still have a long way to go. Any help is appreciated.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

You are getting power to the guages or else the needles wouldn't be pegging.
Double check ground wires to dash and instrument cluster plug.

On the headlights, use a test light, start at the headlight switch, then go to the dimmer switch. If your good to there, go to the bulkhead connector. You might want to start at the dimmer switch, you will probably find the problem, or at least know which way to go.

If you haven't added a bunch of high powered accesories, changing hot wire to horn relay will not be neccessary. The only way you would have to upgrade that wire, would be if you were using the horn relay as a junction block.

Horn relay should be hot at all times. Horn botton is just a ground to trip the horn relay.
Start at the horn relay (make sure it has power), find the wire that goes back to the horn button and ground it, horn should blow or relay should at least click.
If it clicks and no horns, check for power coming out of horn relay to horn wire. No power, bad relay. Got power, go to horns.
If grounding at the relay makes the horns work, follow the horn ground wire to the next connection untill you make it to the horn botton. Test just by grounding as you go. Horn button is the end of the line, button grounds wire to column to make it blow.

Lack of ground at the cluster, may be why turn indicator quit working.
Bulb connections and printed circuit connections can be aggrevating. You may have to bend metal contacts for them to make good connection.

[SteveGB21]

Quick-Silver,

I did take your advice and disconnected and reconnected the dimmer switch. Voila. That was the problem. The horn, found out why it wasn't working. I had the metal switch for the steering wheel button collar to plastic retainer backwards. I also put on a plastic sleeve for the pin on the horn, and found out it wasn't necessary. So I got that fixed. Now I have a horn and headlights. The left directional signal, I may just leave it for now (at least the outside work). Then, I discovered my console light for the shift indicator dial wasn't coming on. Though it was the lightbulb. Then, found out it was the ground wasn't connected.
Now some other things to look at. One of the tachometer lights doesn't work (may not have it connected right, but can fiddle with it that). It is something minor just like the inside directional signal that I can live without for now. Then, I also noticed that I didn't crimp the cigarette lighter correctly. But, can do that for tomorrow. I am GLAD I have most of the major bugs worked out. That I think I may know what is the cause of why my temperature and oil gauges climbed. I may need another ground at the battery. I figure if I have a 4 gauge going to the positive side from the 140 amp alternator, I should have a 4 gauge with the negative, alongside the 2 gauge negative right (also the positive is a 2 gauge positive)? Then, on the ground straps, I noticed there are two more that are mentioned. I just don't know where to mount them. I may find a way on that, but it is something I can also manage. Besides, I just have to keep my fluids up to par, and should be OK for the time being.

But thank you Quick-Silver. I just had to look it over and was able to fix what was wrong.