[6D6GOAT]

well, i just dropped 600 bucks on some dougs headers. this is the 2nd pair i have owned and having so much success witht he first pair i had no problem paying that for these headers (ceramic coated). right off the bat i noticed that there was a lot more room at the head flange. the down tubes drop a little bit further making it ALOt easier to get all the bolts started and tightened...but now one of the tubes on the passenger side is hitting (resting) on raised bump on the cross member....the drivers side went in no problem.

i was wondering if any else has had this problem in a 66

[DBONES152]

Vic,

I sorry I'm not posting a reply yet, but I just got my Doug's delivered today, and probably won't have a chance to install them till next week. I have a 66 GTO also and was wondering if you were able to get them in without raising the engine? I'll be glad to let you know how they fit as soon as I'm done. The weather is getting pretty crappy again here in the midwest, and I just hate laying on that cold garage floor.

Dan

[6D6GOAT]

hey dan, you will prorbably have to raise the motor to get them in. i know i had to. i also removed the oil filter unit and the starter and clutch linkage. the drivers side went in a little easier than the passenger side. let me know how they fit. the next chance i get i will take a pic of the problem area i had.

[DBONES152]

Vic,

How did you go about raising the engine? Someone told me all I have to do is loosen one mount at a time and just lift with a floor jack. I'll have the car as high as I can get it with jack stands. I hear I should shore up the oil pan with 2x4's and lift from there, but I'm doing a little more research before trying something like that.

Thanks,
Dan

[6D6GOAT]

yea, i always do the passenger side first. just remove the long 5/8th motor mount bolt. then i put a piece of plywood under the pass side of the oil pan and gently jack it up with a floor jack. just be sure not to force it. it will probably only raise an inch but thats all you will probably need. get the bolts started and gently lower it to see if it will rest on the frame. if it clears then tighten them up and move to the next one. i also got some 3/8th coarse thread bolts (1 inch long) with a 9/16th inch head for the outer cylinders. i figure you can get a bigger head on the bolt it would be easier to get better torque on them..and easier to remove. i also put 7/16th in head bolts on the center ports instead of the small 3/8th in heads that come with the headers. good luck

[DBONES152]

Thanks for the info Vic.

Dan

[wheelspin]

Vic,

What's the condition of the motor mounts? I installed Mity Mounts in my 66 GTO which increased the clearance in the area you have the problem with and oil pan to crossmember clearance.

Les

[6D6GOAT]

hey les,

the motor mounts a less than a couple years old. i really dont think its because the mounts are sagging. i just think that when they redid the dougs headers they brought the primary down tube for the #4 cylinder down a bit too far. everything else clears ok...the oil pan, the old RAMAIR III exhaust manifolds and the old pair of dougs headers i had on it a couple years ago...just not that primary down tube for the new dougs headers. i had to grind down the top of that bump on the cross memeber down a bit and i had to take a hammer to the headers to make them fit....i think they still might hit at WOT win the motor starts to twist. i was thinking about welding up a strut from the passengerside frame rail to the passenger side head to help with the engine twisting at WOT.

[6D6GOAT]

here is a pic of the problem area. i already dinged them up to get them in...

[Junkyard Dog]

Why the redesign? These things were supposed to fit great before.

[6D6GOAT]

not sure. the only problems i had with the old design is that it was very difficult to get to some bolts and i flat out couldnt get one bolt in at all but they fit well except i couldnt get a standard oil filter in and out. the new design i was able to rather easily get all the bolts in no problem but now clearance is a problem. i figure the "perfect" header will be created by spring of 2012

[Ron]

You still might want to consider the Mity Mount motor mounts. If motor mounts are the cause new Mity Mounts would raise the engine straight up and provide you additional clearance. Some of the after market motor mounts are made in China so the quality might be in question. Doug's Headers on my '65, which are a few years old now, fit great with no interference anywhere but like others I do have to use a smaller diameter oil filter.

[wheelspin]

Vic,

An easy and cheap way to keep the motor from twisting is to loop a short section of small welded chain (6-10 links) around the driver's side top A-frame cross shaft and then bolt the chain around the thick Doug's header flange between cylinders 1 and 3.

The Mity Mounts are so effective @ eliminating twist that I have removed my chain style torque stay.

Les

[67gtocpe]

Where do you get the mity mounts??
I have the same problem on my 67 GTO.

[SGTGTO]

Are the flanges the same thickness as the older ones?

[Zig'sbird]

Has anyone tried these Mity Mounts with a 2nd gen TA?

[6D6GOAT]

Originally Posted by SGTGTO

Are the flanges the same thickness as the older ones?

yes they appear to be the nice thick flanges just like the older ones i had. if you need i can measure the thickness the next time i am out there.

[Big Injun]

You can purchase Mity Mounts direct at http://www.mitymounts.com/pontiac.htm. I know Butler Performance and OPG carry them...not sure about PY.

Great Product!

[SGTGTO]

I'd say check the thickness on them. That seems to be the in thing... new headers haveing "ultra thick flanges for a warp free seal!" If they are any thicker, that may be the problem.

[6D6GOAT]

no, i know the problem is because the tubes are dropped down further to make it easier to get fingers in there to get the bolts started. not to thick of a flange.