[Formulajones]

That's kind of like having a panhard bar as far as room goes (had 4th gens like that). Makes running a dual exhaust tricky, especially 3".

[Rincon]

If you have an open rear it probably does not help so much. If you have a positive rear it helps more. When the car leans one way or another due to twisting forces of engine torque it resists that and when you let up on the gas between shifts or at the end of a run it resists that as well. So I'm lead to believe.

[Paul E]

For the Lemans I used a Nova fuel tank, changed the fill tube from my old tank to make it the correct fill location. My 2 1/2 tail pipes fit with plenty of room. I kind of was surprised how much room I had with this kit for the exhaust. Difference between a panhard and a watts link is the pan hard bar controls one side and move the rearend back and forth. The watts link with the propeller shaft design only lets it go up and down and it is with bearings so still have a smooth ride on the street. also will not allow the rear end to bounce left to right as it can only pretty much go up and down. Just a different option that is not as widely known, and something that I have found to be an excellent addition for my style of driving. I added it for better street performance.

[Old Goat Racer]

I ordered 3 suspension/race kits about 2 months ago. I was told the upper arms were on back order.
Called them this past Monday and left a message. Haven't heard back.
Are they still in business ?

[Scarebird]

Originally Posted by Tim Corcoran

Well not exactly that easy I have boxed lower control arms with no holes for the sway bar. I need to locate and drill holes in the correct location? Then unbox a section so I can weld in some support tubes so the control arm won't crush when the bar is tightened up and in use, then add a patch in where I unboxed. And of course I don't have a welder and really not much experience at welding anyhow.

When I was a broke-ass student I got a rear bar for my 69 Cutlass. Measured where the holes were from a friend's Rallye 350 and drilled the holes and mounted the bar. Arms started to tweak. Uh oh...

Friend's dad took a look and made a pair of blocks out out hardwood to fit inside. We drilled the holes thru and remounted the bar. No issues at all - and the Cutlass did turn nicer. Granted, a low buck solution but it worked perfectly.

That said, HIS is correct; the OEM bar really binds up the suspension.
I fabbed a custom setup for the 71 (my skills have improved a bit in 4 decades) and it is lighter and doe not bind.

[KEN CROCIE]

back in '68 i installed a factory 7/8" rear bar bought new from the dealer. Used the bar to locate the holes. cut 4 pieces of water pipe to snugly fit inside the control arm. got 4 gr.8 bolts and tightened. car handled noticeably better and had no trouble with the installation. used that setup till '83, until we started making our own sway bars. used the GTO as a development car for the "strong arm" suspension pkg.

[Tom Vaught]

MY EXPERIENCE TOO KEN.

I used one of the big rear "Strong Arm" sway bars on Marty Palbykin's 71 GTO that he raced naturally aspirated.
It did NOT launch well (even with adjustable upper arms) before the rear bar installation.
I gave him the rear bar to try on the car and it fixed the launch issue.

He used to have to actually sit on the line "Cocked left" before the bar was installed to go straight after the launch.
The car launched evenly after the installation.

So I do not think every situation is the same for how the bars work on the installation.

This was way back in the 1993-1994 time frame.

Tom V.