[Tim Corcoran]

Hey guys

I know a rear sway bar helps with cornering but in a 67 LeMans would a rear sway bar improve off the line traction? Will it help me hook up? Thanks.

I know no hop bars work for that purpose because it changes the IC but what about a sway bar?

[shaker455]

I don't think so Tim
Jeff

[mchell]

An anti-roll bar would help....a sway bar that attaches to the rear lower trailing arms will not do you favors for traction

I’ll be installing an anti roll bar shortly...results pending

[Formulajones]

Got a Home Improvement fan up there

Technically Tim, yes it does help to level the rear a bit on acceleration as it will try to pick up the right rear tire. The usual drag race fix is to run a right rear air bag to help with this, and that is a big help, but I found on the cars with the rear sway bars I didn't have to run as much air in the bag.

Basically just trying to keep the right rear tire planted and it helps to level out the car on launch. Plus I like having the sway bar regardless because they are street cars too that see a lot of road miles.

[Mike Davis]

A factory type sway bar has little affect on straight line traction. Something like a HR parts, UMI or BMR that bolts to the rear housing and has links to the crossmember will help with the torque effect and keep the rear from trying to drive the right rear tire up through the wheel well on launch.

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by mchell

An anti-roll bar would help....a sway bar that attaches to the rear lower trailing arms will not do you favors for traction

A sway bar IS an anti-roll bar. Two names for the same thing. There's various methods of connecting them to the suspension.

The design that connects suspension to body or frame tends to be more efficient than the kind that just connects one side of the suspension to the other side of the suspension.

Yes, sway bars/anti-roll bars "help" with launch. They don't help a lot, but they help some. And as said, the sort that connect suspension to frame or body tend to have more effect, or can use smaller-diameter bars.

[Scott65]

HR Parts and Stuff anti roll bar is a well made, and well designed product, that does what the manufacturer claims. There are other types, and other brands of course. That type of bar will be a help in the traction department. And honestly it helps handling some too. Though they advise if you daily drive your car to disconnect the link on one side. Or at least they did many years ago when I got mine. Its basically so you don't wear out the rod ends due to frequent use. I leave mine hooked up cause my car doesn't see a lot of miles.

[Tim Corcoran]

I have a drag car and I know how to make it hook, spool in the rear, no hob bars to change instant center, HRParts & Stuff anti roll bar, adjustable upper control arms to adjust pinion angle, air bags, 50/50 shock in the rear 90/10's in the front all that stuff yeah I know about all that. I also have a street rod and was wondering if the sway bar I have laying around would help it hook on the street. Looks like the answer is no. Thanks for your responses.

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by Tim Corcoran

I also have a street rod and was wondering if the sway bar I have laying around would help it hook on the street. Looks like the answer is no. Thanks for your responses.

You already own the thing. Try it and find out.

I bet it "helps"; but it's no substitute for a sorted-out drag suspension.

[KEN CROCIE]

Tim: It depends on the diameter of the bar. The factory 7/8" bar not so much, my old H-O 1-3/8" bar was noticeable. I say this because of positive feedback from many customers.

[Tom Vaught]

I THINK IT DEPENDS ON THE SITUATION.

I have seen cases where it helped the car launch straight at about 740 hp and no air bags.

In other cases the air bags did the job and the rear bar was not needed.

Very hard for me to say "yes, it works all the time" vs it depends of many variables.

Tom V.

ps Since Ken C responded, your 1-3/8" rear bar really helped Martys non boosted 700+ hp GTO, Ken.

[Formulajones]

If you already have it Tim, there is no harm in trying it. Pretty easy to install and remove.

I've had good success with stock rear bars myself with just a few other simple changes that you mentioned. No hop bars, adjustable uppers, adjustable shocks. Nothing fancy.

Both of our A-bodies will cut 1.5 60 foot times with nice little wheelies, and they launch straight. One is just under 4,000 lbs. and the other is over 4,000 lbs. Both have stock 7/8 rear bars. Dad is pushing over 700hp through this simple setup now, and it just flat hooks with a 275 drag radial. But the best part is they drive like a stock car should on the street. They are just street cars after all.
I even prefer it on my 70 formula (leaf spring) with it's stock small rear bar. I tried the bigger TA bar on the back but it did nothing more for 60 foot times on this particular car.

Not saying this is the best way to go, but with some experimentation it's worked pretty well for me for a few decades putting a fair amount of power down with minimal money spent.

[Tim Corcoran]

Well not exactly that easy I have boxed lower control arms with no holes for the sway bar. I need to locate and drill holes in the correct location? Then unbox a section so I can weld in some support tubes so the control arm won't crush when the bar is tightened up and in use, then add a patch in where I unboxed. And of course I don't have a welder and really not much experience at welding anyhow.

[Skip Fix]

"I even prefer it on my 70 formula (leaf spring) with it's stock small rear bar."-Even autocrossing mine worked better even with road race slicks. The big WS6 TA rear bar would pick up an inside wheel in a turn-or a big slant driveway taken at an angle. I have one on the &* TA and the Camaro IA project and both launch pretty straight-but the F body ones are closer to the "anti roll bar design" tied to the body somewhat.

Tim I bet you could find some stock type rear arms for cheaper than the time it would take to do that. Lots of guys take them off to put aftermarket ones on.Pretty sure the Buick GS lowers are the same also.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by Tim Corcoran

Well not exactly that easy I have boxed lower control arms with no holes for the sway bar. I need to locate and drill holes in the correct location? Then unbox a section so I can weld in some support tubes so the control arm won't crush when the bar is tightened up and in use, then add a patch in where I unboxed. And of course I don't have a welder and really not much experience at welding anyhow.

Just an FYI related. The factory style bracing for the control arms is reproduced and available. So it welds in to stiffen the arms as well as provides support for the bolts, just like originals, and they are cheap.

I mention this because it's relatively easy and cheap to find a set of regular control arms.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/o...0aAqLHEALw_wcB


They also sell the shims that you'll sometimes find between the arm itself and the bar where it mounts. My Chevelle with it's factory bar has 2 shims factory installed on one side.

[Tim Corcoran]

The set that's on the car now are not boxed I just bought the kit from Summit now I have an excuse to buy that welder. I'll weld those in and try the bar out after I get the no hop bars. The thing I hate about Summit is the darn handling fee for anything under a 100 bucks with I could get them from Amazon. Thanks for the tip Formula.

[Formulajones]

You're welcome Tim,

Some more stuff to think about, lol.
Here are the control arms at Amazon, boxed and ready to go for the sway bar.

https://www.amazon.com/Inline-Tube-B.../dp/B0141JQ06S

But I like your excuse to get a welder idea better

[Half-Inch Stud]

Proper rear sway bar as a "launch stabilizer" resides under the 70-81 T/A ans 94-97 Lincoln TownCar.

The fella that designed the lovely A-Body Rear Bar with Boxed Lowers, got a D in Physics, and drank & smoked too much.

Proper design incurs Production higher-cost and possible end-link maintenance.

[Formulajones]

Take it on and off your Abody and tell me you find no difference.....

[Paul E]

Something that will help is a WATTS link. I have one on my 73 Cougar (rear leaf) and it was so nice for normal street driving smooth when straight but sets the roll center when turning. Does not cause a rough ride. Best improvement I ever did in an older car. For my 70 lemans I also put in a WATTS link and am very close to driving it. It sets the rear end so it can pretty much only move up and down. It is adjustable for roll center. Worth a look.
www.fays2.net