[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

I also agree that a properly functioning PCV valve is all positives. Only reason I don't run one on the initial startup and break-in is that it is a terrible time to find one of the many bad ones that try and suck the engine dry. Once the engine has the break-in time, then I toss on the PCV valve and check to make sure it's working correctly. Our group has had so many malfunctioning PCV valves that it's not worth the risk on the first startup.

I buy the Ford Part Number Valves (I have the list, LOL) from Ford Dealers NOS stock and typically have a lifetime valve on the installations I have made on Pontiac Vehicles.

I CANNOT disagree on your issues with the PCV Issues out there (Chinese made).

Tom V.

[chuckies76ta]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

Last Point, Pontiac engines put on a engine dyno as there because the owners care about engine power,
not long term durability of the engine components due to the corrosive gases generated by the engine when running.

So do whatever makes you happy.

Tom V.

B.S. I didn't build a 30K engine cause I don't care about corrosive gases. I did put on dyno to seat rings, break it in, check engine for whatever, and testing. Having said that, part of the reason I do use a vacuum pump is it removes alot of moisture and contaminants from the engine. Open the hood and you can smell the gases being released from the catch can. Just saying.

[tekuhn]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

If the air cleaner is a factory air cleaner, yes.

If the air cleaner is a open element air cleaner maybe.
I say that because there were some California 1966 Tri-Power GTOs
that had the fresh air intake for the crankcase attached to the bases of the Tri-Power air cleaners.
See photo below.

Tom V.

1965 too. I rebuilt this WS engine back in 1985 from a CA car. Not sure if it was all Fremont cars, or only those for sale in CA. This system ensures the crankcase fumes are still pulled into the combustion chambers, even at WOT when the PCV is non-functional.

[Wade Congdon]

Crankcase pressure is the most common reason we see for leaking rear main seals. There is a reason the factory vented engines from the valley pan AND from the valve cover. The more venting, especially when you can pull with a negative pressure the better!

[Tom Vaught]

tekuhn, nice knowing you. Sorry that you will not be posting for a while when your wife finds out you put your Tri-Power Parts on her bed and nice bedspread.
I would be sleeping in the garage (unheated) or basement if I did that with my Tri-Power parts.

(Just some fun here in December) Tom Vaught
Nice picture though and thanks for the group picture of the parts.

[tekuhn]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

tekuhn, nice knowing you. Sorry that you will not be posting for a while when your wife finds out you put your Tri-Power Parts on her bed and nice bedspread.
I would be sleeping in the garage (unheated) or basement if I did that with my Tri-Power parts.

(Just some fun here in December) Tom Vaught
Nice picture though and thanks for the group picture of the parts.

LOL - surely you can tell from that bedspread, the picture was taken in 1985! I've been back in the house at least 10 years now!

[Tom Vaught]

Whew! Your luck is better than mine. Probably the first Group Picture of the California
parts on display. I have seen lots of installation pictures over the years.

Tom V.

[tekuhn]

Even 36 years ago, I was cognizant of the proper valve cover hump orientation, and how many magazine pictures showed them installed improperly. Since the breather tube hole is offset to one side, there is only one way the left valve cover can go and the tube length be correct.

Tom, I have never seen a setup like the one you have pictured with an all-rubber hose connected to a flat oil filler cap. The line in my picture is a formed steel tube, with a bead to limit its depth into the rubber grommet, and a rubber coupler at the other end to connect to the "T". The oil filler cap is a solid flat cap. The other 49-state cars had a solid rubber plug in the small hole and a breather-type oil cap.

Is that definitely what the '66 system looked like? Honestly, it looks like a '65 tri-power to me. The center carb has the long throttle arm and the water neck is pointing straight up. Here's a '66 unit I built back in 2008 showing the throttle arm and water neck curving to the left.