[russosborne]

take it easy when I have about $1300 in parts waiting on me. sigh.
Don't have much choice though. I just hate wasting time off from work.
the good news is I got a keyboard from my mil for Christmas, so I can spend some quality time with that.
Thanks,
Russ

[gto406]

Hi Russ,

Take care of yourself! Sorry to hear about your heart problems. I turn 47 tomorrow, and i am walking 3miles at least 3 times a week (started in August). I can't tell you how much better i feel and I have already dropped 7lbs.

When your back on your feet, get out for a stroll. Even if it is 100 ft, it gets your endorphins moving, which will help your depression (I suffer from depression too). Staying sedentary is not good!

I want to wish you a speedy recovery, a merry Christmas, and a healthy/happy 2013. Keep smiling! Things will improve next year! And walk as soon as your doctor clears you.

Cheers,
Brian.

[hpp]

Russ, Sorry to hear be careful and dont over do it.

[russosborne]

Thanks for the encouragement.
I'd be fine if I could get back to work. Hopefully my doctor's lazy staff will get my paperwork done so I can go back thursday.

On to bigger things and more problems. I decided to get the 350 onto the engine dolly my wife got me at Summit. Don't get that one unless you like having to make mods to something you just bought. The engine mounting brackets (at least on mine) are both about 1/2 inch to far to the rear. Looks like the jig used to weld them was wrong. So I have the engine just sitting on those, but I do have the bolts in the rear bellhousing holes.

Speaking of bolts, I tried to get the exhaust manifolds off of this engine since I have headers to put on. Two problems. First is that my heads do not have all the holes needed. For some reason I thought they did. Second problem is that I have about 5 rounded bolt heads now. Couldn't get any of the pass side manifold bolts off, and there is one left on the driver's side. I might have to pull the heads, and if I do that I might as well just find another engine. Only problem with that is I don't have the money for another engine budgeted into this mess. I definitely don't have the money to build up the 455 block I have.

Anybody have a running Pontiac engine they really want to get rid of for scrap price?

one step forward, one and a half backwards. that's my plan of attack.

Russ

[markjenks]

Those bolts for the heads can be a real bugger. Out of all of them on my 350, only 2 of them actually came out without snapping or rounding them out.

Cut the heads off if you can, and if they are broken in the head it might be time for a valvejob or at least a good cleanup at the rebuilder. Even if you have to leave the manifold on when you take them in, they will be able to deal with it better that you can.

As for the number of holes, most heads only had half as many as you think there should be (Which is a good thing because they can be such a bugger)

-Mark

Originally Posted by russosborne

Thanks for the encouragement.
I'd be fine if I could get back to work. Hopefully my doctor's lazy staff will get my paperwork done so I can go back thursday.

Speaking of bolts, I tried to get the exhaust manifolds off of this engine since I have headers to put on. Two problems. First is that my heads do not have all the holes needed. For some reason I thought they did. Second problem is that I have about 5 rounded bolt heads now. Couldn't get any of the pass side manifold bolts off, and there is one left on the driver's side. I might have to pull the heads, and if I do that I might as well just find another engine.
Russ

[mcshooter]

russ, mk is right cut the head of the bolts off with a cutoff wheel or grinder, remove the manifold and soak the remainder of the bolt and see if it will come out. if not either try a easy out or drill it out and retap the hole.. if you ever need another engine let me know as i have a friend who has a engine.. i dont know its condition and may need a rebuild. i think it is a 400

[russosborne]

Thanks, I do have a grinder, so maybe that will work.
Or I could just leave the stupid exhaust stock, but with my luck if I tried to do that there would be another problem come up with the engine.
Maybe I should just save my pennies and do a really basic stock rebuild on the 455. But considering all I have is the block,caps, and a set of 4X heads, even that wouldn't be cheap.

I don't know. Feeling too depressed right now to really think. Yes, I am back at work typing this. joy joy joy. Humbug. :-)

Thanks,
Russ

[mcshooter]

russ if the 350 is ok why not just us it as is for now, you can go to a other engine later or mod the 350// i keep trying to get mike to slow down but no luck// hang in there when the weather breaks we can move forward so just relax and think and good to hear you are well and back to work..

[russosborne]

Well, that is the plan if possible.
Two issues. First is the lack of full exhaust manifold bolt holes, I really want to use the headers I have. I think I have read about some adapters for this to work without having the heads reworked. Have to search that out.
Second is time. The 350 has been out of the car for a year and a half now. I hope but am not sure it is still ok. Don't know til I try it I suppose.
Thanks,
Russ

[mcshooter]

russ iam not familar with the bolt holes not being enough. but if the 350 was ok a year and half ago it should be ok. if i put a engine away for a while i spray a little wd40 in the plug holes,, my neighbor who has the 1936 ford and has a 283 chevy engine in it the engine came out of his 1976 picpup and probably sat for at least 20 years in his garage. he put it in the 1936 and only put in new plugs and points and it is running fine.. i tryed to talk him into putting in at least new bearings but he said it ran fine when he pulled it out and he was right.. i think it had at least 100k on it when he took it out.. so if the 350 was ok a year ago it should be ok..

[F ROCK]

my manifold bolts were stuck too...here's what I did:
I soaked with crc at both ends. I think crc is the best but use whatever.
I hammered, carefully, on the heads of the stuck bolts like a nail, straight down on the head, while applying pressure with a 6 pointed wrench.
shocked every one loose.

the adapters are from spotts performance, I think; but I think they only work on 1972 and later heads? not sure what you have.

[russosborne]

Thanks, that is my hope.
I found the adapters for the headers, but they won't work for my heads. I am going to have to get the manifolds off and see if the heads are drilled for all the bolts or not.
It's just always something.

[russosborne]

or, and this would be what I REALLY would like to do,
put the 4X heads on the 350. Nice LOW compression. And then put this http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=716084
on.
Russ

[Icefan71]

Russ, I'm in the same boat as you. I'm saving up some cash for a 400 build. For now I have a stock 350 7H1 heads. I have a Summit 2800 cam/lifters and a Q-jet waiting to go on it, but the wife and I have been sick for over a month. Feeling like crap. As for you heads, if you don't have end bolt holes, can't you drill them? I think with some heads you can drill them, some you can't. Not exactly sure which ones are which.

[russosborne]

I think these could be drilled, but not by me. That's the whole problem, I wasn't planning on putting any money into this engine that couldn't be used on the final engine I end up with. If I have to spend more than say gasket money on it then I might as well just do the 455 or buy something already running the way I want it.I need to do some investigative work before spending any more money either way. Don't have $1-2K for a rotating assembly for the 455, so I don't know what to do right now. I am pretty sure the 4X heads would not be a good idea on the 350, and I am not going to spend any money on the heads currently on it.

I don't have a clue about what cam is in this thing. The PO put a Summit HEI on it, as well as an Edelbrock intake and carb, but I don't know if he did the cam as well. Seeing as I have never had it on the road I have no clue how it drove/drives.

Need to think seriously about not getting this car running this year. I really don't want to do it half assed like I normally end up doing things. Not counting drivetrain I am probably a lot less than $1000 away from having all the parts I want. Drivetrain, who knows at this point.

Russ

[russosborne]

well, that was interesting.
I got home just after midnight(no o/t at work right now) and was feeling a tad destructive. So I went out in the garage and yanked the heads off of the 350. Yuck! There was gunk an inch thick in some places under the valve covers, mainly where the outer head bolts go. I couldn't even see them. both sides. I started digging becuase it seemed like there should have been some, and I found them. Oh, it was way too late to run the grinder to try to cut the exhaust bolt heads off. But I was tempted.

The piston side of the heads aren't horrible, but these are definitely well used. If I were to reuse this engine with these heads I would have to do a valve job. I'm leaning more and more to building the 455, and maybe get a cheap running engine(yeah, right. Like that is going to happen Russ) in the meantime. Honestly I suppose I should just concentrate on getting the rest of the car back together for now.

Oh, you know it is cold out when your fast orange hand cleaner is frozen solid. Hoping to get my garage door re-installed in a week or so, once the parts I ordered get here. that will help keep a bit of the cold out at least while I am working in there with the halogen lights blazing.

Russ

[russosborne]

I FINALLY got the last piece off of the frame. The passenger side front lower control arm. Yay me!
I had a very used (down to almost nothing) cutoff disc left on my grinder, decided to see if that would be able to get down far enough to cut the bolt the last little bit and it worked. Then I got most of what is left cleaned up and rust reformed, although I may have to do that again since it is like 35 out or something and not supposed to use the paint that cold. Going to try to get the frame into the garage maybe tomorrow, I am out of energy for the day I think. At least as far as standing goes, my legs have been the weakest part of me lately.

I still need to clean and paint the rear axle crap. I have to pull the axles also so I can install the scarebird disk brake brackets. I do have the engine hoist in the garage now, so I can hopefully get it on the sawhorses without dropping it on my foot again. Thinking of that, I may have enough energy to go back out and do that right now or at least in a little bit. I am getting excited about the thought of actually doing some assembly for a change.

Russ

[russosborne]

let's see if this works.
I made up a list of stuff I still need to do. I know I have skipped some stuff, but this is what I have at the moment.

Frame stuff I need for the Lemans to get on the road.
1.25 inch front sway bar mounts from UMI? ($100-price keeps going up)(already have the sway bar(used, $25 and some gas money))
Rear control arm reinforcing brackets, again UMI? ($125-price keeps going up)
Brake lines-do it yourself-get lines from autozone. ($30ish with ends)
Brake calipers for the scarebird kit-napa or pullapart ($100 or less if used)
mid 80's Chevy truck steering coupler-pullapart or craigslist ($25ish)
tires mounted on rims-Tom at work? ( case of beer or so)
Hose couplers from Lee's for power steering ($25)
Front and rear suspension-have all but above parts already, need to assemble
Radiator mount-have metal, need to do (free)
Once body is on, mount gas tank and then mount fuel pump and filter and do Gas lines-need 1/2 inch line and do it yourself-summit or jegs ($35ish with ends)

Parts I want to get for Lemans chassis but not absolutely necessary
Ford 9 inch rear end setup from Currie or other ($1500ish)(yes, not with a pumpkin, but I still have some Mustang connections, think I will be able to get a used 3.50-3.90ish fairly cheap)
Bigger rear tires. Something like P265-60 15s. Summit/NTSB/PepBoys? ($250-400?)(this is a must before serious driving)
Frame boxing kit ABC Performance ($175)

Engine stuff needed to get car on road
Finish putting together junkyard serpentine belt drive system-regardless of engine ($50-75 pullapart)
Finish intake work (water and exhaust crossovers removed already, needs cleaned up)
Find a decent running engine cheap (hahahaha)
Or do heads on current 350 and hope for the best(not the number one plan)

Engine stuff wanted
455 rotating assembly-various ($1000-2500 depending on luck finding used)
Heads done ($1000 maybe, not sure yet about pricing in 2013)
Block machining ($500-1000, again not sure of pricing)
Cam and lifters, want roller ($$$$$$$)
Misc. bearings,bolts, studs, etc ($500-1000)
Quadrajet carb instead of current Edelbrock
Port heads and intake

Body stuff needed
Tilt hinge setup from VFN ($200ish)
GTO grilles, turn signals, parking lights ($ who knows)
Windshield
Doors need stripped and checked, no idea of condition
Finish up a few welds (need mig gas for that)
Rebuild hinges
Hood-pin on fiberglass stock($300 ish if I can pick up, would prefer used)
Windshield stainless
Mount fiberglass trunk - plan is to mount onto the stock hinges(no torsion rods though) so it is easily useable.

Body stuff wanted
Paint ($$$$$$$$$$$$$)

Interior stuff needed
Install driver's seat (free, just need to get to that side of body
Custom dash that will hold 4 gauges-in process,need some abs plastic and a gas gauge as well as a tach. Not sure if stock speedo or aftermarket yet. there is an aftermarket dash panel for almost $300 that is where I got the idea. I don't have $300 for this part.
Finish rear metalwork and cover with carpet (black, of course)
Headliner-need to measure Lemans and go to pullapart and see what one piece newer ones will fit if any
Hand e-brake handle install-finally got one, need to figure out how to work it with console
Re-install steering column, brake and gas pedals, dash

Interior stuff wanted
8 point cage from summit racing ($200, I can pick it up at the Tallmadge store, no shipping)
Recaro seats (hey, why not?)

Electrical
Wire car-battery, solenoid, fuse box/power distribution box from Explorer all in trunk. Stereo amp under metal where rear seat bottom used to be. Stereo head who knows at this point, supposed to go into the shell of an old 8track player, but think I bought too small of one. Don't have stereo yet either.
Wire dash for lights for gauges(mechanical) and maybe stereo stuff
Overhead console for control switches (headlights, starter, others)
Wire to steering column for turn signals
Distribution block up on/near firewall for starter/headlights/fan/HEI etc
Wire brake and taillights
Wire horn, starter, headlights, HEI, fan, etc. Headlights need to have a disconnect for when front end is off car
Wire hidden kill switch
Wire speakers-they will be in the rear where the rear seat back used to be. going to have a box for regular speakers and subs, removable in case of racing.
Wire power antenna. Not sure yet what kind or where to mount.

Electrical wanted
Nothing really, this is one area for sure I am doing the way I want it to be.

[mikes2nd]

I think your list is less than mine...

I just sold my rear 4.11 9 inch center section that I bought but I am going with a 2011 Ford GT500 rear axle and diff.

[russosborne]

Yeah, but you are creating a 2013 GTO with all you are doing.

Russ