[Aguila1]

Hey guys,

I'm glad you're finding the videos informative. Part 16 should be up this week (I'm limited to how many megabytes I can upload). I think Wayne was being humorous about the engine maybe not starting, as he's humble and self-effacing. The proof will be in the performance and long-term durability. No word from Butler on scheduling our dyno session, yet...

The 700R4 video is in production and when the transmission gets done we're putting the motor back in, dyno or not.

The cam is a Crower 60919, similar to a Pontiac RAIV.

The static compression ratio was a hair over 13:1.

You can call Wayne at the shop for any questions for him.

PS: I'm not receiving email notifications to this subscription. ???

[Aguila1]

https://vimeo.com/72759359

Part 16: The assembly continues and concludes in this order by installing: the harmonic balancer, cometic gaskets, cylinder heads; checking valve and push rod clearance; measuring for push rod length; installing: lifters, push rods, roller rockers; adjusting valve train with poly locks; installing valley pan cover; checking intake manifold fit.

[HaloPlayer]

I had no idea how much work went into machining a block. I guess my question is this: Is the procedure we saw Wayne go through the 'standard' for machining a block or was some work done above and beyond a standard engine rebuild? I knew about line boring and boring the cylinders but I had never seen squaring the base before installing the main caps then checking the deck off the crank to make sure it was lined up as well.

If that is not the standard rebuild for a block, then which procedures are left out or done differently?

My 455 is in my garage on the stand right now mid teardown. There is virtually no lip at the top of the pistons and it is remarkably clean. I'm keeping my fingers crossed

[MescaBug]

Originally Posted by HaloPlayer

I had no idea how much work went into machining a block. I guess my question is this: Is the procedure we saw Wayne go through the 'standard' for machining a block or was some work done above and beyond a standard engine rebuild? I knew about line boring and boring the cylinders but I had never seen squaring the base before installing the main caps then checking the deck off the crank to make sure it was lined up as well.

If that is not the standard rebuild for a block, then which procedures are left out or done differently?

My 455 is in my garage on the stand right now mid teardown. There is virtually no lip at the top of the pistons and it is remarkably clean. I'm keeping my fingers crossed

This is standard stuff if you want to do it right. Some steps are not critical, or necessary. Depends on the block condition. You know more after checking the tolerances and clearances. Then you can decide what's to be done.

The 400 in my 72 GTO was bored to 0.030, align honed and that's it. We put it back together with new bearings and gaskets. Its a daily driver, I didnt care much. Been running strong for 4 years without any issues whatsoever.

Depends on your budget, and what you want to do with the motor.

[rexs73gto]

I just got done watching the whole thing & I think that Jim Butler has a different idea on adjusting the valves while it running, in fact I know he says not to do it that way because I've talked with him about it. I use to do it & have done it recently & I think it works , but Jim says it's a no no. How many of you guys do a final valve adj. with the engine running?? I have a valve cover thats cut out on the top just for the final adjustment of the valves just to get the most out of the valves & to get it as close to zero valve lash. What do you guys say.????

[Qball]

What is Butler's method for adjusting valves? I was taught to adjust valves with the engine running, as well. This is the first I've heard of anyone saying it's a no no.

Originally Posted by rexs73gto

I just got done watching the whole thing & I think that Jim Butler has a different idea on adjusting the valves while it running, in fact I know he says not to do it that way because I've talked with him about it. I use to do it & have done it recently & I think it works , but Jim says it's a no no. How many of you guys do a final valve adj. with the engine running?? I have a valve cover thats cut out on the top just for the final adjustment of the valves just to get the most out of the valves & to get it as close to zero valve lash. What do you guys say.????

[Old Tin Indian]

adjusting stamped steel rocker arms with the engine running (obviously w/hydraulic lifters) is perfectly acceptable. in fact it's the recommended method per several auto manufacturers.
roller rockers are a little different. by backing off the adjusting nut, the roller on the rocker arm starts banging against the valve stem. this could damage the needle bearings in that roller element and/or even damage the roller element itself along with the end of the valve stem.