[AdamIsAdam]

Originally Posted by West Coast GTO

In construction, these are called cribbing; very safe , stable and cheap( about $40 for 2x4's and nails). Also, allows you to get body panels aligned with proper gap.

I'm going to build these. How high did you guys make them?

I just secured a new garage and the ceiling is only 8' so a lift is not going to really leave me more than 33" so I may be forced to do this for underneath work instead.

[AdamIsAdam]

Interesting.... What do you guys think of these...

https://www.quickjack.com/#fullspecs

[TedRamAirII]

I think they are good for what they can do, but as far as lifting the car for body work, and body panel alignment, no different than regular jack stands. For body panel alignment, it really should be on the wheels. One more thing.....is it going to be high enough for you to get under the car to do anything?

[AdamIsAdam]

I would be using it for mechanical work, mostly light work. And I'd probably put either jack stands and/or those wood blocks under the car as backups.

If I was to leave it in the air for any amount of time, I'd want to use this QuickJack to raise the car and then set it down on the tires on those wood crates to avoid frame flex.

Since I have just shy of 8' ceilings, a 4 post lift will only give me a maximum of 33" clearance anyway. The QuickJack has extensions that net me about 30" so I'm about the same work height with less cost and more mobility.

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by AdamIsAdam

Interesting.... What do you guys think of these...

https://www.quickjack.com/#fullspecs

Wildly overpriced.

The apparatus under the car will make under-car work difficult. Jack stands are bad enough when trying to remove a transmission or install an exhaust system while rolling around on a creeper.

[mrrat1]

For extended time on stands I use the 4 points in the frame diagram but also use 2 stands under the front sway bar bushings. I've even used 2 more at the rear of the frame at times
I made wood blocks from 3 2x4's and 1/2 inch plywood top that go under the stands if I'm using them on asphalt.

[Greg Reid]

I support mine at the same place Steve does....the sway bar bushings if I want it off the suspension. If I want it on the suspension, I lift at the lower control arm spring pocket as someone mentioned before. Gets the wheels off the ground with much less jacking. In the rear, I lift where the swaybar crosses the differential.
After it's in the air, if I want it on the wheels I use a variety of very large hardwood blocks I've collected over the years. Functionally, about the same as the 2x4 cribs pictured in this thread. I always place stands where needed for security.

The quickjack looks handy but as mentioned..overpriced for me. All it would do for me is save me the time it takes to move my jack from one end of the car to another. That would be nice but not enough to pay over a thousand dollars. In the end, all I would do with it is raise the car, place my blocks and stands and then have to move it out of the way...just like my floor jack.
As mentioned, for a '68, raising behind the front wheels is scary to look at.

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

As mentioned, for a '68, raising behind the front wheels is scary to look at.

Originally Posted by Schurkey

There is NO place you can put four jack stands on the frame and not have frame sag...

...if the body bushings and hardware are rotted.

Remember that the frame on an "A" body is a flimsy piece of **** until it's securely bolted to the body. The body is far more rigid than the frame.

If jacking the vehicle is scary...you need to check the body mount bushings and hardware.

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by Schurkey

If jacking the vehicle is scary...you need to check the body mount bushings and hardware.

Body mounts and hardware are fine. I'm exaggerating a bit...it's not truly 'scary'... I just don't like seeing the bumper gap open when the weight of the engine is suspended out there. As someone mentioned, it probably occurs on all cars but the endura cars make it obvious.

[geeteeohguy]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

The little blocks of wood keeping the tires from rolling off the cribbing are rather important. I was welding underneath a 24' all steel three axle car carrier I was constructing, and in a dumb moment I grabbed the center axle to pull myself farther underneath. Carrier started rolling and just before it dropped off the blocks, it hit the tree behind it and stopped rolling. I had started to squirm out, but wouldn't have made it. If I had planted that tree a foot more away from the driveway, I wouldn't be here typing. I usually use jackstands for everything, but wanted the trailer to be sitting on its wheels so it would be sitting natural while I welded.

Another time I had my GTO lifted up to the top notches of the 6-ton 4 legged stands to get the auto trans out, and had given up for the night. They were positioned on the back axle and on the A-frames under the shocks. Next morning the Big Bear Earthquake hit and we had all sorts of stuff off the shelves and broken. I remembered the car and ran out there expecting it to be off the stands and against the garage wall, but the stands remained secure and the car was fine.

We just did Front A-frame bushings on a friend's '68 GTO. We had the jackstands at the frame boxes in the front since all the suspension was coming off. The Endura front bumper went from a really nice tight fit to having a 3/8" gap at the top where it meets the fenders. Harder to see the flexing on our earlier cars with the chrome bumpers, but it sure showed up on the '68.

Normally, a frame will sag a bit when lifted by the 4 hoisting locations on the frame torque box areas, but will return to dimension once the car is lowered back to the ground. I've been using a rack to service my GTO's for the past 35 years, placing the dogs at the 4 points shown in the posted chart. No issue at all with the frames or body panel fit on either car. One is a '65 GTO hardtop, the other,a '67 GTO convertible. You don't want to open the doors on the ragtop when it's hanging in the air, though!!!

[AdamIsAdam]

Check out these safe jack stands.

https://safejacks.com/collections/co...d-by-safe-jack

https://youtu.be/UoP9bt1C9Dc

I ordered QuickJack 7000 (I have a big jeep too), but I just noticed these and was curious about what others thought. Anyone use them?

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Originally Posted by AdamIsAdam

Interesting.... What do you guys think of these...

https://www.quickjack.com/#fullspecs

A lot of teams use these:
http://www.racecarlifts.com/DLMlift.html
at the track, in aluminum. They run them over often too. You'll never see me under a car supported by one of them.

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by AdamIsAdam

Check out these safe jack stands.

https://safejacks.com/collections/co...d-by-safe-jack

https://youtu.be/UoP9bt1C9Dc

I ordered QuickJack 7000 (I have a big jeep too), but I just noticed these and was curious about what others thought. Anyone use them?

That's a pretty good idea in that you actually use the top of the stand almost as a part of your floorjack...but it's not enough of a change to make me go out and buy one if I already have a couple of pairs of the traditional style stands.

Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD

A lot of teams use these:
http://www.racecarlifts.com/DLMlift.html
at the track, in aluminum. They run them over often too. You'll never see me under a car supported by one of them.

Frankly, I don't see how you could get under a car with one of those even if you wanted to. It appears to block all access except for wheel work. I guess you could get to the rear and the actual engine but looks like too much obstruction for me to spend that kind of coin.

[Tom Vaught]

Personally, I will stick with the wood platform stands I have and the fabricated stands that use the ACME all-thread screw rod for fine adjustments with a variety of vehicle heights. At some point if I had a lift I would build larger welded together stands basically like this design, (see below). The "Bolt thru the Hole" deal always seems to be in the wrong spot for me.

Tom V.

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

stands that use the ACME all-thread screw rod for fine adjustments with a variety of vehicle heights.

Tom V.

Now, that is a good idea. It aggravates me when I have to let the car down just a tad or jack it up just a tad to get my stands into a locking position at the height I want it.