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#1
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Very frustrated can I give up..
So I have been battling with this thig for about 3 days now finally got some tags and insurance to take it out and see how it does.This is the most coldblooded animal I have ever seen and for some reason I am getting backfire through the carb intermittently .
I have reset the choke for cold start but it didn't help stalls spits and pops until it's warmed up then idles fine. Laying into the throttle in second getting a pop back through the carb just can't seem to dial it in. Timing right now is 28 it will not run if I back it down that is with full advance at idle rpm at idle 1100 forget turning the ac on I have to get a fast idle solenoid edlebrock wants 144 bones no ac for now. cleaned and regap plugs running very rich . Adjusted carb to many times to count idle air Is as close as I can get it not rocket science. Petronix HEI Edlebrock 650 performer series carb Champion plugs performer intake Edlebrock d port heads mild isky cam 30 over Carb sat for 3 years but balances out fine no vacuum leaks . Any suggestions been a while since I did any hypo stuff . 1 more thing this thing is drinking gas 5 gals real quick just running in the shop. |
#2
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28 degrees initial timing? And it won't run with less timing??
Your timing chain may be one-tooth off. Did you degree the cam when it was installed?
__________________
'73 T/A (clone). Low budget stock headed 8.3:1 455, 222/242 116lsa .443/.435 cam. FAST Sportsman EFI, 315rwhp/385rwtq on 87 octane. 13.12 @103.2, 1.91 60'. '67 Firebird [sold], ; 11.27 @ 119.61, 7.167 @ 96.07, with UD 280/280 (108LSA/ 109 ICL)solid cam. [1.537, 7.233 @93.61, 11.46 @ 115.4 w/ old UD 288/296 108 hydraulic cam] Feb '05 HPP, home-ported "16" D-ports, dished pistons (pump gas only), 3.42 gears, 275/60 DR's, 750DP, T2, full exhaust My webpage http://lnlpd.com/home |
#3
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I would agree. A reading from a vacuum gauge would probably prove Lee's diagnosis.
Jon.
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"Good carburetion is fuelish hot air". "The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one given to you by your neighbor". If you truly believe that "one size fits all" try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes! Owner of The Carburetor Shop, LLC (of Missouri). Current caretaker of the remains of Stromberg Caburetor, and custodian of the existing Carter and Kingston carburetor drawings. |
#4
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Quote:
YES was 3 years ago but it was right on I pulled the valve cover to see if the cam was off both valves closed completely on comp stroke it runs to good at high rpm and through mid range my light is 35 yrs old snap on with a degree wheel on it going to borrow a friends see if mine is off it just runs like crap when its cold. |
#5
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I will run a gauge on it in the morning need to get more gas should be 18inches?
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#6
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Your aftermarket ignition needs full juice.
If you´re using the harness ment for the original points your new ignition system will NEVER work properly with the reduced voltage/current from the original harness. |
#7
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Yes, this. Verify voltage to the ignition system. Popping thru the carb is indicative of the timing being way off, or the fuel system being way too lean. Weak ignition could also be the cause. 28 degrees initial is way off the mark...it should be 6 degrees BTDC to about 12 degrees BTDC. I would verify the valve timing (timing chain) and verify that the distributor is clocked correctly, too. You should have a steady 16-21" vacuum at idle, and if it's anywhere near a stock cam, it should easily idle at 650 rpm. Back to basics here: verify all of the above.
__________________
Jeff |
The Following User Says Thank You to geeteeohguy For This Useful Post: | ||
#8
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Quote:
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#9
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Engine all carboned up .
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#10
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Any chance you are running 3 year old gas? This is what it sounds like to me. Had the same problem with old blue. Added fresh gas, and it was if I had done a complete tuneup.
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#11
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Sounds like there's water in the gas. Dry gas, and as Andre says... fresh gas will help too. And change your gas filters too.
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Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
#12
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Ok, ignition fine then.
Checked float level? Dirt in inlet valves? |
#13
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Gas is fine new tank new gas 15 gals prem went back to basics kiss #1 up comp cap #1 rotor facing #1 all good 12 volts at dist constant new timing light tried to start same thing had to advance the hell out of it to light it off got the light on it and backed timing down to 12 was a pig not happy at all hooked vacuum gauge up 8 inches of vacuum at idle after warm up 10 inches higher rpm pop and spit when throttled up so I guess I will be pulling the frt cover again has to be off man I checked that cam silly don't know what else it could be no vacuum leaks what do you guys think.Bummed out..
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#14
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Plug wire crossed / arching ?
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#15
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I didn't see any displacement listed in scanning this but a 650 edelbrock is not enough for some 350 and most all 400s and up.
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The More People I Meet, The More I Love My Dogs! |
#16
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Edelbrock is the key word here. I have a 650 Carter AFB Competition Series on my 68 400hp 400 and it runs just fine.
__________________
Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
#17
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400 30 over carb may not be big enough but it should not cause it to backfire also 8 inches of vacuum timing better possibility.
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#18
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__________________
GREG'S GOATS: 1970 GTO Judge RA-III, 4-SPD & A/C. Power Windows, Power Seat, Power Brakes, Steering, AM/FM, 8-Track, Formula Wheel, Rallye Gauges, Remote Mirror, Numbers Matching. Assembled at Pontiac, MI Plant 5/26/1970. 1968 GTO 461 CI, RA-III heads, Hotchkis springs, UMI suspension, Bilstein shocks, 12-bolt 3.73's. 1966 GTO Ragtop 4-Speed, AM/FM, Original driveline. |
#19
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on top of this I got really sick blah..
18436572 counterclkwise all good .
So I went trough everything again #1 comp stroke tdc #1 cap rotor facing #1 yes 12 v source at dist yes 15 gals fresh prem gas new tank new lines new filter new carb. new plugs Tried to start this morning with everything set to fact position would not fire off. Advanced dist to get it to start. Eng started ck timing.2 diff lights will run at 40 degrees advanced vacuum is at 12inches.hot 16 on cold idle cam I can achieve 16 if I idle it up. back timing down to where it wants to die 12 degrees lowest I can get it to run. vacuum is at 8 runs like crap. it runs really good with the timing advanced so when advancing the dist this puts #1 cyl firing ahead of where it should if I redrop the dist 1 tooth forward will this change the timing marks ? to where they should be or is the cam off I hate to tar it down but it seems like my only option. |
#20
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Might be off base, but I didn't see that you checked the damper for not having slipped on the rubber?
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