[tjs72lemans]

I need to drop my pan to replace my kick down solenoid. I have about 1000 miles on newly stock rebuilt tranny. I figure it's too hard to capture my new fluid to reuse. I am leaning toward a new after market pan with a drain plug for future ease. I also considered a pan with a temp gauge sending unit. Would I be better off using my old pan and welding two bungs? I haven't seen any pans for both options. I liked the old B&M pan I put on my Camaro years ago, but I know welding aluminum can be tricky and may mess up the nice look from heating it for a temp sender bung. Suggestions?

[SRR]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/26570623687...b8c685b156f84c

If you car is lowered never mind.

[Schurkey]

Drop a cooler tube at the radiator, generally the lower one. Direct the fluid into a CLEAN drain pan. Start engine, let the trans pump nearly-empty the pan for you.

Trans pans with "drain plugs" are a total waste of money.

Deep pans need to be well-protected from debris on the roadway, potentially including speed bumps.

[Half-Inch Stud]

Can the Temp sensor fit the drain plug bung?

[Schurkey]

I'd expect the temp sensor to be pipe-thread. But perhaps there's a version with straight thread of the correct thread diameter and pitch.

And if the drain plug bung is on the bottom of the pan instead of the side...even more road-hazard clearance problems.

[tjs72lemans]

I didn't realize running trans line into container wouldn't harm tranny when started and run to pump dry. I see SSR listed a pan with both bungs. A bit spendy, but a nice opption given it also has cooling pipes.

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by tjs72lemans

I didn't realize running trans line into container wouldn't harm tranny when started and run to pump dry.

The fluid coming back from the trans cooler(s) is used to lubricate the transmission geartrain and shafts.

If the vehicle isn't moving...the geartrain doesn't need lube.

And the pump isn't run "dry", you'd shut off the engine when the fluid starts to sputter from the loose cooler tube. There's still enough residual fluid in the pump to supply lube to the moving parts.

That leaves the oil pan "mostly" empty, but not completely. You'd "save" most of the fluid and at the same time, reduce spillage and mess when the pan comes loose from the case.

[tjs72lemans]

Thanks, I didn't know it was safe to run the fluid out like that. I assume the torque convertor doesn't drain due to not spinning then?

[SRR]

Originally Posted by tjs72lemans

Thanks, I didn't know it was safe to run the fluid out like that. I assume the torque convertor doesn't drain due to not spinning then?

Anytime the engine is running the torque converter is spinning.
I put those Derale pans on my 70 Skylark and my 94 C3500. I like the idea of a drain plug and an option for a trans temperature gauge. They are USA made and are a heavy gage, made very well.

[Tim Corcoran]

Summit sells a nice aluminum pan for the TH-400 at a great price too comes with a nice gasket and a drain plug. You don't need to weld a bung in for a temp sensor you can just drill and tap it for the sensor. Any professional welder can weld in a bung for you if you really want to weld it in but why would you.

[tjs72lemans]

Thanks Tim. I assume the aluminum is thick enough for a couple threads then? Unlike stock sheet metal pans.