[1966geeto]

Originally Posted by Old Goat 67

Might be off base, but I didn't see that you checked the damper for not having slipped on the rubber?

Worth a shot before I tear it down what should vacuum be at idle ?

[1966geeto]

Originally Posted by Old Goat 67

Might be off base, but I didn't see that you checked the damper for not having slipped on the rubber?

after thinking about it the damper lines up with 0tdc #1 comp so I would think it's ok.

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by Old Goat 67

Might be off base, but I didn't see that you checked the damper for not having slipped on the rubber?

Just what I was going to mention Charles. I was wondering how you verified #1 was at TDC. Actually checked for compression or looked at the timing mark?

[1966geeto]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

Just what I was going to mention Charles. I was wondering how you verified #1 was at TDC. Actually checked for compression or looked at the timing mark?

Both #1 on comp stroke used a piston stopper to verify tdc looked at damper and cover with identifying white paint marks damper line is at 0 also pulled the valve cover and verified cam is in overlap.

After researching my cam I found out that it will only pull max 10 inches of vacuum at idle so I know the chin is correct I get 22 inches at midrange 2800rpms my main issue is that I have to put so much timing into it to make it run decent as I mentioned my light has a degree wheel on it so by setting the timing to where it runs decent the light reads 35 degrees adv disconnected if I run it there is no backfire no stumble no detonation I just think this is way to much timing but it's been a long time since I have done any performance applications.
Cam specs
231/240 470/470 113.5degrees 112 degrees 10inches vacuum at idle.I degreed it when installed and it was right there
Going to talk to a local eng builder see what he prescribes..

[Kenth]

I your fisrts post you mention you have a mild Isky cam.
Now you describe a cam with RAIV specs?

A RAIV-style cam needs at least 15° initial in a 400 or smaller engine and a properly adjusted idle circuit in carb to run decent.
The E-clone AFB is NOT up to that task.

[geeteeohguy]

X2 on a cam that will only pull 10"hg needing a bunch if timing. Probably not the best choice for this application.

[Region Warrior]

And the "initial" is Before Top Dead Center. Not at Top Dead Center.

[1966geeto]

Originally Posted by Kenth

I your fisrts post you mention you have a mild Isky cam.
Now you describe a cam with RAIV specs?

A RAIV-style cam needs at least 15° initial in a 400 or smaller engine and a properly adjusted idle circuit in carb to run decent.
The E-clone AFB is NOT up to that task.

When I purchased the eng that is what I was told was in it after doing some research I was able to track down the shop that built the engine in Texas I was also told the pistons were 30 over stock apparently they are not the kid I bought the car from in Georgia bought it in Texas and had it shipped to him that's what he had listed and told me was in the engine so it's a surprise to me to.

[1966geeto]

Well I gotta admit when I'm wrong I'm wrong when I wrote down the info from a friend on #1 position he told me on an HEI it was just before the cap screw so I had wires installed and dropped dist in the wrong position I did not clarify which way was in front towards the eng or towards the firewall turns out it is in front of the screw towards the firewall had the wife help me reset the dist and moved the wires 1 back started first crank idled superbly and best of all timing is at 15 degrees carb balanced out fine 12 inches vacuum at idle took it on a maiden voyage wow what more can I say sweet.
Thanks to all who chimed in remember KISS..

[Greg Reid]

Congrats!...Just for future reference, the orientation of the distributor cap is always going to be dictated by where the rotor is pointing when the desired piston is at TDC with both valves closed....never by any screw, mark or anything else. You could actually put it on in any position you like, as long as the rotor is pointing to the spark plug wire that will be next to fire.

[Ron Landis]

check the vacuum advance?

[hottrodd]

Swap out the carb, I was having the same issue last spring, I installed a edelbrock carb to break in my newly rebuilt 400, I "thought" by using a new carb, it would be one less thing to worry about a first start up, could not get it to run , checked everything, started thinking I was going crazy. I finally installed my original quad( I had not rebuilt yet), turn key, fired up perfect, broke the motor in, I have since put 6,000 miles on it.
So if u have, can borrow, etc ... try a different carb,
Also I'm running 744 cam, my initial is 16 degrees, total 34, no vac advance.
Having 40 initial timing u r going to have ur rods knocking!!!

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by hottrodd

Swap out the carb, I was having the same issue last spring, I installed a edelbrock carb to break in my newly rebuilt 400, I "thought" by using a new carb, it would be one less thing to worry about a first start up, could not get it to run , checked everything, started thinking I was going crazy. I finally installed my original quad( I had not rebuilt yet), turn key, fired up perfect, broke the motor in, I have since put 6,000 miles on it.
So if u have, can borrow, etc ... try a different carb,
Also I'm running 744 cam, my initial is 16 degrees, total 34, no vac advance.
Having 40 initial timing u r going to have ur rods knocking!!!

Please see post #29...