[Johnny406]

Have any of you gentlemen look at the Nitemare Performance pan?

http://nitemareperformance.com/prices2.html

[reacp911]

Originally Posted by Johnny406

Have any of you gentlemen look at the Nitemare Performance pan?

http://nitemareperformance.com/prices2.html

Looks different. I'm thinking it's more for drag racing?

[reacp911]

Originally Posted by Skip Fix

When you do the pan be sure with your tray you can get it over the pickup as you install it I know some of mine has taken some giggling to get tray over pickup and them not mess up the gasket!

I remember back in the day, I could remove the stock pan with the engine in the car. This does not seem to work with the canton pan, so I'll have to remove the motor, so putting the pan back will be easy. Because I have to use RTV with the crank scrapers, I use a couple of threaded rods to align the pan so as not to smear the goop.

I just found the following pic on this site somewhere that shows the 455SD pickup, which is remarkably similar to the 427 BBC pickup I'm planning to use. I calculated that the bottom of this is 1/2 inch from the bottom of the stock pan, compared to the 11/16 the garden variety pickup is. I had hoped to run even closer, 1/4 inch. Comments?

[Skip Fix]

I found a Milodon pan the same depth as my deepened Canton and use the pick up for it.

[reacp911]

Originally Posted by Skip Fix

I found a Milodon pan the same depth as my deepened Canton and use the pick up for it.

I've attached a sketch of the BBC pickup. It has a "salami" sliced tube end to increase the entrance area and to bring the tube end closer to the bottom of the pan.

Does the milodon have this?

BTW, I bought my TA new, and without the bird

[Skip Fix]

No it looks like a Canton rectangular pickup.

[reacp911]

this one? it looks like it could have a "salami" cut

[reacp911]

I've done most of the fabrication as per the photo.

This was not the best project to learn how to make leak proof welds in sheet metal. There were literally dozens of pinholes leaks. I've now got a pan that looks a bit like "just rolled in" on youtube, but there are no leaks. I may try to use some body solder to improve the esthetics

Like many things I've done in my life, it would work better doing it the second time

[Joe-Touring]

I’m no welder, but that seems like a tough job. Did you end up using the factory pan as a donor?

Was it a used pan? If so, how did you go about cleaning all the oil off?

It’s a ways off till my car is ready, but I’m hoping to get out on the road course myself. I picked up a Canton road race pan to use, it’s a bit disheartening to see that it might not be enough to keep my engine happy. My plans are to make a jack of all trades street car, balanced, but with an emphasis on handling. Main thing is I don’t wanna spin a bearing on a long sweeper

On a similar note, I decided to drop the coin on a Luhn Performance oil pump. They fab their own pickups, seem like a much better design than stock, from a flow perspective. Figured you might wanna check em out if your pickup doesn’t end up how you want it.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by reacp911

I've done most of the fabrication as per the photo.

This was not the best project to learn how to make leak proof welds in sheet metal. There were literally dozens of pinholes leaks. I've now got a pan that looks a bit like "just rolled in" on youtube, but there are no leaks. I may try to use some body solder to improve the esthetics

Like many things I've done in my life, it would work better doing it the second time

Don't worry about how those welds look. Learning on thin metal is not easy to say the least. As long as it does not leak you are good to go. Besides, you can buy a new Milodon pan with better looking welds, that leak.
Defiantly do not put any solder on it. If you do, you can never weld that spot again with steel.

[reacp911]

Originally Posted by Joe-Touring

I’m no welder, but that seems like a tough job. Did you end up using the factory pan as a donor?

.

It was the pan original to the car. The canton is still in the car as I have not pulled the motor. It has been out of the car for 10 years. I cleaned it then

My welding has improved substantially during this operation. If I were to do it again, I would do things differently. I can now lay a beautiful bead.

The part of the job I thought would be hard, ie, fitting the 1" strip was really easy.

The canton pan is trash. It's not deep enough, and does not hinder oil migration in the pan. Anyone can PM me with your number, and I will provide more details and rational and share what I learned welding

I'm now just about to fill the pan with red ATF and leave it to see if there are leaks. I was using water

yeah, soldering is likely a bad idea

Here is how the baffles are laid out

[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by reacp911

It was the pan original to the car. The canton is still in the car as I have not pulled the motor. It has been out of the car for 10 years. I cleaned it then

My welding has improved substantially during this operation. If I were to do it again, I would do things differently. I can now lay a beautiful bead.

The part of the job I thought would be hard, ie, fitting the 1" strip was really easy.

The canton pan is trash. It's not deep enough, and does not hinder oil migration in the pan. Anyone can PM me with your number, and I will provide more details and rational and share what I learned welding

I'm now just about to fill the pan with red ATF and leave it to see if there are leaks. I was using water

yeah, soldering is likely a bad idea

Here is how the baffles are laid out

When testing a weld for liquid leaking, and porosity of welds, water will weep through a weld more quickly than any oil will. If it's watertight, you're good. I've done a good many sheet metal containers, and oil pan modifications over the years, and water is what I use to test the weld areas. Using a oil to test a weld area will contaminate the metal in the case you need to re-weld the area in question, water will just turn to steam when reheated, instead of carbon, which contaminates the weld.

I actually prefer welding sheet metal with an oxy-acetylene torch, over MIG welding to get a fluid tight weld that is aesthetically pleasing to the eye, but of course you have another process to learn from scratch if you're only accustomed to MIG welding at this point. Although I've never TIG welded, that process is closest to oxy-acetylene welding, because both use a heat source, and filler rod to close the gaps of the joined metals together.

If it were me, at this point I'd use the sudden stops with water in the pan, in the bed of a pickup to prove your theory, and execution of your modifications to keep oil around the pickup. It's a heckuva lot easier than testing it in car, then pulling it back out if it doesn't work as planned, and cheaper too. I'd rather have done the backyard field test under my belt before doing the whole install in chassis. Just a suggestion, you do what you feel will work in your situation.

[reacp911]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

. Although I've never TIG welded, that process is closest to oxy-acetylene welding, because both use a heat source, and filler rod to close the gaps of the joined metals together.

If it were me, at this point I'd use the sudden stops with water in the pan, in the bed of a pickup to prove your theory, and execution of your modifications to keep oil around the pickup. I

my MIG welder also does lift TIG, but this process seems to generate a lot more heat, and thus more warpage.

I have a theory that the biggest problem with oiling systems is to get the oil back to the pickup. The amount of oil near the pickup even with baffles is very little. Unfortunately, baptism of fire is the only way to test.

Speaking of testing, I tested the pickup by sucking water with my wet-dry and comparing different designs