[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by 1050goat

AmsOil in everything...street, race, trans, differential. Proven performance.

X 2. EVERY lubricant we used in turbine engines was synthetic.

[GTOLou]

I'd love to hear a few (possible) wive's tales.

-conventional is less likely to leak (rear main, etc.) than synthetic.
-older engines/more miles, do better with conventional.
-conventional is better for break in.

[David Jones]

GTO? 15w-40 Delo.

Syn in everything else.

[jonmachota78]

Originally Posted by GTOLou

I'd love to hear a few (possible) wive's tales.

-conventional is less likely to leak (rear main, etc.) than synthetic.
-older engines/more miles, do better with conventional.
-conventional is better for break in.

Conventional oil promotes lifter spin on flat cams?

[Hillard]

Originally Posted by i82much

I don't know if this is the right answer, but I guess I've always kind of looked at things the other way with an old car with a carb. I figure unless your engine is tuned perfectly chances are you have unspent fuel or combustion byproducts polluting your oil, so why not use a conventional oil and change every 1500 miles or so?

I firmly believe that synthetic with 10k-15k miles on it will still protect your engine better than conventional oil when new. I think it's less affected by "by-products". Besides, the by-products should be very minimal unless the engine is just wore out. Read the link posted earlier for "Bob is the oil guy.com". Some good info in there. But there will always be people that just can't get away from their beloved dino oil.

I should add that I used to always break in a motor on Valvoline VR-1, run it a thousand miles or so, then switch to synthetic. I believed the rings would seat better. But now AmsOil has come out with a SAE30 break-in oil. So that's what I use now.

[Formula8]

Originally Posted by screamingchief

Valvoline VR-1 conventional here.

Bret P.

X 2

[jonmachota78]

Originally Posted by jonmachota78

Conventional oil promotes lifter spin on flat cams?

? ^^^^ ? ^^^^ ?

[Sirrotica]

Pennzoil Platinum synthetic 10-30W in all my cars, Shell Rotella 15-40W in my diesel truck, but more importantly the Frantz bypass filter to keep it clean and extend the life of any oil you use. There is no spin on full flow filter that will remove the sub 30 micron particulate that spin on filters let continue to circulate through the engine to cause engine wear and the formation of acids and sludge which further degrade the oil and cause even more wear. No matter which oil you use the filter is the most important part of longevity for the oil as well as the engine.

The other oil thread on PY that oils were tested by an independent lab, http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...ht=oil+testing Pennzoil synthetic Ultra came out on top of all the oils tested. When I started using the Platinum from Pennzoil it was the top of the line, since then they have come out with the Ultra which is even better in testing. Next time I change oil I believe I'll upgrade to the Ultra. When I started using the Platinum oil it was the top of the line, since then Pennzoil has debuted the Ultra it is a step above the Platinum.

The Brad Penn, Royal Purple, Mobil one, and Valvoline oils were not very high on the list and they are highly regarded by the members here on PY. By my own engine failures I would be inclined to believe the test results and as I have determined Pennzoil makes an outstanding product and always has. I switched to it in 1977 after oil related failures in my oval track race engines, solved the oil related problems as soon as I switched.

[FrankieT/A]

Only Pennsylvania grade crude oil for me. Our engines where not designed around synthetic. I'll use pennzoil as my first choice and valvoline as my second. I'm no chemist, but from what I understand the molecules of conventional are just random and synthetic are in chains. When a molecule breaks down in conventional it is suspended along with other contaminants, when a molecule breaks down in synthetic it comes apart like a zipper. I do use rislone zinc additive though with every oil change. I run an 80lb. pump and straight 30wt oil to keep oil pressure in the normal range.

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by FrankieT/A

Only Pennsylvania grade crude oil for me. Our engines where not designed around synthetic. I'll use pennzoil as my first choice and valvoline as my second. I'm no chemist, but from what I understand the molecules of conventional are just random and synthetic are in chains. When a molecule breaks down in conventional it is suspended along with other contaminants, when a molecule breaks down in synthetic it comes apart like a zipper. I do use rislone zinc additive though with every oil change. I run an 80lb. pump and straight 30wt oil to keep oil pressure in the normal range.

There is nothing in the design of an engine that makes an engine like ours better suited for conventional oil. I provided a link that has a wealth of information and there are many other websites that are much, much more technical that prove to me and many others that synthetic oils are much better performers than conventional oils. This does not mean in any way that conventional oils aren't up to the task of lubrication but that they are not as good at it as synthetics.

"Oil molecules do not break down, just the additives."

Again, read this......http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-103/

Karl

[AG]

Originally Posted by FrankieT/A

Only Pennsylvania grade crude oil for me. Our engines where not designed around synthetic. I'll use pennzoil as my first choice and valvoline as my second. I'm no chemist, but from what I understand the molecules of conventional are just random and synthetic are in chains. When a molecule breaks down in conventional it is suspended along with other contaminants, when a molecule breaks down in synthetic it comes apart like a zipper. I do use rislone zinc additive though with every oil change. I run an 80lb. pump and straight 30wt oil to keep oil pressure in the normal range.

Synthetic oil is made from chemically modified fractions from crude or synthetic esters and other stuff. They use no detergents. Regular oil is made from crude and has chain lengths of 18-34 carbons with various side chains and additives. There is no zipper effect when syn oil breaks down, the degradation pathways are the same for both oils except full syn doesn't degrade as much as conventional oil especially since it does not produce an acidic environment liks conventional. Full syn has been proven better than conventional time and time again and has much better shear strength. I only run full syn in all my cars. I've seen a difference in engine wear in the 3 new vehicles I have bought in the last 18 years. The first I used conventional every 3000 miles and the other two full syn. At over 130,000 miles the full syn cars still do not blow any smoke on start-up but the car with conventional oil started to puff at 90,000 miles.

[indetrucks]

Has there ever been a thread or claim of a failure due to bad oil or poor oil product?

Seems it's all preference but in the end, it all does the same thing. No?

[David Jones]

Originally Posted by indetrucks

Seems it's all preference but in the end, it all does the same thing. No?

Well, no. I don't believe many folks run or recommend 10,000 mile oil change intervals using dino oil. Synthetics can safely do that.

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by indetrucks

Has there ever been a thread or claim of a failure due to bad oil or poor oil product?

Seems it's all preference but in the end, it all does the same thing. No?

To a point yes. If quality oil and filters in the correct range are used and maintained properly in a correctly built engine, the job of lubrication will be done satisfactorily. But there are varying degrees of performance in many of the parts and chemicals we use. Some of us are looking to squeeze every bit of performance out of our engines. And in this case the reduction in friction from the synthetic oil plays directly into my use of light weight parts in the rotating assembly to reduce parasitic and frictional losses in search of the best possible fuel mileage with the power being made.

Karl

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

Pennzoil Platinum synthetic 10-30W in all my cars, Shell Rotella 15-40W in my diesel truck, but more importantly the Frantz bypass filter to keep it clean and extend the life of any oil you use. There is no spin on full flow filter that will remove the sub 30 micron particulate that spin on filters let continue to circulate through the engine to cause engine wear and the formation of acids and sludge which further degrade the oil and cause even more wear. No matter which oil you use the filter is the most important part of longevity for the oil as well as the engine.

The other oil thread on PY that oils were tested by an independent lab, http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...ht=oil+testing Pennzoil synthetic Ultra came out on top of all the oils tested. When I started using the Platinum from Pennzoil it was the top of the line, since then they have come out with the Ultra which is even better in testing. Next time I change oil I believe I'll upgrade to the Ultra. When I started using the Platinum oil it was the top of the line, since then Pennzoil has debuted the Ultra it is a step above the Platinum.

The Brad Penn, Royal Purple, Mobil one, and Valvoline oils were not very high on the list and they are highly regarded by the members here on PY. By my own engine failures I would be inclined to believe the test results and as I have determined Pennzoil makes an outstanding product and always has. I switched to it in 1977 after oil related failures in my oval track race engines, solved the oil related problems as soon as I switched.

Looks like I' ll be staying with Amsoil after reading that, Brad.

[Hillard]

For my 62 wagon build I'll be using AmsOil SAE30 break-in oil, then switch to AmsOil 10w-30. And I'm seriously thinking about adding this...
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...l-bypass-unit/

[Hillard]

Originally Posted by FrankieT/A

Our engines where not designed around synthetic. I'll use pennzoil as my first choice and valvoline as my second. I'm no chemist, but from what I understand the molecules of conventional are just random and synthetic are in chains. When a molecule breaks down in conventional it is suspended along with other contaminants, when a molecule breaks down in synthetic it comes apart like a zipper.

But synthetic was designed around our engines, crude oil was something we just found in the ground. And synthetic does not break down. Yes, conventional oil can get the job done as it has for years, synthetic just does it better.

[68 Firebird]

Brad Penn 10W40 just to throw my 2 cents in. Once I switched to it I had no
lifter noise at startup even after 2 weeks of no use. Used to tap for a few seconds
if car was not started for a few days, which is most of the time.

Gerry C

[hurryinhoosier62]

The best example I can give is my own experience with conventional vs. synthetic. My 2003 Chevy Silverado had conventional motor oil (5W-30 Pennzoil) for the first two years I owned it. The oil/ oil filter were changed every 5,000 miles. At the 4,000 mile mark, the oil pressure would start to decrease. Not a lot, only about 5psi, but it was throughout the entire RPM range. Since I started using Amsoil, the oil pressure is rock steady throughout the RPM range (30psi at idle, 50psi at cruise). My oil useage has declined and the engine actually runs cooler. I have no problem running the oil for 10,000 miles (oil filter changed at 5,000 miles).

[old66tiger]

I ran 20-50 VR1 for the first two seasons in this engine and the oil temps were consistently over 230. I switched to 10-40 Royal Purple after reading the testing that was done at bobstheoilguy website. My engine builds oil pressure much faster at cold startup, and the oil temps are about 30 degrees cooler. No noticeable leaks except for the tiny one at the back of the engine which was there with the running of the conventional oil too. With the exception of my Mercruiser I/O I run syn in everything now. If I could find an Amzoil dealer close to me that doesn't want to breed me for the cost of a quart of oil, I would run the Amzoil stuff.