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#1
09-27-2019, 10:18 AM
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Permatex "right stuff" question
Like many of you I have been using the right stuff on some of those hard to seal areas & in certain applications it is an amazing product. The only thing I have never been a fan of is how quick it sets up. As a hobbiest I don't need it to seal in 1 minute & when using a small carefully applied amount, I would rather have more time. I see they have a tube of 90 minute right stuff. Has anybody used it? is it as good and strong as the pressurized 1 minute product? Just curious if anyone knows.
I know there is more time than 1 minute to work with, but it does get thick and start to skin after 5-10 minutes. Is the 90 minute stuff just as good?  
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 68 GTO 4-spd Convertible 78 S/E Trans am L78, WS6 Auto 78 S/E Trans am W72, WS6 Auto 79 10th aniv W72 Trans am 80 Indy pace car Trans am 89 Trans am GTA Last edited by 68ragtop; 09-27-2019 at 10:23 AM. |
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#2
09-27-2019, 10:26 AM
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That is all we use, great stuff.
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#3
09-27-2019, 12:17 PM
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Is that essentially the same product as the "Right Stuff" expanding foam insulation?
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#4
09-27-2019, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
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#5
09-27-2019, 12:34 PM
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Ummm, no.
It's like super-silicone. DO NOT use for valve covers or oil pans or really anything you want to be able to remove later. It's a fantastic product in the right application - tough as heck and pretty much permanent. I don't know about the differences between the 1 minute and 90 minute product. Have never used the 90 minute stuff.
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---------------------------- '72 Formula 400 Lucerne Blue, Blue Deluxe interior - My first car! '73 Firebird 350/4-speed Black on Black, mix & match. |
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#6
09-27-2019, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
https://www.greatstuff.dupont.com/?u...SAAEgLE6fD_BwE Quote:
In the right application, the stuff is beyond wonderful. Last edited by Schurkey; 09-27-2019 at 03:17 PM. |
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#7
09-27-2019, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
In the right application, the stuff is beyond wonderful.[/QUOTE] As has been noted it's polyurethane, and if you have ever tried to remove a polyurethane sealed windshield you would be using a product similar for gasket sealing. Really tough stuff, and a bear to remove or cut out. It seals perfectly, but when it comes time to remove it, it needs to be cut, or buffed off with a wire brush on a electric motor. There are places where it excels, and places where it's overkill.
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Brad Yost 1973 T/A (SOLD) 2005 GTO 1984 Grand Prix 100% Pontiacs in my driveway!!! What's in your driveway? If you don't take some of the RACETRACK home with you, Ya got cheated    
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#8
09-27-2019, 02:56 PM
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So, while I am laughing & reading,
can any of you guys tell me if the 90 minute stuff in the tube is the same as the 1 minute in the pressurized can? The pressurized can is the only type I have used. Years ago I had built a SBC & had the block zero decked. Of coarse after machining the intake to fit the heads again there was no room for the rubber gasket between the block & intake. So I used a bead of the right stuff, never leaked a single drop. However, when I had to remove the intake again, I literally had to saw it out of the space in front so I could lift it back out. Its got to be the closest thing to a 2K type rubber.
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68 GTO 4-spd Convertible 78 S/E Trans am L78, WS6 Auto 78 S/E Trans am W72, WS6 Auto 79 10th aniv W72 Trans am 80 Indy pace car Trans am 89 Trans am GTA |
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#9
09-27-2019, 03:21 PM
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I'm a fan of the pressurized can Right Stuff.
I had a valley pan oil leak right at the distributor some years ago. Oil puddled at the base of the dist. Jeez.....take off all that crap and fix it....or.....put a little Right Stuff on my finger and rub it under the lip of the pan. Job done.
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 frittering and wasting the hours in an off hand way.... 1969 GTO, 455ci, 230/236 Pontiac Dude's "Butcher Special" Comp hyd roller cam with Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, Q-jet, Edelbrock P4B-QJ, Doug's headers, ported 6X-8 (97cc) heads, TKO600, 3.73 geared Eaton Tru-Trac 8.5", hydroboost, rear disc brakes......and my greatest mechanical feat....a new heater core. 
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#10
09-27-2019, 04:53 PM
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Do NOT use it on a 9 inch 3rd member. It took a 3/4 ton come along to get mine off.
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#11
09-27-2019, 07:35 PM
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LOL
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#12
09-27-2019, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
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Some Fear, Because if you've never been afraid- just a little. You're obviously not going as fast as you could be. |
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#13
09-27-2019, 07:46 PM
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I use it on valve covers..rightstuff the cork gasket to the valve covers..gently tighten the bolts..no leaks and valve covers can come off and back on many times.
It is grippy..I wouldn't want to see a stock valley pan or a thin sheetmetal valley pan attempt to come off with it if just sealing with it. They need a high temp version of it!
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 466 Mike Voycey shortblock, 310cfm SD KRE heads, SD "OF 2.0 cam", torker 2 373 gears 3200 Continental Convertor best et 10.679/127.5/1.533 60ft 308 gears best et 10.76/125.64/1.5471 |
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#14
09-27-2019, 08:07 PM
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I dont use the stuff much at all... I use permitex aviation sealer... brush it on and let the gasket do the sealing... that's what the gaskets for...
I hate to see stuff squeezed out of every sealing surface on an engine... looks horrible. Last edited by Scott Roberts; 09-27-2019 at 08:32 PM. |
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#15
09-27-2019, 08:11 PM
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I dont use it anymore,switched to Hylomar.Tom
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#16
09-28-2019, 05:05 AM
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Quote:
I have a bit of a problem with Hylomar ... used on on an air cooled motorcycle race engine once ... on a copper Cometic head gasket. Perhaps I used a tad too much ... but the stuff was so indestructible that it got into the cylinder and when I tore down the engine I found some of it stuck in the ring lands. It seems to be almost pure silicone ... so very high temp, could not believe it survived 10,000 rpm for a few races. Basically it seemed to seal the ring so well that things were not getting enough oil ... so I guess ... when they say use a VERY thin film ... they are not kidding. |
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#17
09-28-2019, 09:55 AM
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Hylomar comes in a spray for head gaskets,they sell the gasket stuff in a tube.The reason I like it it is easy to clean up.Hard to find anymore.Tom
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#18
09-28-2019, 09:58 AM
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this is the one I use.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Valco-Hylom...rd!90814!US!-1 |
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#19
09-28-2019, 10:09 AM
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I use the right stuff on my aluminum valley pan, never a leak. To get it off i just slide a sheetrock knife razor in the corner, then a small srewdriver to hold that corner up, and go across the front and side with the razor. Once you do that you can pull off the valley pan easy.
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#20
09-28-2019, 04:59 PM
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We use the Abro grey 999, basically a low modulus silicone, seals very well, a bit too well on some items- I had to prise my valley cover off with a 2 ft crowbar the first time I used it! You can buy 'silicone eater' from builders mechants, just paint it on and it dissolves the sealer.
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