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#1
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4x heads on engine in car - pressed in stud replacement
Anyone have experience with installing screw-in studs with the heads on the engine and engine in car? Heads have machined bosses. (1973 4X)
In the meantime, has anyone had success with re-seating (driving back in) the pulled up stud (s)? What is best way to re-seat? Any recommended special tool? I'd hate to start on it with a ball peen hammer and break it. Tapping them back down is short term but an attempt to quiet down the valve train while I plan the screw-in replacement. (It's my summer driver) I put a straight edge across top of studs and yes, some are up a bit, causing rocker arm noise. Thanks for any input. Bill |
#2
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I have never done it with heads installed, nor would I. You WILL create metal shavings, and you will have to take insane precautions to keep the debris from entering the oil drain back holes. On top of that, you will get metallic cuttings in and around the rest of the components, and these cuttings will wash into the oil pan.
I'm not even sure you could tap the holes with the valves installed, or if you would even want to. I've only ever done it with heads removed, and valves/springs removed. Pull heads, remove valves/springs/retainers, tap for 1/2-13 threads (make sure to get straight alignment - I used a jig), and install ARP 290-7201 studs with 1/8" cut off the bottom. And save the irreparable damage to your back and your youth. I've done the helicoil thing, too. Not a fan. A 1/2-13 tap runs right in, and does the job. Use a starter tap, and then finish it with a bottom tap. Just go slow and don't break it off.
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"...ridge reamer and ring compressor? Do they have tools like that?" |
#3
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Thanks for the input. Yeah, taking them off is really the right way to do it. May be a winter job.....
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#4
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Interesting question, tho, and maybe others can chime in.
I cut 1/8" off the bottom of the ARP conversion studs. It worked great when combined with the pushrod guideplate so that the stud wouldn't bottom out in the hole. I wondered if it would be ok to stack a washer under the stud instead of cutting, and then just take up the rest of the difference with the rocker nut, possibly adding a washer under the rocker nut to get the right amount of set screw engagement. Thoughts?
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"...ridge reamer and ring compressor? Do they have tools like that?" |
#5
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It's a no go to do it with the heads in the boiler room on the motor!
If your running tall enough valve covers then one way around the issue at least for this Summer is to run poly locks instead of the stock rocker arm nut and then run a stud girdle which should add enough resistance to not have any other rocker studs pull up on you. Also if you know someone who can weld you tack weld the stud to the boss with the right welding rod and proceedure. TRW use to offer a hair oversized replacement stud which would work also if you can find any.
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Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
#6
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Quote:
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"...ridge reamer and ring compressor? Do they have tools like that?" |
#7
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Atleast you can still have the added plus of running the stud girdle once the heads have been fixed, no?
Or resell it after your done with it and it got you through this Season of driving needs!
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Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
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